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How many motor mounts does the 05 Civic LX automatic transmission has? I know the upper driver side but all the rest never got replaced, car is 170,000 miles now. Do I need replacement
Awesome, good to know. Struts are badly damage, just ordered both front to see if most of the problem comes from that which is eating the tire. I replaced all the front chassis parts a year ago. Probably put some 50k miles since then, the stock ones never gave problems and last more than twice the miles.
Rear motor mount, haven't really seen that one go out very much on the 7thgen
Front motor mount, this one I've seen replaced a lot. I didn't quite replace mine, but really fixed it/converted it to a solid urethane mount, almost like an energy suspension insert, but more permanent using Devcon Flexane 80 pourable urethane and this DIY guide
Driver's side, not really replaced very much. Gel filled or something. There's something weird about this mount, and I've never really heard of one going bad, save for the time I accidentally stripped out the part of the mount that attaches to the engine and I had to tap it and put a new stud in
Transmission/passenger side mount, this one went bad on mine, but otherwise don't see much of this one getting replaced very often
edit; added stuff
Last edited by xRiCeBoYx; Apr 23, 2020 at 08:36 PM.
Rear motor mount, haven't really seen that one go out very much on the 7thgen
Front motor mount, this one I've seen replaced a lot. I didn't quite replace mine, but really fixed it/converted it to a solid urethane mount, almost like an energy suspension insert, but more permanent using Devcon Flexane 80 pourable urethane and this DIY guide
Driver's side, not really replaced very much. Gel filled or something. There's something weird about this mount, and I've never really heard of one going bad, save for the time I accidentally stripped out the part of the mount that attaches to the engine and I had to tap it and put a new stud in
Transmission/passenger side mount, this one went bad on mine, but otherwise don't see much of this one getting replaced very often
edit; added stuff
Glad to know about it, I plan on doing exactly that then. Everything cost so much and the cheap parts which still are costly too and gives all this trouble after needing replacement cause they don't last.
Have you tried this same method on the lower control arm bushings? Last bushings I bought last year one side the rubber is broken. Piece of garbage every parts I get from rockauto.com I need something that last like original stock parts. All tie rod, ball joints sway bar link all bad a year after I replaced them. This didn't happen with stock ones I put 120k on them and still were good
One set does both left and right control arms (comes with 4 bushings total). The removal process of the OEM bushings is quite destructive, even per Energy Suspension's instructions -- they tell you to take a hacksaw to the rear bushing's (the one whose bolt goes in horizontally) housing and use a punch to take it out. It's a pain in the *** process. The compliance bushing (bolt goes in vertically), I chipped away at the rubber with a razor blade , then took a hacksaw/dremel to the outer metal shell of the bushing. I'm pretty sure I nicked the LCA a bit with the hacksaw, but it was a non-issue. I also tapped the LCA on both and threaded in some zerk fittings as lubrication points, Threaded them in just enough so they were flush with the inner surface of the LCA bushing.. housing.. part. I'ma tell you right now, silicone grease is a pain in the *** to pump through a grease gun, but it's doable. After that, I liberally greased up the poly bushings with silicone grease and pressed them in, then pumped more silicone grease through the zerk fittings. Another big pain in the *** because I didn't have a proper press, but I found out that one of those portable clamping sawhorses (pictured below) work sufficiently to press in greased up bushings. Hard to get started, but once it goes through, man, that thing pops right in place.
If you decide to go the DIY route by fixing your motor mounts and turning them into solid polyurethane ones, looks like
. I'd imagine any polyurethane rubber that actually hardens (not like 3M windoweld like I've read some people use) with the same hardness level will work, however. From what I recall, the 80 hardness is about the same as most poly bushings out there, while the 94 is about as hard as a hockey puck. Back when I did the fix, the urethane rubber was maybe like 50 bucks, the ES inserts were about the same, but still just inserts, and new mounts (at least the ones I needed to replace - front and tranny side) were about $100 each plus shipping. You're damn right I opted for the DIY route, mostly because I had the time that I could be without my car for 48 hours while I let the rubber cure. If you're holed up bc of COVID, I'd imagine now's a good a time as any. You will feel a bit of an increase in NVH, but very manageable.
Wow, you are right I couldn't replace that one side on the LCA last time, still the other was also a hard without proper tools. I'm gonna be ordering all those parts and do the mounts too. Now I need rear struts too, will see which I decide for since the front I just installed are Gabriel ultra which I doubt will last any longer than last Monroe ones. Will see, need tie rods end, sway bar links and possibly ball joints since the boots are cracked.this never ends
Also in need of starter motor solenoid, I cleaned and sanded the starter but the solenoid has been failing for a long time now and is time to fix it. I had been looking to repair parts on Amazon which i even messaged them for fitment details and never got response however there's one for $20 but I'm not sure if to trust that. I still prefer to fix the original. Which might be better quality
You got a good list of sites for genuine Honda OEM parts. A little pro-tip, make an account and add crap to your cart and let it sit. A few of 'em email you coupon codes after a while. I think Bell Honda sends you a 5% off coupon code, then if you wait longer, they'll send a 10%. Another protip, some dealerships will price match those websites with shipping. Wouldn't hurt to ask. One dealership around me won't, but another explicitly told me that if I show them a better price with shipping included, they'll match it no problem. Often times, dealerships can get stuff next day or have it readily on hand, so it's definitely worth a shot.
Struts, if you're willing to pay a bit more, Tokico HP struts are really nice. I think it's in the ballpark of $400 for a full set, so take that for what it's worth. They are performance based struts, however, and are designed in such a way they'll handle mild drops without going out fast. I'd venture a guess they'd last longer with OEM springs on them, but that's pure speculation. Be mindful of what struts you order, regardless of brand. Only buy ones that fit on 03-05 civics and not 01-02's. The crash bolt size increased from 14mm to 16mm after 2002
If you want some good OEM replacement endlinks/ball joints, Moog makes some good ones. They're basically OEM spec beefed up a bit.
Last edited by xRiCeBoYx; Apr 30, 2020 at 03:48 AM.
If you want some good OEM replacement endlinks/ball joints, Moog makes some good ones. They're basically OEM spec beefed up a bit.
Thread a bit old but I had to agree here...
Just installed Moog sway bar links (the beefy ones) and ball joints this summer. They all have zerk fittings and fit very well. I would recommend them for sure
