MegaHurtz

iTrader: (6)

I am going to start my new install soon, and I wanna build a box that is firing into the cabin from the trunk. preferably as sealed off as possible.. it doesn't have to be flush with the back seat (ie it doesnt have to be on the same angle)... what I am thinking so far is to make a base for the box to sit on that is raised to the same level as that bump on the back seat, then make the base so it covers the top part of that lip so I can secure the box down... then make the box, sit it ont he base, and build around it to make a frame for the back seat to try and seal it off...

any other ideas?

J187

I'm with you so far with the bump and the base. I'm not quite sure what you mean by seal it off. Seal what from what?

MegaHurtz

iTrader: (6)

from the trunk

like I want hte subs and port firing into the car, but I want the rest of the trunk (beside and behind the box) to be sealed off from the cabin

PopcornPlaya

iTrader: (6)

Remove everything (rear deck and all that noise) down to the metal skin. Fiberglass the entire rear deck with about 6 layers (To toatlly seal it). Cut your front beauty board and glass it to the skin where it goes into the rear... sand all that **** down and reinstall the plastic stuff. From there you can build from within the trunk.

profuse007

show some pic you stole this idea from.....

JK, link some pics.
btw, 6 freakin layers is a lot of glass. why not use aerosil/cabosil w/ resin to build it up?

PopcornPlaya

iTrader: (6)

6 layers isn't a lot of glass if you buy what they have at auto0 stores, etc, it's not until you order heavier glass that it's thick. That's what people that go IB do. A guy on here has done this, and he used 6 layers. It takes probably an hour or so to lay up the entire rear deck and a few hours to a full day to cure. You mix the resin with slightly less hardener to extend working time, and lay up all of the layers at once. The cutting of the beauty board was my idea, and one I've used on another vehicle before.

J187

Just a warning, you won't be able to race your Civic afterward

profuse007

you can lay it up to that much to give its potential outcome, but when using cabosil w/ resin it thicken up the resin so you can build it up faster and less layers. the result is saving resin and time. some ppl thicken the glass by adding more resin and spread it but resin drips and it doesnt stay in one area.

J187

You know, I've been thinking about this. I think that you do in fact need to make the enclosure's front baffle the same angle as the baffle you are firing through into the cabin. Otherwise, you will get sound waves reflecting off the baffle back off the trunk lid and cancelling as they come into the cabin. perfectly sealing off the cabin and the right angle would eliminate this. Just a thought.

J187

This is what I mean

NoiSe

^ now how would you get the angles right??

ncirom2003

iTrader: (7)

why not fire it towards the trunk then it amplifies off the lid and is louder when it hits u

circa3182

Are you looking to do something like my system by chance?

J187

He says in his original post that he want's to face them into the cabin for whatever reason. Perhaps he's tried it and it works better. Not all woofers sound better firing back. Some sound better firing front in some cars. For instance, the old-school Solo-barics sounded much better in Most trunks firing at the seats.

Just try and match the angle of the baffle as best you can with the enclosure front panel. So, in other words, it's best to seal the trunk from the cabin with a baffle matching the angle of the front panel of the enclosure. That'll minimize the reflecting waves from even making the trip back to the lid. Pretty easy thing to test too. If you can open and close your trunk without effecting the sound on front firing woofers, you got it right. If opening the trunk makes the bass louder, that means there are waves that were reflecting and cancelling in the cabin and now that you've opened the trunk they are headed toward the moon and stars instead of bouncing off the deck.