Rep Power: 0

After two tear-downs due overheating problems to replace gaskets and piston rings, check everything else, I believe threads on bolt 3 are destroyed. It was super hard to tighten and then it just blew up, and it would not tighten anymore.




I found a post somewhere else that had great information about fixing threads, and a great solution was using TIME-SERTs. I have a 04' LX manual with the D17a1 and they recommended this kit, . I basically only need to know if that is all I need, besides a power drill of course. Would this be the right kit? There's another one on TIME-SERT, kit #10129 website but it's $524+tax.

Has anyone had a project like this before? I saw a on YouTube for an example, but I believe the guy is using the premium kit or something which is 400-500 USD, which I'm not spending just to fix a thread. Would I be able to fix it just with that Amazon kit?

As for backstory, I may have overcomplicated things. Ran engine hot about 3-4 times in a row to try and get home. It was possibly just a stuck thermostat that I replaced. But running it hot caused head bending so they had to be taken to a machine shop. Block was not bent thankfully but heads were super bent condition according to machine shop. I decided to replace everything first so I did, water pump and timing belt, head gasket, coils, spark plugs, almost everything from the engine. After first "rebuild" nothing changed, I was sure the engine had no compression after asking on a Facebook group and for how it sounded. Opened it up a second time to find piston rings stuck on all pistons except piston 4. After that and when trying to put everything back together, the block head bolt #3 failed on me. It was a little hard from the previous time so I knew it was wrong. I almost gave up but since you can actually fix threads I'm still up to the task if possible.

 
Rep Power: 511

I tried on my 2002 but failed. The block might've been heat stressed too much for the repair to work, though. It had been overheating and leaking coolant badly, and I put it off because I didn't have the time to address it until it became a bad problem.

Backstory: saw active stem leakage from my block, and I just so happened to have a real weekend, so I put the time aside to fix it. Replaced the head gasket, had a head (milled flat already) laying around, so I swapped everything over and replaced the head gasket. Went to torque all the head bolts down, and 3 stripped out on the first round of torque (14ft-lbs). Used my dad's car to find a helicoil set around Vegas, and about 5 hours of searching, came up with the proper M10x1.25 kit. I fixed the 3 that stripped out and 2 that seemed close to wanting to strip. In hindsight, I should have slowed way the hell down when tapping the block and inserting the helicoils. Got it all back together, first round of torque, everything passed. Went for 2nd round of torque, 2 of the fixed ones failed, and one that was left untouched stripped out. I called it quits on that car after that.

Things I would've done differently:

1. slow way the hell down and take my time.
2. not put off a big problem like that
3. slow. way. the. hell. down.

If you wanna read about that saga.
https://www.civicforums.com/forums/3...-gasket-2.html

 
Rep Power: 224

The only time I've used a helicoil was to fix the timing belt tensioner bolt hole on an '03. It survived the 33 ft/lbs of torque but I'm still not sure how much I'd trust it. Put a few hundred miles on that car then sold it. I can't imagine using one for a head bolt.

 
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Dang, I saw not to use heli coils, to just avoid them.

I'll check out the post, I've been not active since I found out the head bolt was stripped.

Do you know if the kit is all I need? That was my main question since I don't know if I need that one or the other one from the official website, which is more expensive.

 
Rep Power: 210

Several years ago I used a heli-coil to fix a head bolt receiving thread on a D16 engine (1999 Civic EX model). It was still holding strong after three years when I sold the car. The difference between a helicoil and Time-Sert is that a Time-Sert will tolerate repeat repairs, but a heli-coil is often a one-time use in a situation such as the torque required for head gasket fastening. Still, if it's done right it should last a long time. I

Before drilling into the block I measured the depth of the head bolt receiving hole with a screwdriver to the point where it bottoms out. I wrapped (blue painter's) tape around the screwdriver shaft correlating to the top of the block.I measured the depth from the tape on the screwdriver shaft to the tip of the screwdriver. I can't remember what that depth was, but it it did two things for me 1) allowed me to know how far I can drill into the block without drilling past the factory bolt hole depth, 2) showed that I could use one and half heli-coils stacked on top of each other (which is fine to do per the manufacturer). Just have to use a very good set of snips to cut the second/top (stacked) heli-coil to the desire length.

I wrapped painter's tape around the drill bit at the height/depth that I acquired from the screwdriver's depth measurement so I wouldn't drill past factory depth into the block. I also used tape to wrap around the tapping bit (supplied with helicoil kit) at the same height/depth that I used on the drill bit to serve as a stopping point. I used a small wet/dry vacuum and (electrical) taped (sealed) a straw to the end of the vacuum hose to suction out metal shavings form the head bolt receiving hole during drilling and tapping. After vacuuming I used an air compressor attachment to blow into the bolt hole to further help clean it. I also used brake cleaner spray in the bolt hole followed by compressed air and vacuuming to get it as clean and dry as possible. It's imperative to get the bolt hole as clean and dry as possible and ideally it's best to use a thread chaser after drilling and tapping. However, in my case I couldn't find one that would work correctly at the time.

After I was satisfied the bolt hole was properly cleaned I used a light coating of red color thread locker on the outside of the Heli-coils during their installation and allowed for the manufacturer's suggested cure time of the thread locker before installing the head gasket/cylinder-head/head bolts. The red thread locker (do not use blue thread locker) will help keep the coils in place during head bolt installation and prevent the coils from backing out. I my engine's case, as I mentioned prior I was able to stack roughly one and half heli-coils on top of each other, but that may vary on the D17 engine. My thinking was the more threads available for the head bolt the better it will hold up.

Some tips are to:
1) Be patient and take your time during this repair as xRiCeBoYX suggested.
2) Use a low speed when drilling into the block. Try to keep the drill/drill bit as straight as possible to avoid an unwanted angle into the block. You will likely have to drill down a bit and then reverse removing (suction and or compressed air) the metal shaving before drilling forward again. You may (likely) have to use honing oil to keep the drill bit from binding. However, honing oil will make the metal shavings a bit harder to remove and you will want to use brake cleaner spray as well as suction and compressed air to remove the shavings.
3) Same as above for the tapping part of this repair. Very critical to get the threads cut straight with the tap bit. Go forward a few turns then back out to remove shaving (vacuum/compressed air)..repeat this process about every three or four turns,
4) Besides the bolt hole being repaired clean the rest of the bolt holes with the brake cleaner spray + compressed air + suction as mentioned above. To repeat, it's imperative to get the bolt hole threads as clean (debris-free) and dry as possible prior to head bolt installation.
5) Clean the head bolt threads with a brass brush (brass doesn't scratch metal surfaces, but metal brushes will). Home Depot sells a good one (orange rubber handle).
6) Lightly coat the head bolt threads (not the block's receiving threads) with motor oil prior to installation.

This guy gives great tips. The low compression he mentions doesn't always apply. However, it's always a good idea to do a dry/wet compression test before removing a cylinder head. If there is low compression in two adjacent cylinders it points to a head gasket crack between those two cylinders. If there is low compression in just one cylinder that is not due to a head gasket (leaking piston ring or intake/exhaust valve) Also, via a compression test and/or leak-down test one can assess the health of an engine to find out if there is a deeper issue than just a head gasket replacement needed. In example why go through the work of removing a cylinder head if there is a deeper issue such as compression ring loss.

 
Rep Power: 210

If the repair goes well it's a good idea to change oil as soon as possible to ensure ridding any coolant that might be sitting at the bottom of the oil pan. Coolant can erode engine internals and even though your engine oil probably didn't have the "frothy milkshake" coolant in the oil appearance, it likely has some as the bottom of the oil pan you cannot see. Also, follow the steps listed in your car's service manual to properly bleed air from the coolant.
If you haven't already done so, you may want to consider replacing the thermostat prior to the head gasket installation. Use Honda genuine (oem) parts only for best results.

 
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Thanks for all of the info guys, as a super simple question, is that the only kit from Time Sert I need? That's what's stopping me right now, not sure if I need more stuff.