Timing Belt/Possible valve damage
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ol’ unreliable
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Timing Belt/Possible valve damage
2003 Civic LX, I started my car in -20 F temp. I let it run for about ten minutes and took of to work. About two miles down the road, I heard a small pop and hiss from the engine, and lost all power/engine died. I did not hear any metallic clanging or anything of the sorts. Upon inspection a few days later, I saw my timing belt had snapped. I have taken everything off (snapped belt, timing belt tensioner, water pump). Was wondering if I could line up the cam and crank to their respective marks and attempt to hand turn the engine to feel resistance from possible bent valves. If so, if there is no resistance should I try to start the car? Trying to avoid taking the head off being as it’s cold as hell outside. Any advice welcomed
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Re: Timing Belt/Possible valve damage
Why did timing belt fail?
Before removing the water pump and tensioner (assuming neither directly caused the belt to fail), I would have got a new timing belt (what's that cost, 25 bux or so?) and install it. Assemble enough to start the engine.
If engine does not run or runs horribly bad (dead miss), you lost. Bent valve(s), major work ahead.
If engine runs on all 4 cylinders, reassemble it completely and go buy some lottery tickets.
Before removing the water pump and tensioner (assuming neither directly caused the belt to fail), I would have got a new timing belt (what's that cost, 25 bux or so?) and install it. Assemble enough to start the engine.
If engine does not run or runs horribly bad (dead miss), you lost. Bent valve(s), major work ahead.
If engine runs on all 4 cylinders, reassemble it completely and go buy some lottery tickets.
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ol’ unreliable
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How do I get the cam and crank aligned correctly? When turning the camshaft, it sort of jumps from one spoke being at 12 o’clock to the next. I don’t think this is normal but not positive. I also don’t know how to go about repositioning my crank to the mark on the block, do I need to reinstall the pulley?
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Joined: Dec 2011
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From: Midwest. Aiming about mid-chest
Rep Power: 518 Re: Timing Belt/Possible valve damage
How do I get the cam and crank aligned correctly? When turning the camshaft, it sort of jumps from one spoke being at 12 o’clock to the next. I don’t think this is normal but not positive. I also don’t know how to go about repositioning my crank to the mark on the block, do I need to reinstall the pulley?
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How do I get the cam and crank aligned correctly? When turning the camshaft, it sort of jumps from one spoke being at 12 o’clock to the next. I don’t think this is normal but not positive. I also don’t know how to go about repositioning my crank to the mark on the block, do I need to reinstall the pulley?
Thread Starter
ol’ unreliable
Joined: Oct 2018
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Rep Power: 0 Re: Timing Belt/Possible valve damage
Why did timing belt fail?
Before removing the water pump and tensioner (assuming neither directly caused the belt to fail), I would have got a new timing belt (what's that cost, 25 bux or so?) and install it. Assemble enough to start the engine.
If engine does not run or runs horribly bad (dead miss), you lost. Bent valve(s), major work ahead.
If engine runs on all 4 cylinders, reassemble it completely and go buy some lottery tickets.
Before removing the water pump and tensioner (assuming neither directly caused the belt to fail), I would have got a new timing belt (what's that cost, 25 bux or so?) and install it. Assemble enough to start the engine.
If engine does not run or runs horribly bad (dead miss), you lost. Bent valve(s), major work ahead.
If engine runs on all 4 cylinders, reassemble it completely and go buy some lottery tickets.
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 32,017
Likes: 256
From: Midwest. Aiming about mid-chest
Rep Power: 518 Re: Timing Belt/Possible valve damage
with the crank and cam lined to TDC marks. However, i was wondering if the #1 piston has to be at TDC on the compression stroke.
The cam lobes opening and closing the valves at specific times are what determines which part of the stroke/cycle each piston will be doing as it moves up and down.
Just follow the service manual to install the belt correctly.
In addition, is there anything preventing me from doing a compression test on each cylinder before reinstalling spark plugs and valve cover?
Because the life of a timing belt depends on it staying CLEAN ---I'd slap the valve cover on with a couple bolts just so oil doesn't get slung all over the place and contaminate the new timing belt while you are cranking the engine for the tests.
I feel like I am nearing the end of this repair
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ol’ unreliable
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The car is alive. After reinstalling the alternator and power steering, I tried starting the car, and it started. Unfortunately, there are some sounds I don’t recall being there before the repair. There’s sort of a howling sound near the belts ( alternator+ power steering) and a rapid ticking from the engine. Leads me to believe I might have some valves that might not be in A1 condition.
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Joined: Dec 2011
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From: Midwest. Aiming about mid-chest
Rep Power: 518 Re: Timing Belt/Possible valve damage
Okay but does it still run on all 4 cylinders now?
No dead cylinder miss?
Check engine light is not flashing while running?
No fault codes?
No dead cylinder miss?
Check engine light is not flashing while running?
No fault codes?
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ol’ unreliable
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The check engine light is not on, and there aren’t any codes popping up on the scanner. How do I check if it’s running on all four cylinders?
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
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From: Midwest. Aiming about mid-chest
Rep Power: 518 Re: Timing Belt/Possible valve damage
How do I check if it’s running on all four cylinders?
How long did you let it run?
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 32,017
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From: Midwest. Aiming about mid-chest
Rep Power: 518 Re: Timing Belt/Possible valve damage
A good 15 minutes, long enough for the car to get up to temperature. It doesn’t sound rough,
the ticking has me worried though.
Could it have been making noise all along but suddenly you're super critical of every little thing now?
Thread Starter
ol’ unreliable
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Oh I’m not sure, I probably am being critical... just happy the car runs! I thought for sure I would’ve messed SOMETHING up taking on a repair like that. I’m 18 and have only just started working on cars so this repair felt like something a little bigger than what I could take on
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