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Thin like .002"?
Remove it and reassemble the clutch.
See if it stays engaged in the heat.

 
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I'm not too sure yet if the thickness, but u know it's very thin.
I will take it apart tonight and report the thickness back to you ASAP!
Thanks.

 
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Thickness isn't really important-- if it's the only shim that can be removed, you don't have much choice.
Remove shim, reassemble, and run it.


Your other options are replacement of the clutch set (correct option), or maybe grinding on the hub (hack option IMO, as someone else was posting a couple weeks ago) but it's real easy to grind way too much and cause other problems.

 
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Ha ha, honestly about one month or so ago I did remove the washer totally and ran it, it did not turn off at all. Then somebody told me to put the washer back in as it would create a problem so I did.

 
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Really? CRS over here.
Did we already go through this?
Did it cause the clutch to stay engaged all the time? (that would be bad)

Gap of more than 1mm will cause the compressor clutch to let go when hot even with a good field coil.
Does the coil ohm check ok? (usually 3.5-4 ohm depending on temperature)

 
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Pardon the ignorance of me, but what is CRS?

2 months ago with no washer I ran the vehicle previously for about an hour and a half. In that time I realized that the compressor did not turn off and it created an ice block in the evap coil so I unplugged the relay and put the shim back in. That was before I replaced the control unit in the dash. I did notice today that when I manually turn off AC with either the button or the rheostat switch and clutch disengages, when I push the button back on whether it's immediately or after a few minutes I would hear the clutch engage and disengage when I turned it back off. And it seems that when it's cooler outside the car it would cycle properly turning on and off automatically but when it gets really hot it turns off and doesn't want to come back on. I haven't taken the washer out to measure the thickness yet but I believe it is definitely less than 1 mm possibly 0.5mm. I just had it running perfectly most of the way home so when I just turned off the car I checked the coil and I was reading 2.2 ohms.
Thanks man. Please don't be frustrated with me I'm really trying! Lol...

 
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Can't remember ****.

You said you can push on the clutch ring and it will engage that way, so there has to be power reaching the coil (assuming full battery voltage here, you might want to verify that), so IMO there has to be either too much clearance (air gap) or the magnetic field is weak.


2.2 ohms seems low. Is that accurate?

OK I just checked some actual specs in a FSM......(01-05)
field coil resistance 3.05-3.35 ohms at 68*F (resistance increases as temperature increases)

Can you figure how much clearance there actually is?
Real specs again:
0.50mm +/- 0.15mm
.020" +/- .006"

 
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Maybe it's getting hung up in the shaft somehow with the increase in heat.
I will try testing again the coil today. What exactly were you referring to when you mentioned about hogging out the hub a little.

 
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IF when you removed the shim from the hub it caused the clutch to stay engaged against the pulley all the time, then grinding more material off of the hub is not what you need.


The hub doesn't really ever move on the shaft. The plates outer rings flexes to engage.

 
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When I forced it on by pushing it with my long stick I really had to push on it.
I was expecting it to just kinda suck in gingerly with the coil pulling it in simultaneously and it did but I had to hit the stick and then it went in.

Could there possibly be a problem with over use of this outer ring that flexes you were referring to?

 
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Like not being able to flex? Never seen an issue like that. The outer ring is supported on springs that allow it to move when the electromagnetic field is present.....but the springs have to be strong enough to turn the compressor shaft at the same time, so they are fairly stout.

The issues I see are mostly wear related.

 
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Yes I agree with the wear, but it works and well when it does!
I checked the coil when it was stone cold today and got 3.9ohms @ 71'F. The other day when it was hot I was only getting 2.2ohms. Would the decrease in resistance in the field winding plus increase of heat make it less magnetic? Correct voltage is present.
Could it be the interior controller again you think?

 
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Well....neither are quite in spec.
Since your coils resistance goes DOWN with heat--- your coil might be shorting a winding as it heats up.

Double check that reading when it quits working again just to be sure?
Leave your meter attached and watch if there is a big jump in the reading as the coil cools down?

If a winding is shorting, then the electromagnet would become weaker once that short occurs.

If the coil is made up of (example) 3000 feet of fine wire, and suddenly 1000 feet of that is no longer working as an electromagnet, it's going to be weaker than it's supposed to be.

Not at this point.

 
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I have a rather large auto wrecking yard down the road, I am going to try and get to coils this week and swap one out.

I'll be in touch thanks.

 
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If you don't find one or don't feel like pulling a coil try this place: http://autoaccompressordfw.com/ I just purchasd one for a 6th gen Sanden and it's the correct part. I paid $35 total ($25 part + $10 S&H).

It just arrived today and will be next week when I install it. Will post results.

 
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If you don't find one or don't feel like pulling a coil try this place: http://autoaccompressordfw.com/ I just purchasd one for a 6th gen Sanden and it's the correct part. I paid $35 total ($25 part + $10 S&H).

It just arrived today and will be next week when I install it. Will post results.

 
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Hey fellas I would just like to extend my appreciation to the help I have received from you two gentlemen. Many thanks. As it stands I took out the washer yesterday and re assembled it without putting the washer back. The washer is .59 mm thick. It is now running and cycling correctly but I do know that I may have to install the used coil that I picked up from the wreckers eventually, maybe a fall or winter job provided this holds out.
Cheers and thanks.
Blair😀

 
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.59mm seems like a helluva thick shim, and if I remember correctly you said the last time you removed that shim it caused the clutch to be engaged all the time. (Did I remember wrong again here?)

Different now? Clutch will completely release and not drag nor continue to spin when it is not powered up?

 
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Yes you are correct sir E! It did not turn off before because my interior controller was messed up in side the car. It cycles correctly I feel it come on and off and it also works every time I press that button, now even when it is hot like today's weather up in Toronto 38c. It has not stumbled. It freewheels when it disengages and everything so the coil must be getting week now maybe I should try finding a smaller shim because that is in fact point .59 mm.

 
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No, leave it alone now and see how it goes.

 
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Hi fellas, it's been a week now and the compressor is running and cycling very, very well with no hiccups.
A couple of times this week I had this code 128 coming up as well 139 again. They are both new parts from Honda, what do you think may be happening?
Both tstat and lower o2 are about one month old.
Thanks.
Blair.

 
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P0128, cooling system performance...There's a strange notation saying the code can set if the hood is open while the engine is running.

Is the cooling system full?
Does the fan operate at the correct time? Does it turn off when it is supposed to?
Replace thermostat. You did? Could it be mis-installed? It's inside the gasket slit, not behind the gasket? (I've seen the stat shoved into the hole first, then the rubber gasket shoved in, that's wrong)
Jiggle valve is located at the top, in the cutout area of the gasket, and not stuck open or hung up?

ECT not flaky or inaccurate?

Got a scanner to read live data? Watch coolant temp.

To set the code the coolant would be 158*F or less when the computer estimated it should have been 167*F or higher,

Or anytime the actual ECT reading is at least 18*F below the estimated or expected temp.

There is also a time factor in the PCM calculations, but that is a variable factor and is not explained in detail.

P0139, rear O2 sensor slow response.
Did you check into the software update for this code on your car?
Diag is pretty short, after the usual warmup routine hold engine RPM at 3000 and watch sensor output voltage, and if it stays steady 0.3-0.8v for 2 minutes or longer, then replace sensor.

Ever use any silicone or silicone spray lube around a running engine? That stuff can ruin O2 sensors in a second.

 
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128 was there periodically before head was done. Tstat was done before head job as too was the software update. Coolant is full and no silicone been sprayed.
Maybe Honda reinstalled tstat incorrect. Fans seem to work well.
That's all I have.

Update: I changed the sensor that was throwing the 128 code.
It all seems a ok and have over 200 Kim's since and the ac is working like it should.
Thanks fellas for all your outstanding help!

 
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After installing the new clutch coil a month ago I can confirm it's working well and solved the issue. Thanks for the help Ezone.

 
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Hello ezone and Mr. Ferguson.
I too am proud to say that after 3 weeks I changed the temp sensor at the top left of the engine just above the thermostat, everything has been A-OK!
I only pulled out my scanner once just to make sure that the car was still running correctly. All green lights came up after diagnostics test and that's a go.
Thanks men for the lessons!
Appreciate it!
Blair

 
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Right arm!