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Should be okay. After installing the new IACV it may have effected how the ECU processes the info so hopefully a reset/relearn coordinates both the iacv and ecu.
ok. I also keep getting this P0113 code for IAT Sensor for some time now and replace the sensor twice now but I'm still having the code some how and i think because of the code ,the car burn more gas than it should. I bought this Signal Tracker. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PJN1PNT/ref=cm_sw_r_apa_i_gTRTEbN0ACK5A
from Amazon to trace for any open circuit on the any of the wires. I will leave a post if anything changes but in the meantime, let me know what you think.
Last edited by Tracecross30; May 9, 2020 at 09:32 AM.
Reason: More information
check the wires from the sensor as far back as you can, might be rubbing and worn trough or grounding out?
must think its running cooler air if its adding more fuel
Are the harness connectors the exact same fitment for both the IACV and the IAT? Not usually a 7th gen or stock engine issue but people who modded their 5th or 6th gen engines would occasionally mix the two harness leads and have issues with the iacv and iat you have described.
Are the harness connectors the exact same fitment for both the IACV and the IAT? Not usually a 7th gen or stock engine issue but people who modded their 5th or 6th gen engines would occasionally mix the two harness leads and have issues with the iacv and iat you have described.
there are no mods done to this car except for intake housing that they put on but i replaced it for OEM intake so otherwise, everything in its stock stage.
Ifs its not Idle air valve/ pcv valve,whats it then? P1505
To all you guys that were giving me clues to this issue, I'm grateful but i still having the issue after spend $400 on IAC valve that wasn't even need to solve my problem. After installed the new dealer idle air control valve, the code went away for 2 days and show up again. The dealer did a vacuum leave test and said they didn't find any leaks. They want to charge me $180 to replace the pcv valve,which they was just replacing it just start from there but not sure if that would fix the issue. The pcv valve thats on there is a dealer type i bought from them less than 3 months and its not the first one i put on there. I inspected the pcv valv hose and no signs of damage, i sprayed brake parts cleaner around the throttle,intake area, vacuum hoses and the pcv area and no change in idling fron the engine. The intake gasket and exhaust manifold gasket including the throttle body gasket are brand new.what hell cood causing the issue?
Code P0113 will not be caused by a vacuum leak, IACV, PCV valve, etc. There are 3 things that can cause it: A bad IAT sensor, bad wiring or connections, or a bad ECU. Since you replaced the sensor and the problem is still there, we can reasonably assume the problem isn't the sensor.
That leaves wiring and ECU. Does the plug fit in the IAT sensor tightly? Is there any corrosion in the plug? I presume you visually inspected the IAT wiring for damage? ECUs very rarely fail so if I had to bet I would bet on the problem being either a bad connection at the plug or damaged wiring. Do you have a scanner that will show live data like intake air temp and sensor voltage?
Have you tried bleeding the coolant to make sure there's no air in the system? Pop off the cap, let it idle, top off with coolant if needed and see if the idle goes back to normal.
I'm having the same rough idle, gas burning and a little surge idle like i was always complain about. I replaced the idle air control valve a few times but some how the problem still there . it always giving me this p1505 code for pcv valve air leakage and i replaced the pcv valve even with the dealer pcv valve and I'm still having the issue. I sprayed brak cleaning around the intake areas,throttle body,the brake booster hoses and nothing changes. I daw some little crocks on one of the bottom hose that goes to the idle air control valve but I'm wondering if that could cause any kind of vacuum leakes even though its coolant inside of it. Could it be the clamps on the pcv valve hose not tight enough and sucking air through those ends? I dont know what else to do after i done so much and even brought the car to a shop and they didn't find any vacuum leaks and also the dealer didn't find any either the same way they didn't find that my head gasket was blown either but it was blown..
Code P0113 will not be caused by a vacuum leak, IACV, PCV valve, etc. There are 3 things that can cause it: A bad IAT sensor, bad wiring or connections, or a bad ECU. Since you replaced the sensor and the problem is still there, we can reasonably assume the problem isn't the sensor.
That leaves wiring and ECU. Does the plug fit in the IAT sensor tightly? Is there any corrosion in the plug? I presume you visually inspected the IAT wiring for damage? ECUs very rarely fail so if I had to bet I would bet on the problem being either a bad connection at the plug or damaged wiring. Do you have a scanner that will show live data like intake air temp and sensor voltage?
i have an autel scanner. I'm not sure if it shows the ratio on the reading. Here is a pic of it though.
yes the plugs is tightly attached to the IAT Sensor. I cleaned. The connection with electrical cleaner and put electrical grease on it also.i inspected the wiring yesterday as far as from the sensor to the other end of the engine where the coolant hoses are. But i didn't find any damage. I might cut off the connecter and replace it but not sure if the dealer got those.
Last edited by Tracecross30; May 10, 2020 at 11:12 PM.
Reason: More information
for some reason the system wont let me upload the picture of the scanner.
Looks like that scanner can read live data. See what temp the IAT is reading after the car sits overnight before you start it, it should read within a few degrees of ambient temp. If it does, start it up and wiggle the IAT sensor wiring and connector while you watch the reading on the scanner.
Looks like that scanner can read live data. See what temp the IAT is reading after the car sits overnight before you start it, it should read within a few degrees of ambient temp. If it does, start it up and wiggle the IAT sensor wiring and connector while you watch the reading on the scanner.
ok. I dont know much about some things on scanners so i wouldn't know exactly where to go and whats the reading i should look for on the scanner. I watch video on YouTube where it shows 5v on the multi meter so is that what i will get on the scanner also?
ok. I dont know much about some things on scanners so i wouldn't know exactly where to go and whats the reading i should look for on the scanner. I watch video on YouTube where it shows 5v on the multi meter so is that what i will get on the scanner also?
Here's a Youtube video so you can see how to get to live data, skip to 14:28. What you are looking for in live data is "IAT".
Here's a Youtube video so you can see how to get to live data, skip to 14:28. What you are looking for in live data is "IAT". https://youtu.be/eb5_E5bk4Ms?t=868
so i did what you said i should do. I connected my scanner and go to live data while the engine is running and the result for the IAT Sensor was 79 °Fat first and tgen it move to 84 °F afterwards. The sparkadv i dont know whats that for but I'm assuming its or the plugs. I was looking at motion wave form of data thats shows lines going up and down. The lines wasn't stable either. Some lower than some. I will take pics of that later after leaving work so u can see.
Why can anyone upload videos from their phones on this site? It woulb be better if i can show the vide of what the Sparkadv was showing me on the scanner.
so i did what you said i should do. I connected my scanner and go to live data while the engine is running and the result for the IAT Sensor was 79 °Fat first and tgen it move to 84 °F afterwards. The sparkadv i dont know whats that for but I'm assuming its or the plugs. I was looking at motion wave form of data thats shows lines going up and down. The lines wasn't stable either. Some lower than some. I will take pics of that later after leaving work so u can see.
Why can anyone upload videos from their phones on this site? It woulb be better if i can show the vide of what the Sparkadv was showing me on the scanner.
As long as the ambient temp was also somewhere around 79 degrees when you started it that looks alright. Now wiggle the plug and the wiring for the sensor while watching the temp reading and see if you can get it to change, if you can that indicates a problem with the wiring. Also, look in the sensor's plug to make sure its in good condition with no corrosion, that could cause this issue too. Since the sensor seems to be reading correctly, my guess is that there is a wiring or connection problem that is causing the sensor to randomly lose its signal. The ECU will set a code if it loses the sensor's signal even just for a second, so a loose connection or damaged wiring could definitely cause this.
What you are seeing with the spark advance is probably normal. My spark advance moves around too, it may even read negative at idle. Basically that's a reading of how many degrees of crankshaft rotation before the piston reaches the top of the cylinder the ECU is firing the spark plugs at. The ECU is always reading sensor data and optimizing things based on temps, fuel trims, RPM, load, etc, so don't expect it to read the same at all times because its not going to.
As long as the ambient temp was also somewhere around 79 degrees when you started it that looks alright. Now wiggle the plug and the wiring for the sensor while watching the temp reading and see if you can get it to change, if you can that indicates a problem with the wiring. Also, look in the sensor's plug to make sure its in good condition with no corrosion, that could cause this issue too. Since the sensor seems to be reading correctly, my guess is that there is a wiring or connection problem that is causing the sensor to randomly lose its signal. The ECU will set a code if it loses the sensor's signal even just for a second, so a loose connection or damaged wiring could definitely cause this.
What you are seeing with the spark advance is probably normal. My spark advance moves around too, it may even read negative at idle. Basically that's a reading of how many degrees of crankshaft rotation before the piston reaches the top of the cylinder the ECU is firing the spark plugs at. The ECU is always reading sensor data and optimizing things based on temps, fuel trims, RPM, load, etc, so don't expect it to read the same at all times because its not going to.
ok. I wiggled the wire just behind the sensor while looking at the scanner but it didn't make any changes.
I might have to trace further on the wiring for any signs of damage.
ok. I wiggled the wire just behind the sensor while looking at the scanner but it didn't make any changes.
I might have to trace further on the wiring for any signs of damage.
Yeah it sounds like you will need to, at this point it's either the wiring or the ECU and a wiring problem is much more likely than an ECU problem. Check anywhere where the wiring harness is close to anything that could rub through it or damage it like metal brackets and such. Make sure no wiring is pinched under bolts or other components too.
Yeah it sounds like you will need to, at this point it's either the wiring or the ECU and a wiring problem is much more likely than an ECU problem. Check anywhere where the wiring harness is close to anything that could rub through it or damage it like metal brackets and such. Make sure no wiring is pinched under bolts or other components too.
yeah i will do that. Its not rubbing against aby metal but i will double check.
yeah i will do that. Its not rubbing against aby metal but i will double check.
if the pcv valve installed without the washer will it send off the p1505 code? I didn't know it should install with a washer because i didn't get one from the dealer when i bought it. I was watching a video and saw it installed with a washer.
if the pcv valve installed without the washer will it send off the p1505 code? I didn't know it should install with a washer because i didn't get one from the dealer when i bought it. I was watching a video and saw it installed with a washer.
I didn't even know that these cars could set that code, but the definition of that code is "Positive Crankcase Ventilation Air Leakage" so yeah I suppose not having the sealing washer could cause that if air is leaking around the valve. Just get a washer and install it, no point in looking for a problem while ignoring a problem you know exists, especially when it is so easy and cheap to fix.
Actually I suppose any vacuum leak could cause that code since the ECU would have no way of knowing if the extra air is coming from the PCV valve or anywhere else, it just knows that more air is entering the engine than what it expects. If you still have that code after installing a sealing washer check for vacuum leaks, these cars have plastic intake manifolds and mine cracked years ago, it was causing issues with the way it ran but I don't remember what codes it set, if any.
I didn't even know that these cars could set that code, but the definition of that code is "Positive Crankcase Ventilation Air Leakage" so yeah I suppose not having the sealing washer could cause that if air is leaking around the valve. Just get a washer and install it, no point in looking for a problem while ignoring a problem you know exists, especially when it is so easy and cheap to fix.
Actually I suppose any vacuum leak could cause that code since the ECU would have no way of knowing if the extra air is coming from the PCV valve or anywhere else, it just knows that more air is entering the engine than what it expects. If you still have that code after installing a sealing washer check for vacuum leaks, these cars have plastic intake manifolds and mine cracked years ago, it was causing issues with the way it ran but I don't remember what codes it set, if any.
thanks for athe information. I sprayed brake cleaner around the manifold but i didn't get any different while the vehicle was idling..these civics are some pain to deal with when they start to acting up.
thanks for athe information. I sprayed brake cleaner around the manifold but i didn't get any different while the vehicle was idling..these civics are some pain to deal with when they start to acting up.
so i changed lower hose on the idle air control valve that goes to coolant line from the left side of the engine, it have cracks on it so i thought it would cause problems that related to my issue I'm having now and put a washer on the pcv valve but the issue still remains the same. I even sprayed soap water around the vacuum hoses but nothing.i will do a smoke test in a few days to see whats going on.
thanks for athe information. I sprayed brake cleaner around the manifold but i didn't get any different while the vehicle was idling..these civics are some pain to deal with when they start to acting up.
They are a pain when they have a problem, but most cars are way worse than these to fix. I used to think the same thing until I realized how many cars were waaaay worse, then I realized how simple and easy these cars really are.
