Originally Posted by D17VTECPOWER

I got a couple on eBay for between $15 and $19 shipped, I got one with my JDM engine, I got one with my JDM wiring harness, and I got one with my JDM trans. I have a bunch of them. They are all from Honda Streams with the exception of one which is from an Edix, all with D17 VTEC engines. JDM 7th gen Civic ECUs are rare here in America for some reason, but the Stream ECUs are easy to get. I had a whole thread on this with lots of good info but a genius moderator deleted it.

Unfortunately these ECUs are not programmable, so it's not possible to do any tuning. The only programming that can be done is the immobilizer and you would need a very expensive scanner to do this. There are some cheap programmers on eBay and such like this one but I have no idea if they work, my guess is probably not. http://www.carkeysale.com/wholesale/...rogrammer.html

Originally Posted by BrotatoChip

Exactly. Leave the original ignition switch in, install replacement PCM, jump the fuel pump relay. Green key in cluster will still flash but the car will start. If the new PCM works drive it to Honda and have them program the keys then remove the relay jumper.

Originally Posted by D17VTECPOWER

No it will not start, I have tried that. The ECU won't fire the injectors or coils either if it isn't flashed, it's not just the fuel pump it cuts off.

Originally Posted by Tracecross30

just need to change the wire and connection for IAT p0113 and see what going to happen.

Originally Posted by BrotatoChip

I don't think that's correct. My understanding has always been the immobilizer only controls the fuel pump. I have told a couple how to bypass the immobilizer by jumping the fuel pump relay and never heard anything back. I'm assuming that means it worked.

My keys aren't programmed into my ECM at the moment but I disabled the immobilizer in Kpro. I can re-enable the immobilizer, jump the fuel pump relay, and verify the car still starts tonight if no one knows for certain.

Originally Posted by D17VTECPOWER

I wish it was that simple, but its not. Unless something changed between 01 and 05, which I highly doubt, the ECU cuts off the injector pulse as well as the spark, I have tested it. Same with the JDM D17 ECU I have with an immobilizer. I can't say first hand whether that works for the older Civics, but I know it didn't work with my 05. I believe it says right in the owners manual that the immobilizer disables the fuel and spark, but its been a while so I might be mistaken.

Originally Posted by Tracecross30

So bypassing the fuel pump is to just pulling out that specific relay and its bypass Or there is something else need to be done after removing the relay?

Originally Posted by D17VTECPOWER

Yeah, if you want to try it you just pull the relay out and jump the LOAD side of the socket with a paper clip or wire, NOT the control side or you will probably destroy the ECU. The load side is the copper prongs, the control side is the silver prongs. If you did it correctly you will hear the fuel pump running. Before you try this just turn the key on and listen if the fuel pump runs though, it should run for about 2 seconds once you turn the key on. If it does there is no need to do this because the fuel pump already runs. At least on my 05 the immobilizer doesn't keep the fuel pump from running, it just kills the injectors and the spark.

Originally Posted by Tracecross30

ok i think i understand. I also agreed wit botachip whatever is name is that said to try the pcm first instead of cutting up the wire harness but the harness comes with an opening on it so is just to cut the tape that over it and its already open once the tape remove.. I will Post something when i try put all these.

Originally Posted by BrotatoChip

Tried my immobilizer bypass method.....I was wrong. Accidently pooped a fuse trying to get the relay out. Fixed that, added the jumper, enabled the immobilizer. Tried to start the car but just cranks. You were right D17.

Originally Posted by Tracecross30

how did you popped a fuse by pulling out the relay mon.? Is it that hard to pull.?if its under the hood it shouldn't be that hard to pull.

Originally Posted by D17VTECPOWER

I was wondering the same thing. Just FYI the fuel pump relay isn't under the hood, it's the blue relay behind the glovebox and it's clipped in on the sides, you need to squeeze the tabs to get it out.

Originally Posted by BrotatoChip

I was using a pick, got angry at how long it was taking and stuck my pick underneath to help pull up. Caught one of the power terminals and the other end of my pick was touching the metal bracket the glove box mounts too. 15A fuse under the hood for the ECU blew.

Anyways, you can still swap ECUs and see if the code comes up right away. You won't be able to start but from the sound of it it goes active right away.

Originally Posted by D17VTECPOWER

Ah that makes sense, those relays are hard to pull out. At least the fuse was the only thing that was damaged, that certainly could have ended a lot worse.

You are correct, if the code comes up right away that will work. The ECU doesn't need to be flashed to communicate with a scanner or to read sensor data, it only needs to be flashed to start. It sounds like in his case the code takes a couple days of driving to come back though. Great idea!

Originally Posted by D17VTECPOWER

I wish it was that simple, but its not. Unless something changed between 01 and 05, which I highly doubt, the ECU cuts off the injector pulse as well as the spark, I have tested it. Same with the JDM D17 ECU I have with an immobilizer. I can't say first hand whether that works for the older Civics, but I know it didn't work with my 05. I believe it says right in the owners manual that the immobilizer disables the fuel and spark, but its been a while so I might be mistaken.

Originally Posted by Tracecross30

I haven't seen the p1505 code since i replaced the brake booster but i'm having the same RPM issue. I think the IAT connector has something to do with it and the consuming of gas. I'm called several parts stor to get the connector and also the dealer but not getting any result.they all said that they dont have it and that it is aprt of the wire harness.so since i didn't have any issue with the connector when i was testing it,I'm just going to replace the wire about 8" inches from the connector to the hole inside the engine bay behine the ECU.

Originally Posted by D17VTECPOWER

You can get those connectors on eBay. I would suggest replacing it if you are replacing the wiring anyways, it may be the whole problem. The pins may not be making proper contact with the wires or the sensor. Although it probably isn't the problem since you said wiggling that plug and the wires around there didn't affect the sensor's reading. https://www.ebay.com/itm/IAT-ECT-Vte...0AAOSwpl5cUVYK

Originally Posted by Tracecross30

i saw this same connection on ebay and also i put it in the shopping cart but i was wondering why it say (AIAT/ECT)?

Originally Posted by D17VTECPOWER

ECT is the engine coolant temp sensor, it uses the same connector.

Originally Posted by Tracecross30

Was thinking thats what it is but i never seen one contractors work for two on a vehicle so thats why i didn't order it.

Originally Posted by D17VTECPOWER

Yeah, if you want to try it you just pull the relay out and jump the LOAD side of the socket with a paper clip or wire, NOT the control side or you will probably destroy the ECU. The load side is the copper prongs, the control side is the silver prongs. If you did it correctly you will hear the fuel pump running. Before you try this just turn the key on and listen if the fuel pump runs though, it should run for about 2 seconds once you turn the key on. If it does there is no need to do this because the fuel pump already runs. At least on my 05 the immobilizer doesn't keep the fuel pump from running, it just kills the injectors and the spark.

Originally Posted by Tracecross30

So i did a smome test but i didn't found anything apart from the one little area between the TPS and the gasket.i spend a frw minutes and thats what i saw. I think its my IAT Sensor causing this RPM issue. I will definitely change the wire this week..

Originally Posted by D17VTECPOWER

There should not be a leak at the TPS. You changed that TPS, right? Did the new sensor come with a gasket? Did you tighten the sensor down good?

Originally Posted by Tracecross30

i changed it last year. Its just a tiny leak. The smoke was barely coming from it. You think that small of a leak will make that big difference?

Originally Posted by D17VTECPOWER

If the leak is big enough that low pressure smoke comes out it probably is not tiny considering the strong vacuum in the intake manifold. If it was okay for there to be a leak there Honda would have saved millions of dollars by not putting gaskets behind the TPS. I do not know if that leak is your entire problem or not, but if my car had an idle problem and burned too much gas and I knew I had a leaking TPS I would fix it and the problem with the IAT before searching for other problems, neither problem is expensive or difficult to fix and both could cause or contribute to the problems you are having.

Originally Posted by Tracecross30

i will be off from one of my jobs Friday so i will take that time and remove the throttle body,move the TPS, put some silicone on it lightly, put it on and recalibrate it and change the IAT Sensor wire and see if there will be any difference.

Originally Posted by D17VTECPOWER

Sounds good. Calibrate the TPS so it reads around 8-9% at idle, your scanner will show you the reading on the same screen as the IAT reading. Recheck the TPS percentage after you tighten the screws down too, tightening the screws could move the sensor a tiny bit. If it reads too high at idle the ECU will think you are pressing the gas and it won't idle correctly. Also, get some real screws for the sensor if you didn't already, those stock screws without the head suck and would be almost impossible to get tight enough to keep it from leaking.

Originally Posted by Tracecross30

its not stock screw I'm using. Will it shows a TPS reading different from the RPM reading?

Originally Posted by D17VTECPOWER

The scanner will show the TPS percentage on the same screen you went to to see the intake air temp. The engine doesn't need to be running to calibrate the sensor, the scanner will show the reading with the key on and the engine off. Just turn the key on 2 clicks so the gauges light up. Also, I forgot to mention that the sensor isn't going to read 100% with the throttle wide open, it will read low 90's. This is normal, don't try to make it read 100%. As long as it reads 8-9% at idle and 90% wide open you are good to go.