k20 automatic?
if i did a manual conversion on a d17 i would need to get
shifer assembly, shifter lines, clutch/brake/gas pedals, clutch master cylinder, hardlines, and the actual tranny w/fly and clutch and new throwout bearing, ecu
do i need a new subframe also? is the top tranny mount located in the same area?
and for installation of the clucth pedal and mastercylinder
are the holes already making this a bolt on install or do i need to drill holes?
for the wiring harness, anything needed to be modified?
can the fly/clutch bolt onto the motor that was previously a automatic?
mahalos
shifer assembly, shifter lines, clutch/brake/gas pedals, clutch master cylinder, hardlines, and the actual tranny w/fly and clutch and new throwout bearing, ecu
do i need a new subframe also? is the top tranny mount located in the same area?
and for installation of the clucth pedal and mastercylinder
are the holes already making this a bolt on install or do i need to drill holes?
for the wiring harness, anything needed to be modified?
can the fly/clutch bolt onto the motor that was previously a automatic?
mahalos
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you will need to drill holes for the pedal assembly, there are are grooves in the uni-body that indicated where the pedal assembly is going to go. so it makes it a bit easier to do.
as for the master cylinder im not quite sure about that, but for the slave cylinder you will have to drill for that as well. im not sure if theres a groove for sure but most likely there is. all you have to do is drill and grind. its alot easier said than done.
i dont know about wiring harness, but if you dont use a manual ecu you have to so some cutting and splicing for the auto ecu to work correctly.
your manual tranny will bolt up fine to the egine including clutch and flywheel.
you can modify your subframe so that it supports the smaller manual tranny but if you dont know how to weld i would suggest getting the manual subframe.
as for the master cylinder im not quite sure about that, but for the slave cylinder you will have to drill for that as well. im not sure if theres a groove for sure but most likely there is. all you have to do is drill and grind. its alot easier said than done.
i dont know about wiring harness, but if you dont use a manual ecu you have to so some cutting and splicing for the auto ecu to work correctly.
your manual tranny will bolt up fine to the egine including clutch and flywheel.
you can modify your subframe so that it supports the smaller manual tranny but if you dont know how to weld i would suggest getting the manual subframe.
if your looking for more power, it would be easier to boost instead of a k20 auto swap. youd make more power with less money.
man what happened to s2kman?
man what happened to s2kman?
Last edited by Curiouz_G; Sep 3, 2006 at 10:59 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
hmm look
http://www.7thgencivic.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=123114
was searching and i found out if ididnt misread the holes are already predrilled, just bolt on for the pedals/cylinder
http://www.7thgencivic.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=123114
was searching and i found out if ididnt misread the holes are already predrilled, just bolt on for the pedals/cylinder
90% of all drag cars use some form of an automatic transmission, or clutchless sequencial transmission. Consistancy is no waste of money, it wins races more often than not. The stock k20 has proven to be durable enough to handle descent amounts of boost. I see great potential for a built turbo k20 bracket racer. If this dude wants to try an auto swap out, dont fault him for it. It may help some of us later on for a more serious build.
crap i want to drive stick.. i drive my friends integra/rsx/eclipses just so i dont forget how to haha.. and i make them drive my car.. they like my car since it handles so good
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