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Wow didn't realize this would cause a debate over the "correct" way to do the install....well we still have the fender bolt problem but that is due to a lack of time since both my son and I get home late from work during the week and will look at it again this weekend.

As far as the amp's power cable, that was run on the passenger side of the car and thru the firewall to connect to the battery. All other wires were run thru the drivers side to avoid any type of interference, etc.

As far as using existing wiring, that would have been impossible since we installed new tweeters, woofers and crossovers in each door.

Removing the fender (will just being able to pull it back some to get our hands in) was the only way we could reach the door boot where it entered the inside of the car.

Rear seats were removed so that we could attach a mounting board onto the back of the seat (under the existing carpeting) upon which we will mount the amplifier. Taking the back seats out were not a problem so that we could run the wiring neatly along with the existing wiring.

Sorry no photos were taken during all of this (should've thought of that while we were doing it)!

Thanks to all for the many ideas and offers of help. We'll let you know how we get the broken bolt out and if we ever get the two remaining bolts into the fender again (may have to bite the bullet on those and bring it to the dealer).

 
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Just got a chance to get back onto the forum and I'm happy to say that the amp was installed and everything works great!

Thanks again to everyone who offered their assistance and maybe I can do the same for someone else.

 
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sorry to revive a dead post.....
But I'm in need of running 2 pairs of wires to each door in my 98 honda civic ex and it looks pretty impossible to be able to access the door boot without removing the front fenders. Is that the only way to wire door speakers?

No, I cannot use the factory wires since I'm using 2 channels of amplifier per door. (1 for the tweeter and 1 for the 6 1/2 via active crossover setup)

Thanks

 
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well what i can suggest is how i have done it on a few different 2001 down civics find yourself some stiff mechanics wire unplug everything the harness is connected to in your door reach in between the door and jam with some pliers and pull the rubber gromet out from the car side cut the electric tape off around the wires and pull the wires from the door at the same time sliding the grommet towards you it'll be tight but it will give you room to work with it (w/o cutting or breaking the wires), now remove the lower kick panel, and the lower dash on drivers side glove box on passnger, take your mechanic wire rap it in electric tape (saves scratching paint and short circuiting anything, you may also want to add tape to door and fender) bend the wire straight (about 3 1/2 ft) with a slight downward curve feed that through the whole in the chassis and reach into the other side and feel around while feeding the wire (easier with 2 people) until you feel the wire, pull it where you can easily get your hands on it in the next step.
take your wire that you will be using cut it a foot longer than you need it to be and tape it securely to the mechanics wire (as straight and flat as possible you may have to make a hook with the mech wire) and pull it through the whole from the inside or outside ( depending on which end ya taped it to (its easier to pull from the inside and be too short on the inside) be careful as to not lose the wire, then bam cut the original speaker wires pull them out run your new wires (huge wires are not necessary, especially for tweeters 18-22 is fine for those ) i like to use individual red, black, white, black white stripe wires to hook up speakers especially in tight situations where you need to keep wire diameters down, most speaker wires are oversized and bulky which is not necessary in most non competition low interference systems, but anyways back to it feed the wires ends on the out side through the grommets , using some wd 40 as a lubricant makes this process smoother, moving the grommet back towards the chassis over the wires , feed the new wires through the door grommet and pull through. With a screwdriver or like tool work the grommets back into the door and the chassis without puncturing. take a strip electric tape(and somone with small and hands and some patience) and wind it around the wires some liquid electric tape will close up the ends of the boots nicely your ready to wire amp and speakers

*note= all wire connections should be soldered have shrink tube over the connections
* leave enough wire to work with
*there is a foam piece behind the boot , remove it and then replace it when done
* there is around 5-7 inches of wire between the door and chassis when you start , make sure there is that much when you finish
*its easier to do then write so play with it a bit and find your way


hope this helps

 
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wow typo central , ok next time less about content and more about spelling

 
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thanks for the detailed post. It definitely helped!