Rep Power: 254

My layout on the fog light switch is as follows: They aren't labeled unfortunately (pin 5 is under pin 4 not pin 1)

1 2 3 4
5

Pin 1: Switch Off: No Continuity
Switch On: Continuity on number 3 (0 ohms), number 5 (25 ohms)

Pin 2: Switch Off: No Continuity
Switch On: No Continuity

Pin 3: Switch Off: continuity on pin 5 (25 ohms)
Switch On:continuity on pin 1 (5 ohms), continuity on pin 5 (25 ohms)

Pin 4: Switch Off: No Continuity
Switch On: No Continuity

Pin 5: Switch Off: Continuity Pin 4 (25 ohms)
Switch On: Continuity pin 1 (25 ohms), continuity on pin 3 (25 ohms)

Hopefully this is what you were looking for, sorry once again for the confusion. I am a newb with electricity.

 
Rep Power: 291

i'll have to look at the schematic when i get home, but it looks like 1 and 3 may be the mechanical contact of the switch. what wire colors are on them?

 
Rep Power: 254

1 is red/yellow and 3 is red/blue

 
Rep Power: 254

bump, anyone knows electric?

 
Rep Power: 254

Can I ask. In the OEM Harness, which wire is the blue wire?

 
Rep Power: 812

blue wire should be the low volt trigger coming from the headlamp lo beam switch. when its hot, the switch becomes functional. so this only allows fog usage when lo beams are on. when park lights or hi beams are used, lo beam turns off and so does the blue trigger.

 
Rep Power: 254

Which one is the blue wire in the OEM switch. Which spot is it in does anyone know?

 
Rep Power: 254

Update: With pictures, if anyone can help me I will rep you!! What color do I have where the blue trigger wire should be?

 
Rep Power: 254

Is my switch and harness OEM can anyone verify this? Looking at the first picture I posted, is the blue wire at the top right of the plug on the corner, if you were holding the plug in that position?

 
Rep Power: 812

switch is oem for sure, im not sure but prolly the harness too. if you are looking for the trigger, you need to test each wire with a multimeter to see which one gets 12v with the headlight lo beams turned on, but nothing with headlight off. its gonna be a different wire depending on your year and model of car. get a multimeter, set it to measure 12v, put the black probe to the ground, and one by one stick the red probe into each wire on the connector to measure voltage. im not sure which wire is the ground on that connector, mine had a black wire, perhaps one of your wires has a black stripe and that would be ground.

 
Rep Power: 254

the one that had voltage was the one in the top right, but there is two wires there which one do I connect to power? or do I connect both?

 
Rep Power: 812

you need to test each wire separately then. whichever one gets 12v with headlight on is the one you have to cut. you cut the wire, then attach a new wire to the switch side of the old wire. attach the other end of the new wire to your preferred trigger source like 12v socket or dash lights. tape off the other end of the old wire (not the switch side). i dont know why you have so many wires like that on the harness?

 
Rep Power: 812

hold on, im checking thru my electrical manual...

 
Rep Power: 812

okay here is all it says for the switch, 01-04 civic. red and red/blk are power and ground for the dash light portion of the switch (lights up the fog symbol). blk is a ground for the indicator light when the switch is active. blu is the input power wire, and red/yel is the output wire to the actual fog light bulbs. the red/yel wire is also a low volt wire that triggers a relay to supply power to the bulbs. so if you re-route the red/yel wire to the parking light, the fog switch would be bypassed, and the fogs would turn on whenever the park lights were used. this is why the blu wire should be used, so that the switch still operates normally. sorry i cant be of any more help. thats all the book says, and thats how my oem harness looks. and it only has 5 wires.

 
Rep Power: 254

So I have to cut each wire and try it? I was trying to avoid it, and just cut the right wire. I mean its not a big deal to splice the wire back together incase I get the wrong one, but I just figure doing it the correct way was always better.

 
Rep Power: 812

when testing, you just have to shave a bit of the plastic off to expose enough wire to touch the probe to. only cut the wire once you figure out the correct one. its possible both might give the same 12v reading. and put e-tape over the slightly cut wire whichever is the wrong one.