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okay, I've done some browsing here and I want to start by apologizing for another thread of this sort! It's my hope to get some specific advice.

I'm at a friend's rustic acreage with few tools available. He is without a car so I need to minimize my trips to the auto parts store.

The car was running great until yesterday morning and it wouldn't start. There is no spark, and the fuel pump does engage with ignition.

I can't get the cap off the distributor for lack of tools. (I'll have the tools airlifted in along with the parts I end up deciding to try out.)

There is a mess of oil under the dizzie, which seems like it could be a sign the dizzie is shot! The v-tech solenoid has a leak, but I don't know if that's what could have caused the mess. I don't recall of the mess was there before I started poking around the distributor. Since i can't get the cap off atm, and considering the leaky solenoid, does that mess indicate a rotten distributor?

The mechanic I bought the car from recommends I replace the whole distributor. I'd like to avoid wasting money on a part that may not fix my problem, but considering my circumstances if it's a good bet I'll pull the trigger.

So should I just have a friend bring me a new dizzie and the tools needed and hope for the best? Or is that risky, should I have it towed to a shop and be hit with a bill I might not be able to pay?

Thanks!

 
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I just learned more about the solenoid leak, and that seems to be where the oil I mentioned is coming from.

So my question now is. Do I just replace the whole distributor?

 
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Aftermarket reman distributors are CRAP, you may pull all your hair out before you get a good one. You're better off to fix what you already have, if you can......but the aftermarket parts you buy to fix it may still be crap that won't last a third of what the original parts lasted. (aftermarket coils have been fair, but aftermarket igniters just don't seem to last like the originals)

Oil leaks are oil leaks, you can buy the two gaskets for the VTEC solenoid from any dealer (we can get you the part number for the gasket the dealer cannot find) and you can buy an O ring for the base of the distributor if it is leaking. Same for the valve cover gasket set.

The heater hose near the dist will get soaked in oil and get swollen and mushy, then burst at the worst possible time...possibly trashing the engine by overheating. Replace if oil soaked. Fix oil leaks so the next one doesn't fail.


As far as the no spark issue.....Got any fault codes related to the distributor?

Next, remove dist cap and test for spark output directly at the ignition coil, I use a grounded screwdriver as my spark checker.

See how large a lightning bolt you can get from it. Ideally you should be able to get more than a half inch long spark from a good coil that is working.

If you get a good long spark but have no spark at the plugs, check rotor/cap/wires.



If you only get like 0.5-1mm of spark out of the coil, that means everything except the coil is working. Replace coil.



If there is absolutely zero spark, more checks are needed.

One, check for 12v at the + coil connection when the key is on.

Two, test for a dwell reading (pulsing ground signal) on the neg terminal of the coil using a dwellmeter and cranking the engine. Any dwell reading means the igniter is trying to fire the coil, and the coil is bad. I think I usually see about 3-5 degrees of dwell during the cranking test.

If zero dwell reading, recheck how you have it hooked up and retry. If still zero, it may have a bad igniter. Or more.

 
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Okay, rather than have a new distributor brought here I'll have someone buy me the tools I need and the parts I may need, and return the ones I don't. I am stranded here with no tools so I want to make sure to reduce possible trips.

Can you elaborate on checking the cap and rotor? Do you mean replace them, or is their some maintenance I can do.

I've not been able to find what part the ignitor is. I guess it's in the distributor, but I don't find anything by that name when I search.

Thanks!

 
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Igniter = ignition control module inside the distributor, it has 4 or 5 wires attached to it. It controls the ground signal on/off (trigger) for the coil, based on what the ECM tells it to do, based on what all the sensors tell the ECM.





See if you have spark, or not, at the coil....before worrying about the cap/rotor/wires.

 
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Will do.

 
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Cap removal probably needs a 7 or 8 mm socket, and a ratchet and short extension

A good strong #2 Phillips for the coil screws

I think that's about it. Maybe a rock can be used as a hammer.

If you gotta pull the entire distributor out, I think there's 3, 12mm head bolts that need to come out.
Coil usually fails first, somewhere around 100-150k. I was thinking that's probably gonna be your problem, or at least most likely.

 
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Will I need any tools to replace a coil... Does it, like, just come out?

 
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Remove dist cap (3 small bolts)
remove rotor (1 Phillips screw, rotate crankshaft until you can reach the screw, it may be TIGHT)
remove 'leak cover' (slides out after rotor is removed)
remove coil (2 wires with 2 short screws, and 2 larger screws hold it in the housing)

I guess you might need a way to rotate the crankshaft to get to the screw holding the rotor on. If manual trans you can put it in 4th gear and bump the bumper with your knees to move the car slightly LOL
If auto trans, you might be able to use a wrench on .....the steering pump pulley, or you might need to put a wrench on the crankshaft (will the lugwrench fit on there?) to rotate it.
Or have someone bump the key over.

If the coil was found to actually be bad, pry off the metal shield from its side after you get it out and you may be able to see a burned spot or chalky residue where the 'missing' spark has been leaking out of the side of the coil.



Oh jeez, now I'm thinking of all kinds of possible stuff.
Once spark is restored, you may find it still won't start because it has flooded the sparkplugs and cylinders with unburned fuel.
If it cranks faster than it usually does, it probably has washed down the cylinder walls with fuel.
You may need to pull sparkplugs out to dry them and the cylinders.
You may need to oil the cylinders to restore compression.
You may need a battery charger if this requires a lot of cranking to make it run again.

 
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Oy vey, at least there's a solar array here so I could just stick my battery in there if it needs recharging.

Since you're so helpful, would you mind giving me a rundown of how to restore the cap/rotor/wires if I do end up getting a good arc off the coil?

 
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Remove and replace as needed. Wires have to go around the cap in the exact same order as the originals.



Wait....... how did you determine you have no spark in the first place?

 
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I found a screwdriver handle and stuck a metal shim in it. Then took a plug out stuck the shim in it, and held the shim near a ground while my friend cranked it. I also did the same with some random wire. Does this seem reasonable?

 
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I guess so. (but I can't see what went on to know for sure LOL)

 
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Yeah, I can't quite be sure either. My assumption is that metal conducts electricity and I held it to a few different grounds (I think) on the car, so... And the fuel pumps.

 
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You know how hard a jolt you'd get if you got zapped by a spark plug wire with 30,000 volts, yes?

Would you feel brave enough to hold a bare plug wire while someone cranks your engine? If you KNOW you won't get zapped, you probably did it right.

 
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Ha, I suppose.

What method would you recommend? What tool?

 
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I use a 24" screwdriver, or anything similar that's handy. I might even clip a grounded wire to it, or just keep it stabbed (grounded) against something metal on the engine or trans.
Or a pocket screwdriver. Different needs for different situations.

I'm not scared of taking a zap from a plug wire in the hand, but I'm real leery of leaning into a fender while doing it. The spark goes into your hand and comes out of your body to the fender you're leaning on------through whatever is in your shorts (think about it)

 
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Thanks for the warning!

I'm confused about clipping the screwdriver to a ground. If it's making contact, wouldn't that preclude a spark?

 
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I did not watch this video yet

 
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At 4.45 to 5.15 he shows checking for spark at the coil, I disagree with what he shows....A spark from there needs to be able to jump the half inch gap.
If it only jumps 1mm and no further, that's not strong enough; bad coil.

 
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Great video.

 
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Went in and tested the coil. It was weak, so we out in the new one. Started right up!

Thank you. This was my first repair, and it feels great.

 
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Right on!