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On my 2004 LX Sedan, pretty much all of the front suspension bushings are cracked and need replacement. Mechanics tried to say just my passenger side control arm will fix the issue, but when I took my car to a local tire shop that is cool with putting my car up on their rack and let me see everything, all the bushings look worn and cracking.

1) is it better to only R&R just the bushings alone and reuse the parts or just buy all new parts with bushings and just do a swap out?

2) I do a lot of driving due to my work, different cities and states, different road conditions, even unpaved sometimes. I'm not modifying my car, keeping it stocked for once, but will use what is better than OEM if it is better.
Should I use rubber or poly?

 
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Before I answer the first two questions, I'm curious at what stage of cracking the bushings are in. Any bushings on your car that haven't been replaced at some point are now 21 years old so cracked bushings are to be expected and, while not good for your car/handling, may be acceptable. Will replacing any/all old bushing make the car feel better? For sure, but it might now be completely necessary. However any that are tearing/torn will need to be replaced immediately, and is probably what your mechanic saw on that control arm (that or the structure of the arm is compromised by rust).

1. Depends on the integrity of the component housing each bushing. If the component isn't bent, broken, cracked, or beginning to rust away, you can just replace the bushing(s) in it. Probably more work if you're doing it yourself, but if you want to save some money go for it. If it's starting to rust, replace the whole chebang.
2. Rubber. If you ain't bout that racecar-on-the-street life, you'll hate the poly bushings for a daily, especially if you drive a lot for work or life.

 
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A full on LCA replacement would be, by far, the easiest route. A bit more money since you'd be buying a full assembly, but it's what, 3 bolts mounting the whole LCA on, plus some brake line mounting bolts? It's been a minute since I touched a D17 LCA. Oh, and the ball joint that slips into the LCA. I've definitely stripped the ball joint thread breaking that joint loose.

If the LCA itself is in good condition, and I can't imagine they wouldn't be, the bushings themselves would be cheaper than a whole LCA replacement, but pressing out those bushings can be a pain.

Lastly, rubber vs poly. For most people, rubber is fine. Poly tends to be "harsher" than rubber for everyday driving, but I was the type that actually likes feeling road vibrations (to an extent). I personally feel like it helps me react to the road faster. Then again, when I installed poly bushings in my 2002, I had a full suspension mods, the only exception is I left the front sway bar untouched. Poly tends to squeak a lot, too, so I tapped my LCAs and installed a zerk fitting so I could re-lube them with silicone grease at my leisure.


As I was writing allll of that, I realized I was writing it from the POV of a DIYer. For most people that would take it to a shop here's a quick and dirty breakdown
1) Full LCA replacement will be the "least" laborious (e.g. least cost for labor charges). Mechanic should be able to get her in the air, unbolt stuff, bolt it back together, call it a day. Part cost will be higher, but labor costs lower.
2) Bushing replacement will include the same labor as a full LCA replacement, but also the labor of pressing the old bushings out, and pressing the new ones in. Either way, the LCAs are coming off the car. Not much labor, but shops can justify extra labor cost for having to use extra equipment for that.
3) You're not into modding, so rubber/OE spec will work well for you. Poly for us gearheads that don't mind extra noise and vibration

For price reference, and I'm not looking at Honda OEM because, well, they're expensive af.
An LCA assembly (just one side) should be sub $100 per side. I'm a big fan of Moog aftermarket suspension parts, and those LCA assemblies are just under $70 per side on their website. Looking on Rockauto.com, each side will run you $40ish for Moog LCAs.
On Moog's website, both bushings for one side (looking at Moog only) will be about $70. Rock Auto is ~$25 for each side.
Now, the poly bushings, I forgot the going price for them, but a full set (both sides, both bushings) is only $75ish ($60 on Rock auto), but comes with increased NVH (noise/vibration/harshness).
Personally, if I were in your shoes and me being me, I'd grab a fresh pair of Moog LCA assemblies from Rock Auto and DIY install. I'm also cheap and lazy, but I also have the tools and means to DIY. In your case, I'd see if a shop would either a) price match part cost or B) let you bring in your own parts for them to install. In my experience with the latter, they'd only do it with the understanding that they can't warranty the part, only the labor.

 
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Sorry for responding so late, I got caught up with work.
I'm actually the second owner of the car, received it from my sister who bought it brand new from the dealership, used it as just a grocery getter and did all the maintenance from that dealership. The invoices I saw never had any suspension/alignment parts serviced or replaced, so definitely it's time. I normally do all of the work myself, but did use one shop sometimes until they went out of business. I found another good shop that is reasonable I go to now if necessary and they recommended those parts to be replaced. I recently needed new tires and when I asked for an alignment, they let me see my car up on their rack and definitely the passenger lower control arm bushing is torn and needs immediate replacement. I took advantage of that moment to inspect the rest and I can tell the rest is aged and weathered. No damage whatsoever to the parts luckily, but just the bushings are all needing replacement.

I am a gearhead and love drag racing, but this is my stock daily. The Nova I raced on the 1/4 mile I replaced the entire bushings you can think of a car has with Moog. For that car was understandable to have a tight stiff suspension and because of the Moog polyurethane bushings, I definitely felt more than using rubber.

So I'm thinking to continue to use OEM or close to with rubber on this car because of being a daily driver and I want comfort since im not going to modify for performance or racing, but just for street performance of daily driving.

I still wanted to get the question out there because I don't have much experience with imports as I do with domestics. I want to make sure and double check with anyone with more experience with this car.

 
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Thank you for your knowledgeable experience, everything you mentioned is like it came from my brain. I used Moog mainly on my racecar, a Nova and I know exactly how it felt. I am a DIYer, but with ASE training and certs. I still wanted to get someone else's opinion for a car I don't have a lot of training on, even though this car is very simple. I will be keeping it stock, but will use aftermarket parts that are better and last longer.

I'm from Southern California, but travel to Nevada, Arizona, New Mexico. I definitely want reliable and long lasting parts. I love using Rockauto for a lot of my parts, especially with all of their options of cheap to an expensive part. I will be looking for what I need. The shops here charge too much and I'll do my best to do the work myself, even alone.

 
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I have two front LCA in my shelf - just need to take to an shop to press new bushings. I went the new LCA route, swap in and have spares that I can put bushings on them at my leisure and swap in again. LCA's are cheap enough to do that. Also consider going to a scrap yrad that have a RSX and get the rear sway bar. Makes handling much better.