Rep Power: 0

Stuck on this one. Getting off the exit off the interstate I get some crazy acting brakes un till I get below 50. Got good hearings new ball joints new control arm with bushings new brake pads. I guess the only thing left is inner tie rods or struts. I'm I missing anything? Been searching and can't find much. Found something about brake pins I'll check tomorrow. Tia

 
Rep Power: 518

Shake while braking and shakes the steering wheel: Rotors.

Warped, runout, thickness variation, rust buildup on the hub flange, anything that causes the friction surfaces to be untrue.

 
Rep Power: 0

That's what I thought at first to. But no issues under 50. You know when you come to a stop and you have a wobble because your rotor bent you can feel it. I don't have that it's smooth. I have noticed a noise behind the glove box. Guess it wouldn't hurt to buy a couple rotors, its not like I'll never use them. Don't have a gauge here

Ezone do you ever get on the 7th gen on Facebook?

 
Rep Power: 150

My CRV would go crazz with brake shudder hitting them at 65+ coming down a huge mountain in WV. Started when car was less then a year old. It was the rotor casting. It had one spot about the size of your palm that looked different then rest on the passenger side. I could sand it off and it would go away for a month or so. Finally replace rotors and it never came back. However, I had checked ever component on car including indicating rotors for run out and measuring for taper.

It would show up going very slow also and applying very lightly on brake. You could fill a light drag and release. At 80, it would flap your eye ***** and walk you across the road. That time on the mountain gave me some white knuckles.
Interesting but the dealer had no clue and said brakes were not under warranty.
Service manual says to turn rotors on car but China after market ran dead true just like the OEM. Little run out can be handled by the floating caliper. Not out of parallel or different surface finishes.

 
Rep Power: 0

dam a rotor from oreilly's $35 rockauto $12.33 ill get both plus shipping for the price of one from oreilly"s

 
Rep Power: 518

The faster you go, the more noticeable the shake.
@slower speeds it's much less noticeable.
Very common.
No.

 
Rep Power: 257

i got an idea stop doing 80+ mph and slow the **** down.

 
Rep Power: 0

Hey goofball the speed limits out west are 75 80 mph hello. And look no profanity

 
Rep Power: 208

Rotors

 
Rep Power: 367

what do you mean violent? at first i thought it would kinda lock the wheels easily?

 
Rep Power: 0

Did ball joints, better, doing wheel bearings now.noticed right calipers are dragging more that the left

 
Rep Power: 518

I get on toll roads and expressways where everyone (ok, the majority anyway) goes 30+ over the posted limit....40+ if you're braver than the rest LOL

 
Rep Power: 0

85 on I -15 love it. Sure miss my old Chevy 1800 rpm at 80 with plenty more to spare

 
Rep Power: 367

again, define "violent braking" ...

 
Rep Power: 0

Have to test drive the new wheel bearings. And ball joints. It's definitely getting better. New Michelin too. Might be a tire. So when I exit and apply the brake it shakes bad. Until its at 50 then everything fine. No issues under 50 . new lower control arm last year with tranny swap. I hate to keep buy parts but everything I've replaced has been worn. It's has gotten better with the ball joints. Iwas in a wreck before I bought it. I have back problems so it takes more time to fix chit. But I'll get there. There is a rattle so maybe tie rod inner or strut. Did the wobble test and can't find anything loss. Going to have the tires rebalanced.

 
Rep Power: 518

Only shakes while braking---won't be a tire, stick to brake related stuff.

Rotors and hubs. Check runout. Check for rust. Remove rotors and inspect for rust buildup on the hubs and inside the rotor hat. It doesn't take much to have a huge effect.
Ever done construction? A 1/16" off of plumb at the bottom can make for a whole lot of lean by the time you get to the top of the building. Same goes for brakes, only we're talking just a few thousandths of an inch to make them hell.

Jack front end in the air and run the engine to let the front wheels spin free. Watch the rims for any wobble or signs that look like they are not spinning perfectly true and straight.
IF you have that,,,,,,Swap wheels side to side and see if it spins straight on the other side, and formerly good wheel now wobbles on the bad side. This would indicate a hub may be bent. (You said it was crashed, right?)

 
Rep Power: 0

Feels like inner tie rod. Now the wheel bearings and ball joints are new I can feel better. Loss right front wheel/tire wobble. Is there a spring in the inner tie rods. I can see a boot on them at rock auto. We swap out rotors next (wife's es2) sure am liking the cheap prices for parts on these. I live on a dirt road, hard on anything. How much of a bitch is it to do inner tie rodsżż sorry I'm not focused on the brakes. New pads. But there might be something there as well. As the right side did wear faster. Caliper.

 
Rep Power: 518

I missed the mention of rattle in the previous post, but I also thought you meant it passes the 'grab-tire-and-shake' checks?

No spring that I'm aware of in the tie rods.

 
Rep Power: 0

Yes did the wobble test. Discovering things as I go. Didn't find anything. But when I took it apart the ball joints and wheel bearings where just a little lose, not bad tho. It's alot better already. Ordered the new tie rods so next weekend it have new innrrs and outters. Do I need the stupid tool. I gotta say these cars are easy to work on. Pressed the bearings on with a c clamp. Easy pleasey

 
Rep Power: 518

What tool?
And .... why does it have to fail an IQ test?



It will need a wheel alignment after install.