Rep Power: 0

I replaced the CPS on my daughter's '01 Civic LX after it threw a P0335 and went into limp-home mode. I bought a new Denso sensor from Rock Auto and, once I got the damned crank pulley bolt out (that 2 pound 19mm socket finally did the trick), installed it without major issues.
After it was all back together, the car would take some cranking to start (the battery is good), and it would continue to throw a P0335.
I got proper readings at all three pins of the CPS connector. I threw a bunch of contact cleaner and WD40 at the connector and went off to do other things.
This morning it would crank nicely but refused to start, with just a sputter now and then.
I'd ordered a new CPS connector, so I went ahead and installed that.
The car will now start pretty decently WITHOUT THE CONNECTOR PLUGGED IN. It refuses to start with everything connected. Again, I get correct voltage readings at the connector pins.

So, I'm thinking I got a dud Denso. I did NOT drop it or get it wet. I'm having Advance Auto bring over one of their "premium" sensors, which come with a "lifetime warranty". I'll start tearing things apart again shortly to put that in. Before I do that, is there realistically anything else I should check to make sure putting in a second replacement sensor isn't a waste of time?

Thanks.

John

 
Rep Power: 0

One more odd thing: This morning, after the car had sat for a day, it did not show any codes. Even after lots of fruitless cranking. I do have a reader and had used it to clear the codes earlier, but they would always immediately reappear when the ignition switch was turned on. After I finally got it to start without the connector plugged it, it then, not surprisingly popped the P0335 again.

So I'm thinking there was originally an issue with the connector that had the ECU think there was no sensor connected. Once the connector issue cleared, it then sensed a bad sensor. I probably should just put the original sensor back in and see if that works! Is it possible to test the sensor with it not installed? Can I plug it in, run a ground wire to the bolt hole, and see if it throws the P0335 immediately, just turning the ignition on, but not cranking?

John

 
Rep Power: 518

yes
No.
Just plug in the 3 wire connector. there is no ground thru the bolt hole. .

Sounds like you're already narrowed down to a bunk sensor. Wonder if it could be counterfeit Denso.

 
Rep Power: 0

I've got it back apart, with another new sensor in hand. I'm waiting for a new lower timing belt cover to come in before I reassemble everything. Is there any reason I can't just bolt in the new sensor, torque down the crankshaft pulley, and fire it up briefly to make sure everything's working? It'd be nice to know for sure, before all the belts, etc., are back in and adjusted.

 
Rep Power: 518

As long as the timing belt is installed..I certainly would.
But be careful.
And bolt down the valve cover, else it could make a huge oil mess

 
Rep Power: 0

Now I'm getting a P1362.

Once all was back together, all codes cleared. The car would crank but not start. After tons of cranking (the battery's been on a charger, luckily), it fired weakly, kept running, but then threw the P1362. The TDC sensor was replaced recently by a good shop. I'd disconnected it to remove the upper timing belt cover, but I've unplugged and replugged it three times and still get the "sensor not found" error.

I did have a weird issue when I was first going to test the readings at the CPS connector way back at the beginning of all this, several days ago. I went to read the battery voltage with my DMM, but the positive meter cable was plugged into the AMP reading socket and somehow created a short circuit that fried the meter. I don't think that would've also fried anything else, but maybe? As I said, the voltage readings at the CPS connector are all good.

Any suggestions, or should I just go get a new TDC sensor and try that? I did get the top cover off by just loosening the valve cover, so that did save some work.

Lord love a duck.

 
Rep Power: 0

I did find the steps for checking the TDC connector, which appear to be the same as the ones I used for the CPS connector. Again, all those voltages check out.

 
Rep Power: 367

OEM sensor?
Hondas are very very finicky with aftermarket sensors...
We have seem also a couple of cases with sensors that actually were defective over the decades. One of them went to scrapyard, pulled several parts and tested them all (this one was for ELD, though)

 
Rep Power: 0

Mystery solved! I guess I was ham-fisted putting it back together and bent two pins. Big sigh. I'll probably have to wait until the morning to get it back together, as the sun's going down, but maybe now the car will actually run decently with no codes.

 
Rep Power: 0

I think I'm in business! I did buy a new sender before I realized the pin situation. I went ahead and put that in. I'll save the other as a spare. It fired right up, idles sweetly, and is throwing zero codes! I can't drive it yet as I'd earlier replaced the rear hubs and brake shoes, got some air in the system, and need to bleed the brakes before I hit the road. But I think we're in business.

Thanks for the help, folks.

John

 
Rep Power: 367

woah, that is a p e nis fracture!!! Don't go too eager, aim carefully! (sorry, couldn't help myself, had to say that )
glad you found the issue!

 
Rep Power: 0

I claim elderliness! I'm 72 and put in about 10 hours on this today. I guess that was about 4 hours too many! Better than going to bed with it still hanging over my head, though.

 
Rep Power: 367

hahaha! again, glad you found the issue!
My my brother in law did the same with a coaxial cable, but the center cable... was deformed because he put too much force there... so, i have seem that before...
Added it to the strange causes thread, let us know if you don't want it there!

 
Rep Power: 518

Good find. I hate it when that happens
Makes you wanna kick yer own butt lol.


Not outrageously expensive to fix, and a learning experience.

I can tell ya it hurts a lot when youre staring at a ruined pcm, abs, any of the major computers. And/or wiring harness damage (do you wanna try to splice a 30-100+ wire connector in, or just buy a harness)
Plus maybe towing to the dealer for initializing, programming or software.