Rep Power: 302

PLEASE MAKE STICKY!! - Everyone should read this!
Do you have a problem with your idle "bouncing" ? Well, I did, and my mechanic and I tried everything! The problem appeared after my mechanic replaced the head gasket. It was throwing a P0505 engine code(idle system malfunction) I replaced the Idle Air Control valve 3 times, but that didn't solve the problem. I replaced the MAP sensor - NOPE! Then the EGR valve - still not it. Oxygen sensor - no way! Throttle position sensor - in your dreams! After spending hundreds of dollars to try fixing the idle surge, the problem was found!!! IMPORTANT NOTE: DO NOT SPRAY CARB CLEANER IN YOUR THROTTLE BODY TO CLEAN IT as my mechanic did!!! THERE IS A RING OF PAINT (easily mistaken for dirt/carbon) ON THE BACK SIDE OF THE BUTTERFLY PLATE AND SIDES OF THE THROTTLE BODY(see photo). DO NOT CLEAN THIS OFF!!! IF YOU DO, THEN YOUR IDLE WILL SURGE. It will allow too much air around the throttle plate(see photos) Make sure your mechanic knows about this if they are going to work on your motor!

OK, let's say you/your mechanic did clean this paint off. Here's some ways to fix it:
1 - Adjust the minimum air screw until it stops surging(probably wont work because too much paint was removed or the screw is rusted). See photo for location

2- Remove the throttle body and re-apply paint around the rim of the butterfly plate then re adjust the minimum air screw until the engine idles. (only those who are technically able should attempt this one)

3- THE BEST SOLUTION: replace the throttle body - I found one on Ebay for $50

TRY THESE SOLUTIONS BEFORE SPENDING HUNDREDS OF DOLLARS ON SENSORS!

This could also cause a very low idle if there is accessive dirt build-up around butterfly plate. Use only a clean rag to gently wipe off any grime build-up.

Enjoy!

 
Rep Power: 0

Hmm. I've been running with a hand-polished throttle plate and bore for about a year now and never had an idle surge issue. I'm glad it fixed your problem, but I have a sneaky feeling something else was wrong which is why it went away with the install of the new TB.

+1 for a good suggestion though. And holy **** you've been lurking on the forum for over 6 years with only 147 posts!

 
Rep Power: 251

Good posting...I dont have any idle problems or anything but its always a good idea to post your findings just incase someone else is having an issue. Most of the time when im searching for answers you get no where.....fast.

 
Rep Power: 811

idk about that, maybe it was something else like a bad TPS sensor which is also part of the tb. i pulled mine and scrubbed it hard, and even polished it. there was nothing there except metal and i have zero idle problems. i did the ecu reset and idle learn too, otherwise yea my idle was going crazy. you cant just install it and expect the idle to be fine. it even states in the manual you must relearn the idle after removing the TB

 
Rep Power: 0

hi. im new on here, but not new at working on cars. but i do have a problem with my car surging. my civic runs but it surges once in a while and after a couple of times the engine light comes on and the engine just gargles bad. so what i do is restart the car while in gear and it does it over again. it started two days after i swapped the engine out for the same. any ideas? cuz i took it to honda and they said that i need a new computer. if anyone can help i would be greatly appreciate it.

 
Rep Power: 811

do the idle learn. warm up car to normal temp, park, shut off engine, open hood and pull out FI ECU fuse from the fusebox near the battery, then put it back and close the hood. that resets the computer. start the car, let it idle 10 mins without using any accessory or pressing the gas. turn car off. turn back on and drive like you normally would.

 
Rep Power: 0

ill go ahead and try that right now. question: i didnt do that when i swapped, would that cause that car to do that and for the battery light to stay on?

 
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i tried it but it didnt work. my battery light is always on.

 
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hmm. new to this forum. anywho. i have the idle surge. same code P0505. and yes i sprayed carb/choke cleaner into my perfectly clean tb and intake. so my engine light went off but now its on again. i will check the paint stripe on the butterfly plate and re-post tomorrow

 
Rep Power: 0

Is throttle body cleaner the same thing as carb cleaner? If so why is it bad for the intake? I work at a place that uses throttle body cleaner on those intakes all the time whenever customer wants a fuel system cleaning done. I know you shouldnt use it on electronic throttle bodys. But civics arent electronic.

 
Rep Power: 811

yeah same thing for the cleaner. as for the spray being bad, its just bad if you spray it all over the place. youre supposed to spray it on a rag and then wipe, or clean the parts off the car. you dont want carb spray all over and inside the engine. i guess you could let it dry or something, but its better not to have flammables in the intake mani and head.

 
Rep Power: 282

Ive gotta agree with speedfoos and gearbox. i seriously doubt the paint was your issue. there was something else wrong. maybe a bent pin or even a loose connector. We use throttle cleaner all the time. sometimes it even gets oversprayed ( tho personally i put it on a rag and wipe). when you get too much in youll cause a misfire of cylinders and a random misfire code. as far as the idle learn procedure its a very important thing to do even if youve replaced the battery. as far as the dude with the battery light. your alternator is either bad, or the connector is loose where it plugs in. have your battery tested with a electrical charging system test. that will put you on the path for getting rid of that pesky light. and there is throttle body cleaner, and a honda product called top engine cleaner. throttle cleaner cleans the TB plate, why top engine cleaner gets injected thru the brake booster line and cleans passages the intake runners, the EGR ports, valve and thruways, and cleans the top of the piston heads.

 
Rep Power: 0

a stupide question but does a bad battery affect a cars idle

 
Rep Power: 811

it could, if the charge goes low enough to reset the computer, which will then cause the idle to mess up until you relearn it.

 
Rep Power: 0

Did anyone fix this issue. My d16y8 is having this issue after a head gasket job was done. They replaced a bunch of tubes and did a valve job on cylinder one and two and decked the head and replaced a knock sensor

 
Rep Power: 0

I have an 01 Civic that we have tried everything with to try and stop the surging(constant). Idle control valve replaced, cleaned the throttle body, ecu swapped out, manifold had a very small leak this was replaced!! NOTHING has fixed it and has cost many hundreds of $s. I am at my wits end..EGR valve inspected cleaned.. Please help!
Are there any new ideas thoughts suggestions? I am desperate to get this back on the road..!!
Honda has told me the TPS is built into the TB so I would have to replace the TB if I want to trey that..are they right or can the TPS be replaced itself?
Thanks!

 
Rep Power: 0

The tps can be replaced by itself. You have to remove the two pop rivets that secure it to the throttle body and replace with an aftermarket part. The aftermarket part well secure to the throttle body with two screws, and can be manually adjusted more easily than the stock. If you want to do it cheaper you can get your own screws and a attempt to manually adjust the stock Honda tps...

Tip: use you're scantool to verify what your tps is indicating. It if you're scan tool is not that great you're also able to use an electrical multi meter. My scan tool gives me a read out labeled TP. It reads ... well
Just go here:
http://youtu.be/GL8snGK_Q6U

 
Rep Power: 0

Hello all,
my challenge with my hybrid civic 2003 is that the rpm stays at zero wen idling and the car vibrates a bit.the car does not die off but I am experiencing poor acceleration and low gas mileage.i have changed all my plugs yet it remains the same.
I will appreciate suggestive solutions from all plss.

 
Rep Power: 0

I have a 2000 honda civic i have a front 02 senser but i dont have a rear one some one put exauhst and there is no bung for the 02 senser and i have an idle surge when it gets warm and some times it will run just fine any help would be nice.... do i need the rear one thats the only code it is throwing ... and i have a battery light on right now it charges and all that any help on that to would be nice d16y8 vtech motor

 
Rep Power: 133

Suggest posting in the 6th generation section...

I think you need the secondary O2 sensor installed in the exhaust to read and keep warm. The battery indicator would mean something amiss in the charging system like battery, alternator or the circuit.

 
Rep Power: 0

@civiccowboy
Hi,
What is the brand and description of the gray paint? Can I get it at retail auto stores like O'Reilly, or Autozone?

Thank you!

 
Rep Power: 0

I'm not understanding this issue, what does a paint have to do with this butterfly thing? I just took cleaned out and cleaned today and my civic 05 lx. Now when I put keys on I don't get the beep and I hit start engine and rpm goes up to 3000rpm and down continuously nonstop. What should I do here, I'm going crazy

 
Rep Power: 243

Try this post #2:

https://www.civicforums.com/forums/1...-pcm-idle.html

 
Rep Power: 0

It’s crZy reading all these people’s different ideas, have you even looked at the FITV? I just learned about idle training or whatever check the fitv is under the IACV

 
Rep Power: 223

The 7th gen doesn't have one, just the IACV.

 
Rep Power: 0

I had lots of problems with power loss at 3000 RPM and rough idle. 2012 Civic. Traced it to a ripped rubber intake boot that I replaced for $20. It is located right after the MAF (Mass Air Flow) sensor that is on top of the air cleaner housing. It has wires attached for the electrics. The rip/ tear in the rubber boot allows air to enter the intake, AFTER the sensor which results in a incorrect reading (lower air volume) which causes the car to lose power always in the same manner. Lower air volume sensed, lower fuel requirement, the engine power is lost due to less fuel, if you can understand the logic. Hard acceleration will cause the rip to open wider and is likely the cause of the rip in the first place. I found it on the back side of the boot away from site. May be able to feel the tear with your fingers. Honda sells this part for around $20. but the MAF sensor is close to $200.

 
Rep Power: 222

Glad you found the problem on your car, however 7th Gen civics do not have a maf, so while it would not be ideal, the car would still run fine

 
Rep Power: 0

can i do the idle relearn even my radiator is automatically on once i turn on the ignition?

 
Rep Power: 366

not sure what radiator have to do with idle relearn...

 
Rep Power: 223

Turn the A/C and defrost off.