Rep Power: 210

1997 Civic EX 1.6L stock. A/T. 163k miles

Replaced ac compressor clutch coil today... related link: https://www.civicforums.com/forums/2...cold-idle.html Repair was delayed for almost two weeks due to going on vacation and waiting for shipped clutch coil.
Before leaving for vaction I put car on jacks, lowered engine (scissor jack + block of wood under oil pan), removed ac compressor clutch assembly and coil. All that was left after returning was to put the new clutch coil on and get it all back together. Spun the compressor pulley by hand after installing snap ring and after tightening clutch plate nut.. pulley spun freely. Got it all back together pretty smoothly, crank the engine and it's now it's a no start issue.

I checked all related ignition, fuel pump and several other fuses..all are intact. Starter is cranking but may not be engaging. I removed the battery and placed it on a charger for a couple hours and it wasn't drained when I first connected it.. reached a full charge within two hours. It's late and I'm tired but hoping to recieve some input.

**After a good night of sleep I realize it could be the compressor pulley is spinning incorrectly or not at all. Maybe the snap ring popped out of place and is binding. If so, would this be enough to cause a no-start issue? Also, I tightned the a/c tensioner pulley nut down as much as possible (belt deflection/tension is fine)... would that cause binding or should it still spin freely? I tightened the tensioner pulley nut with the a/c belt already on so I couldn't spin it by hand. I should know all this but, it's been a while since I last tensioned it.

Later today I plan to loosen the a/c belt and spin the compressor pulley and tensioner pulley by hand to see if they spin freely and if they do I will try to start the engine with the a/c belt loose (or removed).

 
Rep Power: 518

Just put a socket on the crank pulley bolt and rotate the engine by hand.
If you can do that by hand, the AC pulley stuff is not your problem. Look elsewhere.




Made no sense to me. You can't tell by the sound if the starter is freewheeling without engaging the engine, or if the engine is being spun by the starter?

 
Rep Power: 210

Thanks EZ.
Mr. Spock agrees that is the logical and far easier thing to do.

If, it turns out the a/c compressor pulley and belt rotate when I manually rotate the crank I will post a video of the the sound made during starts. It's a winding sound as if the starter's armature is rotating but, it's gear teeth are not enganging the flywheel's teeth.

 
Rep Power: 518

Have someone else twist the key while you watch the belts to see if the engine turns?

 
Rep Power: 210

okay.

I've never had a no start issue with this car before and it almost always starts on the first try as long as the I wait until the service engine light goes off/fuel system primes. I should know more within the next couple hours when I check it out. I live in a condo and do all car maintanence at my mom's house so, have to drive out there first.

 
Rep Power: 210

My son turned ignition key and belts/crank not moving. Got it up on jacks, removed left front tire, pulled spark plugs and rotated crank manually... crank and compressor pulley spinning well without resistance.

Looking like it's the starter or battery not providing enough cranking amps although, it's turning the starter. Am I on the right track or am I missing something? I intend to pull the starter to test it and inspect flywheel teeth if I can rotate it 360.

Update: I switched out my mom's 04 Civic battery into mine and the engine is turning but not cranking when the ignition key is turned. Sounds like the starter is dragging but, may be due to a possible no: fuel, air, spark issue.
I am charging the battery I pulled from my car and on an old Schauer (American made) 6v/12v charger is currently reading 1.5 DC amps.. is a full charge around 3 DC amps?

Update: pulled starter and taking it and battery to Autozoinks for testing.

Update: Starter is shot. Had it tested at two parts stores and watched them test it. Probably, will end up pulling a used one.. Reman. prices at parts stores were each over $100. Battery tested fine. Are 5th gen starters the same as 6th gen? Maybe I can rebuild it to be better, stronger, faster like the 36 million dollar man (1970's to 2016 inflation). Rebuild kit link: http://www.aspwholesale.com/repair-k...mgr-p6148.html

 
Rep Power: 518

Busy day today. Bizzy bizzy bizzy.
Did you fix starter yet?

 
Rep Power: 210

Not yet. I can most likely find one in a local salvage yard but, I'm also considering the kit I linked to rebuild the OEM (most likely original) I pulled. I've never rebuilt one but, doesn't look to be much to it. As it turns out the company I linked is within a 45 minute drive from me. I e-mailed them last night to inquire about purchasing it directly at their facility.. waiting for reply.

Hopefully, the clutch coil is going to solve the a/c issue.

 
Rep Power: 210

Used OEM starter in and engine running well.
Stupid me turned a 20 minute job into a two day job by stripping out one of the starter bolt holes by overtightening. One new angle drill purchase, use of previously purchased helicoil kit and new red thread locker:to strenghten helicoil outer diameter to new tapped saluminium surface. I unscrewed (pun-intended) the situation.

Unfortunately, new strong vibration coming from either the a/c compressor clutch coil repair or the 100% silicone sealant I added into the crappy lower left front motor mount (bolts to subframe under wheel well). Those two front mounts tear within a year or less it seems. I figured I'd try filling the left one in with silicone instead of replacing it. The a/c is working but, vibrates more (than usual) when compressor is engaged. I'm starting to think I might be my car's own worst enemy..lol.

 
Rep Power: 518

Remove the goo out of both of those and throw away?

My understanding is those two mounts are intended to help guide the drivetrain downward during a severe front end collision, so the flimsy rubber in them is not important at all. Only the pegs and brackets are important. JMO.

 
Rep Power: 210

I thought adding it might help during weight shifts ex: slowing down and then accelerating before coming to a complete stop. I installed new front lower mounts about 7 months ago and it did seem to help in that situation however, the new mounts did increase vibration compared to the old torn mounts. The new vibration is more severe most likely due to the rigidity of the silicone. I will may run it like it is for a while to see if it softens up and if not then rip it out.

My son and I installed a 70 durameter polyurethane mount in his 2007 Mazda 3 a few years ago and it helped reduce wheel hop quite noticeably however, the vibrations increased greatly as well for about 3 or 4 months and especially with the compressor engaged.

 
Rep Power: 210

Finally got a chance to get it up to highway speed yesterday during a half hour drive and a rotational, rubbing and squeaking noise was eminating from the a/c compressor. I removed the belt and spun the idler pulley and compressor pulley by hand..both spun freely. Turns out the a/c belt was overtensioned even though during the initial install I was able to turn the belt 180 degrees at it's mid-point of the longest area between to pulleys.
Belt re-adjustment seems to be working well (much like my own after a big dinner and beers) and noise is gone.

I didn't remove all the silcone within the front mount but, I did poke some holes in it with a screw driver and vibrations have decreased.

A/C seems to be working well but, I can't call it fixed until a few weeks pass by. When I replaced the condenser fan that fixed it for about 4 days so, need a it more time. Next issue to tackle is an existing one that I posted about a few months ago in which air is only blowing out of top vents regardless of the level setting. Just haven't had time to get to it. I'm hoping it's just the metal connecting rod/linkage to the bi-level door has popped off and simply needs to be reattached: https://www.civicforums.com/forums/2...top-vents.html
I just read my last reply in that post: "Will do that when I get off of work in the morning." and three months later it's still unchecked.

Mode motor control:




Is this the linkage? (Webpage:http://www.hondacivicforum.com/forum...0-civic-68735/) :

 
Rep Power: 518

If your control panel looks like the one on the diagram, the temperature slide lever operates the (air mix) cable and the pushbuttons control the mode control servo motor.


Stick your head under the dash and watch each thing while operating the HVAC controls to see what happens

 
Rep Power: 210

Yes, my car is just like the one in diagram: http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/NzkyWDE1OTU=/z/WgIAAOSwTapV6bVI/$_1.JPG
When I press level buttons I do not hear the servo motor.
This is my car's fuse panel and I do not see a fuse for the servo motor: https://i.imgur.com/qcY2u.jpg
Is this the servo?: http://www.ebay.com/itm/331509734575?rmvSB=true

 
Rep Power: 518

Well thats a starting point, but could you ever hear it operate before?

Find servo, grab it, push and pull on the linkage or arm while pushing various buttons to see if it is just stuck (or the position sensor went flaky)

I'm sure a service manual has testing information.