Hello, I bought a 2001 honda civic lx, 1.7l automatic trans, about a month ago for the wheels. Guy said the trans was having an issue.
I put the wheels on another honda, but I drove the honda I bought home (about a 20 mile drive).
Anyway, It idled about 2000 rpms, and shifted hard, flashing D, wouldn't shift out of Park without using a screwdriver to manually go to drive.
I swapped the TPS from one I had laying around and put in new ATF. the rpms immediately went to 800, idled great, and would shift our of park on it's own.
I drove off, it started out slowly, like it didn't have 1st gear (it's an automatic), and it shifted fine after that.
Whenever I came to a stop, it again felt like I was starting out in second gear, and it shifted smooth and fine after that.
I put a timing belt and water pump on it. I noticed the relays behind the glove box usually have 4 (2 black, a blue, and a brown) but this one was missing the second black relay.
I don't think the trans is shot. Car only has 117,000 miles, and interior looks good. I would like to get it back on the road.
I don't know much about transmissions and I'm terrible with a volt meter.
I changed the trans solenoid that has the two towers on it and it was clean with no restrictions in the filter.
Any suggestions?
I put the wheels on another honda, but I drove the honda I bought home (about a 20 mile drive).
Anyway, It idled about 2000 rpms, and shifted hard, flashing D, wouldn't shift out of Park without using a screwdriver to manually go to drive.
I swapped the TPS from one I had laying around and put in new ATF. the rpms immediately went to 800, idled great, and would shift our of park on it's own.
I drove off, it started out slowly, like it didn't have 1st gear (it's an automatic), and it shifted fine after that.
Whenever I came to a stop, it again felt like I was starting out in second gear, and it shifted smooth and fine after that.
I put a timing belt and water pump on it. I noticed the relays behind the glove box usually have 4 (2 black, a blue, and a brown) but this one was missing the second black relay.
I don't think the trans is shot. Car only has 117,000 miles, and interior looks good. I would like to get it back on the road.
I don't know much about transmissions and I'm terrible with a volt meter.
I changed the trans solenoid that has the two towers on it and it was clean with no restrictions in the filter.
Any suggestions?
Colin42
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Take it to a trans shop and have them look at it. They aren't something for a novice to deal with. Also don't use aftermarket sensors or electronics.
Thanks Colin42. I only know of one around here, and I don't trust them. I used to have one I liked, but he went out of business. Probably because he was too honest! ha! I may go to a mechanic I trust and have him scan it. Was hoping someone on here had a similar issue. I checked by search and found lots of transmission issues, but none like mine....
'01 Civic transmission issue you say? https://www.carcomplaints.com/Honda/.../transmission/
CARCOMPLAINTS.COM NOTES: The 2001 Civic has transmission problems, transmission problems & more transmission problems. Did we mention transmission problems? As for the 2001 Civic's transmission woes? Honda conducted a major transmission recall in 2004 & settled a class action lawsuit for defective transmissions in 2006. But, neither the recall or the lawsuit included the 2001 Civic. Last thing to consider - the 2001 Civic is the most-recalled car ever.
'01 Civic transmission problems google search https://www.google.com/search?q=2001...client=gws-wiz
Civic forum related read https://www.civicforums.com/forums/3...stigation.html
CARCOMPLAINTS.COM NOTES: The 2001 Civic has transmission problems, transmission problems & more transmission problems. Did we mention transmission problems? As for the 2001 Civic's transmission woes? Honda conducted a major transmission recall in 2004 & settled a class action lawsuit for defective transmissions in 2006. But, neither the recall or the lawsuit included the 2001 Civic. Last thing to consider - the 2001 Civic is the most-recalled car ever.
'01 Civic transmission problems google search https://www.google.com/search?q=2001...client=gws-wiz
Civic forum related read https://www.civicforums.com/forums/3...stigation.html
If a shop tells you the transmission is a turd now and needs a rebuild. Here's a last-ditch-effort, go-for-broke, option you may want to try in case the transmission valve body https://advancedtransmission.com/valve-body/ is gummed up. Try a can of this https://seafoamworks.com/product/tra...uid-treatment/
If that "by the hand of god" works then add this https://www.lubegard.com/products/red/ to after doing another drain and fill. Maxlife ATF (for asian models) is fine to use and is much cheaper at Walmart compared to Honda atf. I've used it many times without issues.
TT reviews on Amazon
I normally don't promote using any additives, but if your transmission requires rebuild then you really have nothing to lose. Just drain 16 ounces of the current ATF out and add a can of Trans-Tune and drive it around for a day or two to see if it helps. If it helps do a drain and fill with Maxlife and optionally add Lubegard.
Maybe it's the Shamwow of snake oils? "ring out your ball sweat and save it for soup"
If that "by the hand of god" works then add this https://www.lubegard.com/products/red/ to after doing another drain and fill. Maxlife ATF (for asian models) is fine to use and is much cheaper at Walmart compared to Honda atf. I've used it many times without issues.
TT reviews on Amazon
I normally don't promote using any additives, but if your transmission requires rebuild then you really have nothing to lose. Just drain 16 ounces of the current ATF out and add a can of Trans-Tune and drive it around for a day or two to see if it helps. If it helps do a drain and fill with Maxlife and optionally add Lubegard.
Maybe it's the Shamwow of snake oils? "ring out your ball sweat and save it for soup"
Thanks for the links Wankenstein! I am going to buy two cans of the seafoam, and a can of the lubeguard.. Gonna add the seafoam, drive 30 miles, change it with the new lubegaurd AND seafoam in there.
Great suggestion as I know the trans is going and I have absolutely nothing to lose! Well, other than the cost of the products! Gracias amigo!
Great suggestion as I know the trans is going and I have absolutely nothing to lose! Well, other than the cost of the products! Gracias amigo!
Quote:
Great suggestion as I know the trans is going and I have absolutely nothing to lose! Well, other than the cost of the products! Gracias amigo!
"lubegaurd AND seafoam in there"Originally Posted by Fry
Thanks for the links Wankenstein! I am going to buy two cans of the seafoam, and a can of the lubeguard.. Gonna add the seafoam, drive 30 miles, change it with the new lubegaurd AND seafoam in there.Great suggestion as I know the trans is going and I have absolutely nothing to lose! Well, other than the cost of the products! Gracias amigo!
Did you mean lubegard and new ATF in there? Probably not a good idea to leave the seafoam in there long term.
Let us know how it goes.
Wankenstein, I watched a couple videos on the seafoam trans fix. It said 30 to 1000 miles. Most videos said it had immediate results. I am going to add the seafoam, drive for about 100 miles, change the fluid (this will be my second fluid change in 100 miles) and if it seems to work, gonna add the lubegard and new ATF. If it just helps a little, I'm gonna add the seafoam again (with the new atf) drive another hundred miles, then change the trans fluid (my third change in 200 miles) and add the duralube and fresh ATF. I'll post my results here. The car has 117,000 miles, so if I get another 20K before I have to tear into the trans, I'll BE HAPPY! Stay tuned.....
Cool. Hope it works for your car.
Well, I drove it 50 miles so far and I haven't noticed a difference. I CAN put it in D2 and it starts off fine, then shift into D3 or D and I am good to go. Not sure how long that will last, but It got me all around town and 75 on the hiway. Instead of shifting like a normal honda, it shifts like it has a CVT trans in it. You can't tell where the shift points are. So, as Colin42 suggested, I pulled into a trans shop and he said it sounds like some gears (I didn't really understand his explanation) but he showed me another honda they had in there with the same trans and it was going to be $2200.00 to rebuild. I think I'm going to drop the pan and see what is inside, I'll change the fluid at that time and add the seafoam again, and drive it around some more. At least I know my worst case scenario now! Thank you ALL for the help, I am not finished with this post yet, just going to try my ideas and I'll post back....
Can possibly find a used transmission on Facebook marketplace, Craigslist, local junkyard. Roll of the dice though.
Thanks ****, (I like how that rolls off the tongue), I have a spare trans to put in, I have to hire it out though. Not too worried about it. I think that Lucas is too thick, after cleaning out the passages with the Seafoam, I think I'll stick with the duralube. Anyway, I didn't get a chance to change the trans fluid today, I'll be busy tomorrow, so it will probably be the weekend before I get to change the fluid! I'll keep you informed bra!
Quote:
****, Wankenstein, Sir *****-A-Lot. They are all interchangeable. Originally Posted by Fry
Thanks ****, (I like how that rolls off the tongue), 
any updates?
Thanks for the reminder ****, well, I drove the car for about 100 miles, drained that beautiful, clean, cherry red transfluid with the Seafoam Trans Tune in it, and filled it will more trans fluid and put a bottle of duralube in it. I have not noticed any difference, but, as I said, I can drive it perfectly fine if I shift it manually from low to D. D light is still flashing. Still can't read codes because my OBD reader won't connect.
I am confused on checking the trans fluid. I don't have an owners manual for the 2001, but I'm sure it's the same for checking any 2001-2005 1.7l. I warm up the engine, shut it off, and check the fluid within a minute. I am above the crosshairs on the dipstick. I have read on hondas site that the engine should be off. I have read in other places the engine should be running. So, I'm not sure if I'm doing it correctly. If I wait about 3 minutes, the fluid level is in the crosshairs. I dumped 2.5 quarts, so I put that back in, but I'm wondering if I have overfilled? Thoughts?
I am confused on checking the trans fluid. I don't have an owners manual for the 2001, but I'm sure it's the same for checking any 2001-2005 1.7l. I warm up the engine, shut it off, and check the fluid within a minute. I am above the crosshairs on the dipstick. I have read on hondas site that the engine should be off. I have read in other places the engine should be running. So, I'm not sure if I'm doing it correctly. If I wait about 3 minutes, the fluid level is in the crosshairs. I dumped 2.5 quarts, so I put that back in, but I'm wondering if I have overfilled? Thoughts?
sdaidoji
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OBD reader not connecting - check if alternator bolts are tight - if loose, they tend to fry the ECU
Honda Owners' Manual:
https://www.civicforums.com/forums/3...oad-honda.html
purchase repair manuals
https://www.civicforums.com/forums/1...hase-them.html
download service manuals
https://www.civicforums.com/forums/1...l-updated.html
Honda Owners' Manual:
https://www.civicforums.com/forums/3...oad-honda.html
purchase repair manuals
https://www.civicforums.com/forums/1...hase-them.html
download service manuals
https://www.civicforums.com/forums/1...l-updated.html
Car on flat surface, engine at operating temperature, check atf level with engine off.
Thanks Sdaidoji,
I have tight bolts, and I have tried two different ECU's, so I know I don't have a fried one. Trans is bad. I think it was overfilled to begin with, so I am going to dump it one more time and slowly add and check until my fluid shows INBETWEEN the crosshairs. I'm above them right now.
I also checked fuse #9 I believe and it was good, so I'm not sure why OBD won't connect. At any rate, I am slowly figuring it out with the AWESOME help from this forum! Best move ever was joining!!!
I have tight bolts, and I have tried two different ECU's, so I know I don't have a fried one. Trans is bad. I think it was overfilled to begin with, so I am going to dump it one more time and slowly add and check until my fluid shows INBETWEEN the crosshairs. I'm above them right now.
I also checked fuse #9 I believe and it was good, so I'm not sure why OBD won't connect. At any rate, I am slowly figuring it out with the AWESOME help from this forum! Best move ever was joining!!!
Thanks ****,
I did as you said yesterday (how to check trans fluid) and I am overfilled. I'm sure the trans is bad (as the trans shop told me), so that will be my next step. I can't afford 2300 to put into a car that is worth about 3K, but I can put a used 500 dollar trans in! More later. I may just sell car as is, let people know about the trans, and move on to another if I can't find a cheap trans..... I'll keep everyone informed!!!
I did as you said yesterday (how to check trans fluid) and I am overfilled. I'm sure the trans is bad (as the trans shop told me), so that will be my next step. I can't afford 2300 to put into a car that is worth about 3K, but I can put a used 500 dollar trans in! More later. I may just sell car as is, let people know about the trans, and move on to another if I can't find a cheap trans..... I'll keep everyone informed!!!
If it's slightly overfilled (up to 1/2") above the top line of dipstick it's not likely to have caused any damage in my opinion. However, more than that could be damaging if left that way too long.
When you install the used transmission it's a good time replace the rear main seal. Hopefully, wherever you purchased the used one from has a 30 day warranty or more in case it's not working properly. If it does install it as soon as possible to keep within the warranty period.
When you install the used transmission it's a good time replace the rear main seal. Hopefully, wherever you purchased the used one from has a 30 day warranty or more in case it's not working properly. If it does install it as soon as possible to keep within the warranty period.
If it's slightly overfilled (up to 1/2") above the top line os dipstick it's not likely to have caused any damage in my opinion. However, more than that could be damaging if left that way too long.
The '01-'02 models were known to have automatic transmission issuesThey were improved from '03-'05.
When you install the used transmission it's a good time replace the rear main seal. Hopefully, wherever you purchased the used one from has a 30 day warranty or more in case it's not working properly. If it does install it as soon as possible to keep within the warranty period.
The '01-'02 models were known to have automatic transmission issuesThey were improved from '03-'05.
When you install the used transmission it's a good time replace the rear main seal. Hopefully, wherever you purchased the used one from has a 30 day warranty or more in case it's not working properly. If it does install it as soon as possible to keep within the warranty period.
Thanks again ****, you are coming through late in the 4th bro! Like Mahomes! Anyway, I"m gonna take a little out, but it's good to know that is not the cause!
Just to update this to close it out. It was indeed a trans issue that needed a rebuild. I ended up selling the car, and YES, Iet the buyer know that the trans was slipping and needed rebuilt or replaced with a used one. Also told him 2 of the 4 windows didn't go down, the passenger mirror didn't work automatically, and cruise did not work. He was happy with the price, I was sad I couldn't fix it, but it will drive as is for awhile. Everyone ended up happy. Thank you to everyone who helped! Go Dodgers!

