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Mechanical Problems/Vehicle Issues and Fix-it ForumIf you've got a problem you just can't figure out, a noise you can't diagnose, or a Check Engine Light that won't go away, ask about it here!
Got broken head bolt...or maybe loose head bolts?
Was it a Honda head gasket...or aftermarket?
Poor finish on the head machining the last time? (A local machine shop ruins every head we send)
I find it easier to remove the alternator through the headlight hole. It takes me all of 5 minutes to take off the bumper and take out the headlight. I'm not a pro in a shop, and I'm in no real rush, so anything to give me extra maneuverability, I'll do.
One thing that was a bit disconcerting. I have head studs, and I checked torque after 2000 miles and again at 5000 miles after installing. The disconcerting thing was 2 of them took zero effort to loosen when I was taking the head off.
The ones at number 5 and 6 were the ones in question. However, all the signs of leakage were on cylinder 1, whereas the ones in question are below and above cylinders 2 and 3, respectively.
The machine shop I take my heads to haven't failed me yet. I blame myself for allowing slight overheating conditions both when I had water passage leakage and this last time for not taking action.
As far as the gasket I used, for head gasket, I've used nothing but Honda OEM from either Majestic or the local dealership.
Would it be safe to helicoil the head bolt holes? If not, I'm gonna blow my car up.
Are any actually stripped?
Sure, it's an iron block. If you can find the appropriate thread size and it doesn't look like it will be scary thin, go for it.
(SOME engines have unusual size head bolts)
Also, time-sert is a great thread insert IMO but probably more expensive to start with a whole kit
Hrm.. You have me second guessing myself. I'll have to check tomorrow.
In any case, I'm gonna have to figure out how to either helicoil it or timesert the affected holes. Timesert seems like a better fix, but I'd have to get crafty with installing them since the threads are about... a half in deep, and the timesert is designed to sit flush with the surface..
In any case, I'm gonna have to figure out how to either helicoil it or timesert the affected holes. Timesert seems like a better fix, but I'd have to get crafty with installing them since the threads are about... a half in deep, and the timesert is designed to sit flush with the surface..
On my old D16Y8 (6th gen) one of the head bolt block hole's was stripped. I drilled out, tapped the block hole and used one and a half helicoils (M10 x 1.25 kit IIRC) one on top of the other. I called the manufacturer and a tech said it's okay to stack them that way. He also said it's okay to use red thread locker to keep them in place if the head needs to be removed and replaced in the future. I wanted to get as many coils on the head-bolt threads as possible and stacking them accomplished that.
Not sure if the depth from the top of the deck downward on a D17 is the same as a D16? Hopefully it is.
Howd you get the other helicoil all the way in? They're ranged at the bottom to help install the bolt, no? Just snip one and use a scribe or something to drive it in?
Howd you get the other helicoil all the way in? They're ranged at the bottom to help install the bolt, no? Just snip one and use a scribe or something to drive it in?
Man, I can barely recall what I did last week let alone three years ago when I did that head gasket..lol.
1) IIRC: I used a small diameter drill bit to measure depth from top of deck, used a ruler to measure depth in millimeters from above mentioned drill bit.
2) When using the recommended sized drill bit listed on the helicoil kit I used tape to mark the depth in millimeters (from #1) to mark stopping point.
3) I used the same measurement (from #1) and tape on the tap tool to mark stopping point.
4) I used the same measurement (from #1) to mark the length of total stacked helicoil..which ended up as roughly one and a half. Unfortunately, I can't remember whether I inserted the 1/2 sized one or the fulled sized one in first. I cut the (half) coil with a very good quality Craftsman small dyke tool: https://c.shld.net/rpx/i/s/i/spin/im...&wid=64&qlt=50
As far as the tangs I think I suctioned them out with my good ole' (20 years old) Kirby vacuum.
You could call whoever manufacturer's helicoils and ask them if they have longer ones (single piece) in the same diameter and pitch needed. PDF chart: http://www.helicoil.in/pdf/HeliCoil%20Catalogue.pdf
Installed 5 helicoils: 3 to repair already damaged holes and 2 as a preemptive measure for 2 questionable ones. All 10 survived round 1 of training. 2 repairs holes failed round 2, as did a third unaltered hole.
Nope.. I'm taking this as a sign to move on. I have a buddy in cincy that is heavily considering buying it off me as a project track car. I'd force him to join the forum to keep us updated on my fallen baby. lol
Sad news. You have 17k posts and I assume they're from your 7th gen ownership. You've dedicated a lot of time and energy to this generation of civic. I sometimes see mint low mileage (50-70k) manual coupes and sedans going for somewhere around $3000 here. Maybe worth finding one of those?
Domestic maybe? C5 vettes are a prime pick for collectors at the moment. "price per performance" is really solid on them right now. Probably start seeing them increase in price soon.
10-06-2017
