Inner brake pad isn't fitting into caliper bracket
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Inner brake pad isn't fitting into caliper bracket
Currently trying to figure out a way to get the inner brake pad into the caliper bracket. The outer pad went in fine, the inner just seems to have too much height to it.
For reference here are the pads I purchased:
The bracket which houses the pads was very rusty. I sanded down the indentations which hold in the metal shims in place and lubed the back, top and bottom of the pad. I am considering either returning them or filing down the top and/or bottom of the inner pads. Would like to hear second opinions on this issue.
Thanks
For reference here are the pads I purchased:
The bracket which houses the pads was very rusty. I sanded down the indentations which hold in the metal shims in place and lubed the back, top and bottom of the pad. I am considering either returning them or filing down the top and/or bottom of the inner pads. Would like to hear second opinions on this issue.
Thanks
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Re: Inner brake pad isn't fitting into caliper bracket
Supposed to fit, maybe wrong part in the box?
Possible poor quality control and literally stamped out the part to big?
Last edited by Slumpertcivic; Jan 26, 2018 at 10:48 PM.
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The outer pad went in fine, the inner just seems to have too much height to it.
If it does fit, your caliper bracket probably still has too much rust.
If it does not fit, then the pad would seem to be the problem. See last line
The bracket which houses the pads was very rusty. I sanded down the indentations which hold in the metal shims in place
When you have this kind of rust scale buildup, you need to grind it down to bare shiny steel (sand, file, wire wheel, whatever tools you have to use). Then grease the fresh shiny steel so it doesn't rust right away.
Also use a good wire wheel on the back of the shims since they get coated in rust too.
All that rust takes up space because it swells, and causes pads to bind or not go in at all.
If you've done this all correctly, IMO I wouldn't have a problem filing a little off the edge of the pad ear that's causing the hang up. Just remember to apply a little moly grease (or similar) on the freshly exposed metal of the pad.
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Thing is, the outer pad went in fine. It appears that they are the correct pads. I've read about a few isolated cases where people had to file down a pad, although that's also the type of search terms I put into google. I don't know how common an issue this is. The bracket that holds the pads in was a rusted quite badly.
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Swap pad positions: does the pad that didn't fit in the inboard side, fit in the outboard position?
If it does fit, your caliper bracket probably still has too much rust.
If it does not fit, then the pad would seem to be the problem. See last line
How much sanding?
When you have this kind of rust scale buildup, you need to grind it down to bare shiny steel (sand, file, wire wheel, whatever tools you have to use). Then grease the fresh shiny steel so it doesn't rust right away.
Also use a good wire wheel on the back of the shims since they get coated in rust too.
All that rust takes up space because it swells, and causes pads to bind or not go in at all.
[img]https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.civicforums.com-vbulletin/2000x1493/80-r2efzod_893fdec948478ce0a4c94a6efd1c11e38fa1bcf0.j pg[/img
If you've done this all correctly, IMO I wouldn't have a problem filing a little off the edge of the pad ear that's causing the hang up. Just remember to apply a little moly grease (or similar) on the freshly exposed metal of the pad.
If it does fit, your caliper bracket probably still has too much rust.
If it does not fit, then the pad would seem to be the problem. See last line
How much sanding?
When you have this kind of rust scale buildup, you need to grind it down to bare shiny steel (sand, file, wire wheel, whatever tools you have to use). Then grease the fresh shiny steel so it doesn't rust right away.
Also use a good wire wheel on the back of the shims since they get coated in rust too.
All that rust takes up space because it swells, and causes pads to bind or not go in at all.
[img]https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.civicforums.com-vbulletin/2000x1493/80-r2efzod_893fdec948478ce0a4c94a6efd1c11e38fa1bcf0.j pg[/img
If you've done this all correctly, IMO I wouldn't have a problem filing a little off the edge of the pad ear that's causing the hang up. Just remember to apply a little moly grease (or similar) on the freshly exposed metal of the pad.
The car has no brake fluid right now, I plan on doing the brakes first then poring in the brake fluid.
When I took out the pads they were worn down pretty badly. Before I knew about the fluid being low I tried driving it and the pedal just went straight to the floor and the car gradually stopped. When I got it back home, the brake fluid was 0%. First thing I thought to do was the brakes seeing as they are the first culprit. No oil on the floor or anything like that. It seems entirely related to worn brake pads.
When doing this job is there any sort of adjustments after I put the brake rotor and pads and and tighten up all the bolts? This is the first time changing brakes and I talked to someone telling me I need to adjust the brakes by backing up and pumping the emergency brake up and down. Then another person told me I have to adjust some clicking mechanism in the back of the car. Would appreciate any advice/help on this.
Last edited by sdaidoji; Jan 27, 2018 at 07:56 AM.
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If the brake fluid is empty then there’s a leak. Follow brake lines from master cylinder to locate the leak..
Brake pads being worn. The fluid will get low in master cylinder but should never be empty...
Isolate that first then worry about adjusting the rear brakes. I assume the rear brakes are drum brakes since you mention adjusting?
Brake pads being worn. The fluid will get low in master cylinder but should never be empty...
Isolate that first then worry about adjusting the rear brakes. I assume the rear brakes are drum brakes since you mention adjusting?
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I took out the pads
I tried driving it and the pedal just went straight to the floor
the brake fluid was 0%
I tried driving it and the pedal just went straight to the floor
the brake fluid was 0%
You probably need to replace the front calipers, if the pistons have been pushed all the way out to the point they allowed fluid to dump.
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If the brake fluid is empty then there’s a leak. Follow brake lines from master cylinder to locate the leak..
Brake pads being worn. The fluid will get low in master cylinder but should never be empty...
Isolate that first then worry about adjusting the rear brakes. I assume the rear brakes are drum brakes since you mention adjusting?
Brake pads being worn. The fluid will get low in master cylinder but should never be empty...
Isolate that first then worry about adjusting the rear brakes. I assume the rear brakes are drum brakes since you mention adjusting?
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Why do the calipers need replacing?
The brake fluid isn't entirely out, I spoke too soon. I posted pictures previously on where it is currently at. It has black fluid up until the "min" mark. When I took out the calipers and placed the c-clamp on there to compress it, the caliper piston was out about a half-inch, does that sound irregular?
Also, I filed down/used wire brushed on the indentations which hold on the shims. The brake pads now slides in there smoothly. Hopefully not too smoothly though. They seemed almost loose.
After I finish putting the pads in and tightening all the bolts is there any needed adjustments to this job?
Last edited by dex03civ; Jan 27, 2018 at 12:30 PM.
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Not all the fluid came out, it appears that it went down until the "min" mark. Will the brakes still need to be bled at this point? And after I install the pads and tighten everything up, I was going to top of the brake fluid to the "max" level.
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either get someone to help you with pumping or buy/build a one man bleeding tool
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as ezone said, yes. bleed them.
during the time it is disassembled, somehow sometimes the air gets in. It's good to replace fluids every year or two years.
(fluid sucks moisture from air and will eventually boil during braking more easily with more water)
during the time it is disassembled, somehow sometimes the air gets in. It's good to replace fluids every year or two years.
(fluid sucks moisture from air and will eventually boil during braking more easily with more water)
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Alright, I got the brakes all back on. Got the pads in there. Put the caliper back on and tightened those bolts. Fluid in the brake reservoir hasn't been topped off yet. At this point should I pour in some brake fluid. Then after that start bleeding the brakes?
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There must be enough fluid that it does not allow the master to suck air at any time.
Did the reservoir level rise as you pushed the caliper pistons in?
Have you pumped up the brake pedal yet and check if it feels okay?
Recheck level after pumping the pedal up?
Did the reservoir level rise as you pushed the caliper pistons in?
Have you pumped up the brake pedal yet and check if it feels okay?
Recheck level after pumping the pedal up?
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