Rep Power: 99

'05 EX (Canadian Built), AUTOMATIC, ALUMINUM Oil Pan

Just removed my oil pan to get to the oil pump and thought I'd share my experience in case it might help someone else down the road. Most of what I read stated to simply move the exhaust out of the way and remove the pan. YEAH RIGHT!! There are many more steps than that! So here is a rough outline:

1. Remove exhaust downpipe
- disconnect front O2 sensor from inside engine bay. Remove wiring from routing hangers/brackets.
- disconnect rear O2 sensor from under car. Remove wiring from routing hangers
- remove the two spring bolts attached to the manifold. If you live in the rust belt like me, these are heavily rusted. First spray both sides liberally with penetrating oil. Let sit for a while.
- you will need a 12mm socket and a long extension. If you have a good impact wrench, USE IT! They should zip right off. Else, use a LONG breaker bar and loosen carefully
- I recommend using NEW bolts and springs upon re-assembly
- remove rubber insulator from hanger near middle of exhaust
- swing exhaust out of the way and support it on something so it doesn't hang down too far

2. Remove Stiffening Brackets
- there are two engine-to-trans stiffening brackets. Just remove all the bolts (I believe they are 12mm and 15mm bolts)

3. Remove Covers
- there are two covers for the cable that routes toward the rear of the car. I believe this is the transmission shift cable. There are two or three bolts holding each one on.

4. Remove Shifter Cable
- the end of this cable is connected to a small shaft coming out of the auto trans. It is secured by a small 10mm nut. The nut is locked in place with a small piece of sheet metal.
- carefully pry the locking metal away from the 10mm nut with a small flathead screwdriver
- remove the 10mm nut
- slide the cable straight off the shaft
- there is a bracket that holds the cable to the underbody with a large rubber insulator. It's really in there. Use a pry bar or large screwdriver to pry it out of the bracket.
- Move the cable out of the way

5. Remove the Flywheel/Trans Inspection Cover
- There should be only one more bolt holding it on still. Remove the bolt. I believe it's a 10mm. Remove the cover.

6. Drain the Oil
- if you haven't done this already, do it. Should be obvious.

7. Remove the Bolts and Nuts Holding the Pan to the Block.
- at this point, you should have clear access to all the bolts and nuts holding on the oil pan
- they are 10mm nuts and bolts. There should be 10 nuts and 8 bolts. The nuts are held onto studs and are located on the ends and in the middle (4 on each end, 2 in the middle)
- if you have a simple impact driver (NOT WRENCH), then you can zip them all off quickly. Else just use a ratchet and extension. Start on the ends and work toward the middle.
- the pan should still be held up by the RTV sealant

8. Remove the Pan from the Block
- IMPORTANT -- there are pry points on every corner of the aluminum pan. USE THEM! One is hard to get to (rear passenger corner), but all you need is two or three. Pry gently with a good pry bar. The RTV seal should break nicely.

When you get it removed, it may be best to let it sit underneath the block for a bit since a little oil will still be dripping down (depending on how long it's been sitting there). Or just dab all over with clean rag.

*** Sorry no pics. This isn't the most thorough HOW-TO, rather it's just meant as a "heads up" to anyone before they tackle this job. It takes a little more time than you may expect.

 
Rep Power: 222

Nice write-up, moved to DIY section +1 rep.
Feel free to add pictures if you have any

 
Rep Power: 99

I finally got around to taking pics...


Front stiffener bracket - 3 bolts


Front gear selector cable cover - 2 bolts


Rear stiffener bracket - 3 bolts


Rear gear selector cable cover - 2 bolts


Gear selector cable linkage and trans inspection cover


Gear selector cable holding bolt - 10mm. Move locking tab away from bolt head with small screwdriver or razor blade.


Gear selector cable grommet. Use a pry bar or large screwdriver.

With all of that removed, the trans inspection cover will come right out.

You should now have access to all the nuts and bolts holding the oil pan to the engine.

 
Rep Power: 50

Thank you for this. This needs to be sticky.

I am totally stuck at the moment. Pan is free but too much in the way and that inspection cover won’t come out. Those two nuts that are hidden behind the cover should be mentioned here, just sayin.

I can’t figure out how to remove the inspection cover but it seems that removing the trans shift cover and cable will free it up?