A/C Not Cold At Idle
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A/C Not Cold At Idle
1997 Civic EX, stock D16Y8. A/T. 160K miles. Replaced A/C clutch bearing assembly four months ago.
Recent issue: A/C not cold at idle otherwise, works very well while car is moving. While in idle the compressor will turn on for about 10 seconds and shut-off which, from what I've read is a fail-safe feature.
I google searched and most threads say the condensor fan or related fuses/relays is the most likely suspect. I haven't had much time to look at it but, I did turn the A/C on and watch for condensor fan to kick on and it did.
Is the radiator fan supposed to turn on too when the compressor is engaged or are they unrelated? The radiator fan didn't turn on during the couple minutes or so I monitored them. My guess is that it would have turned on around the 5 to 10 minute mark as normal. No overheating issues and temp guage stays just below halfway mark (normal).
Recent issue: A/C not cold at idle otherwise, works very well while car is moving. While in idle the compressor will turn on for about 10 seconds and shut-off which, from what I've read is a fail-safe feature.
I google searched and most threads say the condensor fan or related fuses/relays is the most likely suspect. I haven't had much time to look at it but, I did turn the A/C on and watch for condensor fan to kick on and it did.
Is the radiator fan supposed to turn on too when the compressor is engaged or are they unrelated? The radiator fan didn't turn on during the couple minutes or so I monitored them. My guess is that it would have turned on around the 5 to 10 minute mark as normal. No overheating issues and temp guage stays just below halfway mark (normal).
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Low freon could make it short cycle
Condenser fan MUST run when compressor runs.
Radiator and radiator fan are completely separate systems and operate independently of the AC system.
Condenser fan MUST run when compressor runs.
Radiator and radiator fan are completely separate systems and operate independently of the AC system.
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The plastic caps that cover those service ports, they have rubber gaskets inside them and are intended to contain any seepage from those valves, along with keeping dirt out of the service ports.
Were his missing? Are yours missing?
Were his missing? Are yours missing?
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Not sure if his were missing but, mine are present and the o-ring seals inside the caps are in new condition. At operating temp I turned on the a/c today and this time the condenser fan did not come on. I turned the engine off, restarted and turned a/c on again... condenser fan did not come on. Checked condenser fan fuse and it's intact. Switched condenser fan relays with the one next to it (same part number) and fan did not come on.
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I turned on the a/c today and this time the condenser fan did not come on. I turned the engine off, restarted and turned a/c on again... condenser fan did not come on. Checked condenser fan fuse and it's intact. Switched condenser fan relays with the one next to it (same part number) and fan did not come on.
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If the compressor engages and the condensor fan is not running, that's a problem that needs checked out.
IF the system is full and the fan doesn't run...with the compressor running and no air flow..... that could overpressure the system, cause the pressure cutout switch to kill the compressor (short cycling), and cause your idle to drop as the compressor engages due to a bunch of load as it attempts to pump at double or triple it's usual operating pressure.
Did I just hit on a clue here?
See if the compressor is actually spinning the clutch, don't just rely on sound
IF the system is full and the fan doesn't run...with the compressor running and no air flow..... that could overpressure the system, cause the pressure cutout switch to kill the compressor (short cycling), and cause your idle to drop as the compressor engages due to a bunch of load as it attempts to pump at double or triple it's usual operating pressure.
Did I just hit on a clue here?
See if the compressor is actually spinning the clutch, don't just rely on sound
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IF the system is full and the fan doesn't run...with the compressor running and no air flow..... that could overpressure the system, cause the pressure cutout switch to kill the compressor (short cycling), and cause your idle to drop as the compressor engages due to a bunch of load as it attempts to pump at double or triple it's usual operating pressure. Did I just hit on a clue here?
Are you saying that my engine's idle issue (separate post) may be caused by too much load on the electrical system even when the compressor is not engaged or only when it's engaged?
Would you say the most likely suspect is the condenser fan motor? As, I mentioned initially the system cools fine when car is in motion.. which leads me to think that it might not be due to refrigerant loss.
Not sure if you recall that I changed out the a/c compressor bearing a few months ago and when I did I used a feeler gauge to get proper separation between the pulley and clutch disk. I remember I couldn't tighten center bolt to achieve the proper separation.. is that normal? If, it loosen and created more separation is that a problem?
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Are you saying that my engine's idle issue (separate post) may be caused by too much load on the electrical system even when the compressor is not engaged or only when it's engaged?
But if it's doing this with the AC OFF then this point is moot. Move on to the next issue.
I couldn't tighten center bolt to achieve the proper separation.
Air gap is set using those thin little shims.
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No, a mechanical load not electrical. If the compressor is trying to pump the system at 450+ PSI it's gonna require a lot more engine power than trying to pump at 150 PSI.
But if it's doing this with the AC OFF then this point is moot. Move on to the next issue.
Separation? You mean air gap?
Air gap is set using those thin little shims.
But if it's doing this with the AC OFF then this point is moot. Move on to the next issue.
Separation? You mean air gap?
Air gap is set using those thin little shims.
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I'm making a trip to the local salvage yard tomorrow. I have a part for my son's car to return and i might as well pull a condenser fan. They give a 30-day full refund so, might as well.
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Is it normal for that bolt to be secure but not tightened down like a typical bolt applicatioln would be?
There's a torque spec, did you use it?
Bolt 10 ft-lb (Denso compressor)
Nut 13 ft-lb (Sanden compressor)
and i might as well pull a condenser fan. They give a 30-day full refund so, might as well.
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Okay: 1) ohms test 2) direct 12 vdc from battery?
Last edited by Wankenstein; Apr 11, 2016 at 04:20 AM.
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Okay: 1) ohms test
Ohm test alone is of little value.
2) direct 12 vdc from battery?
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Are you insuinuating that all my car's issues are "all because of me"?..That I am my car's own worst enemy?.. I concur..lol. Brian Johnson's squinty eyes in that video makes him look like Mr. Magoo
Last edited by Wankenstein; Apr 11, 2016 at 04:40 AM.
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And now we know how 80's glam rock was born...lol. hey, hey, hey. hey
No I wasn't insinuating anything, someone posted the video on Facebook and I just thought it was cool.
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I purchased 30ft (will cut in half) 15 amp, 60 vdc wires + 2 sets of black and red alligator clips to directly wire the condenser fan to the battery. Might get to it today.
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Condenser fan motor is dead.. wired directly to battery and nothing. Removed it and looking into either a salvaged one or a cheap new one on line.
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Registered!!
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Re: A/C Not Cold At Idle
Sorry for hijacking the thread. I watched the video in this thread and me too, the a/c of my civic is leaking from the low side valve. If someone know the part number or the model number of the valve core, please let me know. thx.
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We keep a variety of AC valve cores that came from one of the better local parts stores. Remove the bad one, match it up with one in the assortment.
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The problem is if I let the valve core removed too long, the refrigerant and the oil will leak out until empty. This is the reason why I like to have the new valve core with me so I can install it immediately.
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Freon must be recovered from the system before you try to mess with the valves. After you are done, the freon can be reinstalled. See a professional with an AC recovery and charging station.
EDIT: or use the tool shown in the video in post 31
Last edited by ezone; Apr 16, 2016 at 10:46 PM.
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For this, bye bye DIY Thread Starter
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You could most likely pay a shop to vacuum out, store, and replace your freon and then do the rest of the work yourself. OR you could buy a vacuum ($100 at HF) and tank and do DIY. However, how often does the average home mechanic do a/c work? Usually, not enough to warrant the puchase price of vacuum, tank, gauges and whatever else needed.
Also, having that equipment at home is like owning a truck. Your friends or relatives will undoubtedly ask you to help them move (truck) or with HVAC ask you to help them with their a/c issues...Lol.
Also, having that equipment at home is like owning a truck. Your friends or relatives will undoubtedly ask you to help them move (truck) or with HVAC ask you to help them with their a/c issues...Lol.
