Tracecross30

[QUOTE=D17VTECPOWER;4775789] i can
adjusted them 0.009 intake and 0.0010 exhaust. The plugs are new, dealers type

D17VTECPOWER

iTrader: (1)

[QUOTE=Tracecross30;4775790]What year is this car?

Tracecross30

[QUOTE=D17VTECPOWER;4775791]my bad.its 02 civic ex vtec.1.7L manual.

D17VTECPOWER

iTrader: (1)

[QUOTE=Tracecross30;4775793]What are your short and long term fuel trims while it is vibrating at idle?

If that was my car I would replace the upstream o2 sensor as preventative maintenance if it is still original because they wear out over time and start to respond slower and lose accuracy, causing the computer to inject too little or too much fuel. Unlike my 05 which uses an air fuel ratio sensor, an o2 sensor for your 2002 isn't very expensive. I would only use a Denso sensor since they made the OEM sensor, you would need part number 234-4122. That sensor is less than $30 on Amazon if you choose to replace it.

Tracecross30

[QUOTE=D17VTECPOWER;4775794]regular gas mileage are 27 city, 33 hwy and 30 combined. But for now I'm not sure bur i know its not giving me any of the above. I replaced the 02 sensors last year. Fuel filter, fuel pump and injectors too.

D17VTECPOWER

iTrader: (1)

[QUOTE=Tracecross30;4775795]What are your short and long term fuel trims?

Tracecross30

[QUOTE=D17VTECPOWER;4775796]27 highway and 33 city.

D17VTECPOWER

iTrader: (1)

[QUOTE=Tracecross30;4775797]What I meant is on the scanner. To put it simply, short and long term fuel trims are basically the deviation from the normal amount of fuel delivery. For example, if the short term fuel trim is 10 that means the ECU is adding 10% more fuel than normal and if it's -10 that means it's removing 10% of the expected amount of fuel. This shows whether the engine is running rich (too much fuel) or lean (not enough fuel). The IAT sensor issue does need to be fixed, but it probably isn't causing a huge decrease in gas mileage by itself. A vacuum leak could though, hopefully your MPG improves once you change the brake booster.

Tracecross30

[QUOTE=D17VTECPOWER;4775798]ok i didn't understand what u just explain. But i hope it fix the fuel consumption to. The brake booster from the automatic can work on the manual transmission?

D17VTECPOWER

iTrader: (1)

[QUOTE=Tracecross30;4775799]Yup https://www.hondapartsnow.com/genuin...9-s5d-a00.html

Tracecross30

[QUOTE=D17VTECPOWER;4775801]price not bad but i cant afford that right now. I just have do junkyard for now i spend lots of money on this car with all the headache its giving me.check this outFuel pump
Fuel filter
Spark plugs
Four engine and transmission mounts
Shocks
Struts
2 ball joints
4 sway bar links
Head gasket
Valve cover gasket
Wear upper control arms
Front lower control arms
2 tie rid ends
Brake pads,back and front
16 rings
32 valve stem seals
$200.00 for skimming engine head
1 power steering pump belt
Camshaft sensor
Crankshaft sensor
Idle air control valve $400
Thermostat
Intake air temperature sensor
Throttle boddy position sensor
Fuel injecters
Pcv valve
Coolant temperature sensor
Righ side CV Axle
Cabin air filter
both o2 sensors
junkyard brake booster

D17VTECPOWER

iTrader: (1)

[QUOTE=Tracecross30;4775802]I wouldn't buy it from Honda, I just posted the link you could see the compatibility. Whenever I tell someone something will or won't work I always like to post my source to cut down on any chance of arguments.

Those are a lot of parts, I'm sorry you had so much trouble. What engine mounts did you get? Crappy or stiff mounts could easily explain the vibration you are feeling at idle.

Tracecross30

[QUOTE=D17VTECPOWER;4775803]Ok.i know that website. I bout the mounts from 1A auto.com. yeah,they might causing the vibrations fir sure.its not too hard now though.

Tracecross30

[QUOTE=D17VTECPOWER;4775803]i will try Amazon or Rock Auto for brake booster.

Tracecross30

[QUOTE=Tracecross30;4775805]So installed a different brake booster ,start the car and pinched the hose just to see what will happen,well it didn't stalled out like it did yesterday. the RPM didn't as normal as it suppose to but it goes down quicker now. I'm thinking if the p0113 code for the open circuit will have some effect on the RPM operate?i will have to spend on hours or so to search the wire for damage. Also, before i installed this booster, the RPM used to go higher when the fan comes on when idling but now i dont see that anymore. Thanks a lot guys..i forgot,i put in some gas so i will see how it goes. If it still burns gas i will want to think its the p0113 causing it. And i dont see the p1505 code either but I'm watching ilout for it to show anyway.

D17VTECPOWER

iTrader: (1)

[QUOTE=Tracecross30;4775817]Cool. The IAT code may have a little effect on the way it runs, but it most likely won't be dramatic. It's a good place to start though since you know it's a problem and it shouldn't be too hard to fix. When did you start getting that code? Maybe you damaged some wiring when you did the head gasket. You may need to open up the wiring harness and trace the wires back to the ECU if there are no visible signs of damage.

Tracecross30

[QUOTE=D17VTECPOWER;4775818]ok.i. started getting the code about the same time i started getting the p1505 code or little after that. I might just get the same gauge wire and replace the whole length from the sensor to where it start to go through the hole behind the ECU . i found out that there is a seal between brake booster and the iron thing that holds the brake fluid and it was missing,it might drop off when i pulled it from the junkyard and the one that was on mine returned to the junkyard without realizing its on there.

D17VTECPOWER

iTrader: (1)

[QUOTE=Tracecross30;4775826]Replacing the wiring would be a good bet, if that doesn't fix it then you know you have an ECU problem. Just make sure you get good connections on both ends. I would solder the wires and use water tight heat shrink, but water tight butt connectors will also do the job if used correctly. Don't use the regular butt connectors, they aren't water tight and water will get into them and cause corrosion over time.

Tracecross30

[QUOTE=D17VTECPOWER;4775827][QUOTE=Tracecross30;4775826]
Replacing the wiring would be a good bet, if that doesn't fix it then you know you have an ECU problem. Just make sure you get good connections on both ends. I would solder the wires and use water tight heat shrink, but water tight butt connectors will also do the job if used correctly. Don't use the regular butt connectors, they aren't water tight and water will get into them and cause corrosion over time.[/QUOTe

Yeah, these are the once i will be using. I have and ECU so i will use it if nothing changes.it might need to be flash before it can be use

D17VTECPOWER

iTrader: (1)

[QUOTE=Tracecross30;4775829][QUOTE=D17VTECPOWER;4775827]Don't you have an ECU with a matching key and ignition cylinder? If so you don't need a flash, just change the ignition cylinder and ECU it should start. Obviously not ideal to have 2 keys, but it will work fine for testing and if the ECU is the problem you can get it flashed. Whether you would rather start with rewiring the sensor or changing the ECU is up to you.

Tracecross30

[QUOTE=D17VTECPOWER;4775830][QUOTE=Tracecross30;4775829]I already swapped the ECU a couple days ago but it wouldn't start. But the keys turns pretty fine and the engine turned over but wont start. It may need to be flashed.

D17VTECPOWER

iTrader: (1)

[QUOTE=Tracecross30;4775832][QUOTE=D17VTECPOWER;4775830]Did you swap the ignition cylinder too? It won't start if you just change the ECU without having it flashed. Was the green key light flashing when it wouldn't start?

Tracecross30

[QUOTE=D17VTECPOWER;4775833][QUOTE=Tracecross30;4775832]Yes,i changed both of them. Yes the light was flashing.

D17VTECPOWER

iTrader: (1)

[QUOTE=Tracecross30;4775835][QUOTE=D17VTECPOWER;4775833]The key light flashing means that the immobilizer in the ECU has disabled the spark and the fuel because the ECU, immobilizer, and key aren't matched, basically it thinks someone is trying to steal the car. They must have sold you mismatched or defective parts then.

Tracecross30

[QUOTE=D17VTECPOWER;4775836][QUOTE=Tracecross30;4775835]Ok. So if i flash it will it work with that key i got with it or with my key I'm using with my computer.

D17VTECPOWER

iTrader: (1)

[QUOTE=Tracecross30;4775837][QUOTE=D17VTECPOWER;4775836]Well that's how it's supposed to work, but it didn't work that way for me. I would suggest calling local locksmiths as a lot of them will flash it for much less than the dealer charges and hopefully have a guarantee that if they can't flash it they won't charge you. Ask them what their guarantee is before hiring them.
When I needed to change my 05's ECU I bought a junkyard ECU and took my car to a local Honda dealer and gave them the new/used ECU to flash and they said they weren't able to flash it and they didn't know why so they put the old ECU back in and said if I bring them another ECU they will try again for free. I brought them another ECU and they weren't able to flash that one either, so I was just out the $130 or whatever. I ended up getting a JDM ECU with no immobilizer and problem solved. I still don't know why it wouldn't flash, maybe the dealer was incompetent or trying to rip me off.

Tracecross30

[QUOTE=D17VTECPOWER;4775838][QUOTE=Tracecross30;4775837]Ok. I will change the mail connection for the IAT and get a wire of the Same gauge and splice them. So, where did you got your JDM ECU from anyway?

I have this idea, its possible to Reprogram my ECU?

D17VTECPOWER

iTrader: (1)

[QUOTE=Tracecross30;4775840][QUOTE=D17VTECPOWER;4775838]I got a couple on eBay for between $15 and $19 shipped, I got one with my JDM engine, I got one with my JDM wiring harness, and I got one with my JDM trans. I have a bunch of them. They are all from Honda Streams with the exception of one which is from an Edix, all with D17 VTEC engines. JDM 7th gen Civic ECUs are rare here in America for some reason, but the Stream ECUs are easy to get. I had a whole thread on this with lots of good info but a genius moderator deleted it.

Unfortunately these ECUs are not programmable, so it's not possible to do any tuning. The only programming that can be done is the immobilizer and you would need a very expensive scanner to do this. There are some cheap programmers on eBay and such like this one but I have no idea if they work, my guess is probably not. http://www.carkeysale.com/wholesale/...rogrammer.html

Colin42

Or you can just bypass the fuel pump relay for testing purposes

BrotatoChip

Exactly. Leave the original ignition switch in, install replacement PCM, jump the fuel pump relay. Green key in cluster will still flash but the car will start. If the new PCM works drive it to Honda and have them program the keys then remove the relay jumper.