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i rebuild it myself. Couldn't pay for that as i just had my 07 scion wrecked so i couldn't afford some better at the moment.i did a compression test and i was getting read like between 75psi and 80 on all of them..the car starts fine but its just the rough idling, sureg idling and the IAT issues and maybe because of these issues,I'm burn more gas.cant wait to have the issues solve mon.
Presuming the compression test was done correctly and the gauge is accurate 75-80 is way too low, the minimum spec is 135 and a good engine will be well above that. If the compression was really that low I don't know that it would even start.
Presuming the compression test was done correctly and the gauge is accurate 75-80 is way too low, the minimum spec is 135. If the compression was really that low I don't know that it would even start.
Oh, that is good then. No need to replace the engine or worry about the rings
the first time i took the car to the dealer when i was having my overheating issue,the dealer said theres was no head gasket issue and i had to do some research and realized that my head gasket was blown and thats how i work on it myself.the very first time messing with a car engine on my own as well. And replace the bearings in the tranny to but i manage to get it done with self confidence.i couldn't pay to do all those work.thanks to youtube and this forum.you guys Mostly helpful.
the first time i took the car to the dealer when i was having my overheating issue,the dealer said theres was no head gasket issue and i had to do some research and realized that my head gasket was blown and thats how i work on it myself.the very first time messing with a car engine on my own as well. And replace the bearings in the tranny to but i manage to get it done with self confidence.i couldn't pay to do all those work.thanks to youtube and this forum.you guys Mostly helpful.
i might just go ahead and spend time and make me a smoke pan and do a smoke test just to make sure theres no vacuum leakes for sure. What you think about the evap canister? It causes vibrations and rough idling when they go bad too. I read anout on line but i dont want to invest in too much part just yet.i spent $400 On idle air control valve at the dealer and it didn't solve my problem.i was mad.
i might just go ahead and spend time and make me a smoke pan and do a smoke test just to make sure theres no vacuum leakes for sure. What you think about the evap canister? It causes vibrations and rough idling when they go bad too. I read anout on line but i dont want to invest in too much part just yet.i spent $400 On idle air control valve at the dealer and it didn't solve my problem.i was mad.
It is possible that the EVAP purge solenoid on the throttle body is stuck open and allowing too much flow. That should set a code, but don't rule it out as a possibility. You can disconnect and plug that off too and see if it makes any difference, it's easy enough to try. Do you hear any hissing noises around the engine like air is getting sucked in?
It is possible that the EVAP purge solenoid on the throttle body is stuck open and allowing too much flow. That should set a code, but don't rule it out as a possibility. You can disconnect and plug that off too and see if it makes any difference, it's easy enough to try. Do you hear any hissing noises around the engine like air is getting sucked in?
no i dont hear any issing. But when i put my finger over the idle air valve inside the throttle body it should suck hard on my finger or stall but I'm not feeling anything like that.
no i dont hear any issing. But when i put my finger over the idle air valve inside the throttle body it should suck hard on my finger or stall but I'm not feeling anything like that.
You definitely have a pretty large vacuum leak then, the engine must be getting air from somewhere or it would die out. I do a similar test putting my hand over the throttle body while its running. The engine should immediately die out and it should hold a vacuum for a while, if it doesn't its getting air from somewhere else.
You definitely have a pretty large vacuum leak then, the engine must be getting air from somewhere or it would die out. I do a similar test putting my hand over the throttle body while its running. The engine should immediately die out and it should hold a vacuum for a while, if it doesn't its getting air from somewhere else.
there's a different though. If i put my hand over the throttle body it immediately suck in my hand and stalled out but if i put my finger over the hole inside the throttle body for idle air valve it doesn't do that though. I'm wondering if thats normal.
there's a different though. If i put my hand over the throttle body it immediately suck in my hand and stalled out but if i put my finger over the hole inside the throttle body for idle air valve it doesn't do that though. I'm wondering if thats normal.
Once the engine stalls does it hold a vacuum or does it quickly lose the vacuum? The only reason covering the IACV hole would be different than covering the throttle body is that a little air can get around the throttle plate even when its closed, but not enough to keep it running by itself from my experience. Does the throttle close all the way?
Once the engine stalls does it hold a vacuum or does it quickly lose the vacuum? The only reason covering the IACV hole would be different than covering the throttle body is that a little air can get around the throttle plate even when its closed, but not enough to keep it running by itself from my experience. Does the throttle close all the way?
yes, the butterfly fully closed and the throttle bod is clean all over inside. The evap solenoid should suck only one way ,right?
Yes, the EVAP solenoid should only pull air into the intake manifold, and it should not suck with the electrical connector unplugged.
ok understood.alright mon.i will do some a smoke, evap test like you explain, brake booster hose test and let you know soon. I will do the brake booster hose and the evap solenoid tomorrow.
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Re: IAT code P0113
Originally Posted by D17VTECPOWER
Code P0113 will not be caused by a vacuum leak, IACV, PCV valve, etc. There are 3 things that can cause it: A bad IAT sensor, bad wiring or connections, or a bad ECU. Since you replaced the sensor and the problem is still there, we can reasonably assume the problem isn't the sensor.
That leaves wiring and ECU. Does the plug fit in the IAT sensor tightly? Is there any corrosion in the plug? I presume you visually inspected the IAT wiring for damage? ECUs very rarely fail so if I had to bet I would bet on the problem being either a bad connection at the plug or damaged wiring. Do you have a scanner that will show live data like intake air temp and sensor voltage?
OP posted another similar thread and told him to check harness for visible damage, measure voltage and continuity at IACV and IAT harness connectors, and mentioned the possibility of a failed ECU. He doesn't seem to want to test anything and would rather slap parts on it in hopes a fix. OP please always test first as much as possible and then replace parts if need be. You'll learn more, save money, and wont get scolded by dicks like me.
OP posted another similar thread and told him to check harness for visible damage, measure voltage and continuity at IACV and IAT harness connectors, and mentioned the possibility of a failed ECU. He doesn't seem to want to test anything and would rather slap parts on it in hopes a fix. OP please always test first as much as possible and then replace parts if need be. You'll learn more, save money, and wont get scolded by dicks like me.
i already test the IAT connection and unplugged the IACV while the vehicle is running and it makes the engine struggled so that tells me it getting sufficient current to it the sensor. Next i will check the evap canister solenoid today and do another smoke test.
i already test the IAT connection and unplugged the IACV while the vehicle is running and it makes the engine struggled so that tells me it getting sufficient current to it the sensor. Next i will check the evap canister solenoid today and do another smoke test.
im not intended to put lots of money into it like i did,spent $400 buyin IACV and nothing changes.
Yes, the EVAP solenoid should only pull air into the intake manifold, and it should not suck with the electrical connector unplugged.
so i just done two tests that you told me to do. The evap canister solenoid. I started the car and pulled the hose hose and put my finger over the hose, as you see in tje pic where I'm pointing at
And it was sucking in on my finger so that tells me that its work as it should. Next one i tried,not sure the name of it but i think they work together as one, evap canister,Evap solenoid and the other one where I'm touching with the socket extension
The one I'm touching with the socket extension, i unplugged it and immediately the car was shutting down so i know that one is working well also.next i Will do the third smoke test. Not sure how to test the Evap canister.
so i just done two tests that you told me to do. The evap canister solenoid. I started the car and pulled the hose hose and put my finger over the hose, as you see in tje pic where I'm pointing at
And it was sucking in on my finger so that tells me that its work as it should. Next one i tried,not sure the name of it but i think they work together as one, evap canister,Evap solenoid and the other one where I'm touching with the socket extension
The one I'm touching with the socket extension, i unplugged it and immediately the car was shutting down so i know that one is working well also.next i Will do the third smoke test. Not sure how to test the Evap canister.
I forgot that you asked if i turn intake manifold gasket wrong? I didn't turned it wrong and i removed the intake manifold about a month ago just rechecking on things and i carefully inspected the way it turns and how it should lign up and it was in the correct order.
I forgot that you asked if i turn intake manifold gasket wrong? I didn't turned it wrong and i removed the intake manifold about a month ago just rechecking on things and i carefully inspected the way it turns and how it should lign up and it was in the correct order.
Ok. Did the idle normalize when you plugged off the EVAP solenoid with your finger? Also, that thing you were pointing at with your socket extension is called a MAP sensor, basically it tells the ECU how much of a vacuum is in the intake manifold so it knows how much air is going through the engine, it needs to know this so it knows how much fuel to inject. It doesn't really have anything to do with the EVAP system. Have you tried disconnecting and plugging off the brake booster hose yet?
Ok. Did the idle normalize when you plugged off the EVAP solenoid with your finger? Also, that thing you were pointing at with your socket extension is called a MAP sensor, basically it tells the ECU how much of a vacuum is in the intake manifold so it knows how much air is going through the engine, it needs to know this so it knows how much fuel to inject. It doesn't really have anything to do with the EVAP system. Have you tried disconnecting and plugging off the brake booster hose yet?
When i putvny finger over the evap solenoid the idle didn't change but it suck the hell from my finger and click click though. Yes,i unplugged the brake booster hose,before i unplugged it i pinched it with the pliers and the engine was about to stall out.
Yes,i unplugged the brake booster hose,before i unplugged it i pinched it with the pliers and the engine was about to stall out.
I think you found your issue. Do you mean the engine was about to stall out when you pinched the brake booster hose with your pliers? Pinching the brake booster hose should have no effect on the idle unless the booster has a leak.
I think you found your issue. Do you mean the engine was about to stall out when you pinched the brake booster hose with your pliers? Pinching the brake booster hose should have no effect on the idle unless the booster has a leak.
oh really? I thought thats normal if its stalled out by pinching it because the passage is blocked off. So if i have a leake like you are assuming i might have,why when i did all the tests with brake cleaner and soap water i didn't get any result. Strange.!
oh really? I thought thats normal if its stalled out by pinching it because the passage is blocked off. So if i have a leake like you are assuming i might have,why when i did all the tests with brake cleaner and soap water i didn't get any result. Strange.!
You won't find a brake booster leak with smoke, the hose has a one way valve in it that won't allow air (or smoke) into the booster. The reason it is stalling out when you correct the problem by pinching the line off is because the ECU has the IACV closed off trying to compensate for the leak since air is entering through the booster when it shouldn't be. Try this. Disconnect the vacuum line from the brake booster, plug it off with a bolt or something, clear the codes so the ECU forgets about the leak, start the engine, and see if it runs correctly and if the code comes back. If it does you know for certain the booster is the problem. As you know you will have almost no brakes without the booster connected so don't try driving it though!
Last edited by D17VTECPOWER; May 13, 2020 at 01:15 PM.
[QUOTE=D17VTECPOWER;4775769]You won't find a brake booster leak with smoke, the hose has a one way valve in it that won't allow air (or smoke) into the booster. The reason it is stalling out when you correct the problem by pinching the line off is because the ECU has the IACV closed off trying to compensate for the leak since air is entering through the booster when it shouldn't be. Try this. Disconnect the vacuum line from the brake booster, plug it off with a bolt or something, clear the codes so the ECU forgets about the leak, start the engine, and see if it runs correctly and if the code comes back. As you know you will have almost no brakes without the booster connected so don't try driving it though
