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Hey guys! I'm Tom. Just created this account in hopes of getting some input into my problem as it doesn't make sense to me.

Problems started during a drive a month ago. She started over heating as I was pulling into work. After quick inspection, I noticed coolant steaming out from underneath the distributor.

After a tow home, I started her and got the bubbles in the radiator. Safe to assume a head gasket? In hindsight, I should've done a compression test.

Fast forward to now. Remanufactured head, new gasket, head bolts, cam seals, timing belt, water pump, timing cover gaskets, intake and exhaust gaskets, plugs and wires, as well as a new header, and I'm ready to start her up.

She fired up after a lengthy struggle to get fire. I thought bad fuel perhaps. But she finally fired and jumped right up to idle. But she started smoking instantly. The engine hadn't even had time to warm. The piston chambers probably weren't hot yet, and she's spitting smoke. I don't get it?

Compression check showed 90, 60, 120, and 150 in chambers 1-4 respectively. With a new head and gasket, I'm not sure how that's possible. The block can't be cracked or I would've had these symptoms initially right?

I went from getting oil into the coolant, to getting coolant into the oil. I contacted the shop who rebuilt the head and they assured me their procedure requires pressure checks and resurfacing of the head. The only explanation would be a warped block right? I've heard the block is considerably more tolerant to heat than the head so I can't imagine it getting warped. The car has overheated in the past but not to such an extreme level that I think it would harm the block. Any input would be appreciated. I'm going to start tearing her back down shortly. Thanks! - Tom

 
Rep Power: 518

Did you adjust the valves before you tried to fire it up?



Smoke on first run after having a bunch of stuff apart is kind of expected. It should dissipate and quit if all is well.

 
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Yes, valves were adjusted. It's having no problems starting and running now, it just looks like a steam engine.

 
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How bad was it overheated? Real severe can take the spring tension (collapse) out of the rings.

 
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It's hit red on the temp gauge but never went fully into the red. It hit red one night because my fan had failed sometime previously and I hadn't noticed. So as I sat and chatted with someone in their driveway, I left it running and it over heated.

I'm going to test the rings with some oil to be sure they aren't the problem, but I don't think they've failed. The HG failed due to previous overheating and it just finally gave out. She wasn't overheating at the time the gasket actually failed though. The pistons and chambers were in fine shape when I opened her up to replace the head and gasket.

 
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Keep in mind there is no way to tell if the oil control rings are stuck or damaged. They could be completely missing and a compression test would still look ok.
The only way to guess at oil control rings is by the conditions it smokes under.

 
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Piston rings?

 
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It can't be the rings though. It's burning coolant, not oil. With a new head and head gasket, I don't understand how. Have either of you heard of or seen/experienced a warped block? I've heard it's possible but highly unlikely. I'm stumped until I get it apart and put a straight edge on the block.

 
Rep Power: 518

You sure it's coolant? Does it (the smoke) smell like coolant? Is coolant disappearing?


Pressurize the radiator and see which cylinders the coolant ends up in.

If there were a crack in an intake port, coolant might puddle on a valve until it opens.
If a crack is in an exhaust port, you might never see coolant enter a cylinder except maybe when the engine is off.

If the IAC/FITV valve or its gasket leaks, coolant would enter the throttle body and intake manifold.

Random hoses connected, coolant to vacuum?

Bad intake manifold gasket or poor cleaning job might lead to coolant entry if there are coolant passages in the same area.

With the head removed you can spin the crank and stare at the cylinder walls on all 4 cylinders.

I've seen more than one Honda engine hot enough to melt aluminum in the head without measured damage (warp) to the block deck, so I would not expect warpage on your deck. I would expect ring problems if it got that hot though.

Poor cleaning techniques can ruin the surfaces of the head and block, someone using a gasket grinder can easily cause low spots that a gasket can't seal.

A badly machined surface on the head can cause the head gasket to not seal. If the engine is using an MLS gasket, the machined surfaces need to be as smooth as glass. Some machine shops leave a finish like a belt sander hit it and think it's all good (I send my heads to a town an hour away because of this)




I'd suspect a head problem. Why didn't you just have your old head fixed?

Did you do any checking on this head before installation?
Liquid check on the valves to make sure they can seal good, and measure for warpage?

 
Rep Power: 367

mine smoked until the next day, then it cleared the remaining residues.

however, your compression numbers are low.

 
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Yeah, I once bought and rebuilt a Quad4 that had dumped a gallon or more of coolant into the exhaust...... It didn't really start smoking good until I took it out on the road, and oh what a huge cloud it made once I put my foot in it.

Good times!

 
Rep Power: 367

in other words, run it for a while. you might have some coolant still in somewhere.

 
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I initially suspected I may have connected a coolant hose to the wrong spot on the intake manifold and hoped that was the case. The compression test made me think otherwise. It's losing coolant. I'll pressurize the system but I figure it will make it's way into cylinders 1 and 2 since their numbers were so low.

I did clean the block with a wire disc on a cordless drill and thought that maybe I did create a low spot on the block. I cleaned the top of cylinders 3 and 4 damn good as well as the block. Cylinders 1 and 2, I wasn't as aggressive for the reason you stated. I didn't want to cut into the metal and create a low spot. Could that be the issue? I didn't clean the mating surface thoroughly? That would be an easy fix! Either way, I'm taking it back apart so it will get cleaned thoroughly this time.

 
Rep Power: 518

PROVE where the problems are before taking it apart.....so you have an idea where to look after it is taken apart.

Pressure testing and inspection on the cooling system, and cylinder leak down testing to find out where the compression loss is actually going.

It's tough to do the testing after it's all apart.

 
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And I was referring to Roloc bristle discs and Scotch Brite discs on a die grinder for ruining head and block surfaces.

Personally I prefer to use single edge razor blades and or a sharp gasket scraper tool.