danace99

My '98 civic sohc automatic seems to be stuck in neutral. Background: Have front jacked up so I could test a replacement wheel and hub for trueness; put car in gear several times at idle so I could watch the wheels turn. At one point I absentmindedly put the car in park while the wheels were still slowly turning. Didn't seem to cause any damage and car test drove ok. Raised the front again to change wheels and left the car in neutral overnight. The next day the ignition switch would not go past the first position and the starter would not engage. No matter what position I put the shift in the front wheels turn freely as if the car is in neutral, even in park. When I put the shift in park it will not shift unless I put the key in the shift disengage slot (this is normal I assume). Battery reads a full charge and the brake lights work. I should mention I replaced the ignition switch a couple of months ago. The shift linkage in the cabin seems to be working ok and the wires and switches at the shifter look ok.
This has me scratching my head, so any help would be appreciated.

ezone

Lock cylinder jammed?

danace99

I'm not sure how the shift interlock feature works; I assumed the shifter was preventing the ignition switch from operating. But if its the other way around that would make sense; the switch has seemed to be a little funky since I installed it. So would that explain why the shifter seems to be stuck in neutral no matter what position its in?

ezone

Shifter lock prevents you from moving the shift lever out of PARK until your foot is on the brake pedal

Shifter interlock prevents you from turning the key to LOCK position unless the shifter is in PARK.

If you can't turn the key on or start it, you would seem to have a key and cylinder problem inside the steering column lock assembly.

Your post sounded like all normal stuff there... Front wheels are never locked together, look up how an open differential works.

danace99

OK, duh. I was only turning one wheel at a time and thought it was in neutral. I'll replace the ignition switch. Thanks.

danace99

OK. I was wrong about the key going to the first position. It only goes half way there, so that means I can't get the old switch out because the little push button gizmo won't depress. The steering wheel is not locked in position; it turns freely both ways. I've tried hitting, jiggling, reversing the key, nothing works. Any body have any suggestions?

ezone

You may need to remove the complete column lock assembly from the steering column, then you can work with it on a bench and see the entire thing, maybe attempt to remove the cylinder or at least have it out where you can get to all parts of it easily.

ezone

Remove the column covers, then use a small hammer and tap the side of the lock housing rapidly while trying to turn it?

danace99

Got the key to move to the first position by tapping more aggressively and got the lock cylinder out. I'll take it back to Autozone since it is still under warrantry (Locksmart, $20). Funny, it looks exactly like the one I took out two months ago; hmm.
Thanks ezone.

ezone

Cool!

Make sure the problem is not in the housing, see if you can turn it with a screwdriver (or whatever tool)?
What was wrong 2 months ago?

danace99

Same thing. Yeah I'm starting to get suspicious that the problem might not be the cylinder. I shined a flashlight into the opening an did'n see anything wrong. Couldn't do anything with a screwdriver. Car started and shut off ok after I got the cylinder unstuck. Both cylinders seem to operate ok out of the column. The lock had been hanging up temporarily for several weeks; after I replaced the cylinder two months ago it definitely worked better. Then last week it hung up again.

danace99

Update. I tried to get the ignition switch out. It must be a replacement because the shear off bolts were not sheared off. I got one loosened without shearing off the head, but the other one sheared off. I tried the punch and hammer trick but it did'nt work. I'm thinking my next move will be to try to cut flats in the bolt and use a vice grip. Meanwhile I have been driving the car and just leaving the key in accessory after I turn the engine off because it won't go to the off position. But even though I turn everything off, the battery tends to run down overnight. Does anyone know what might be drawing current in the accessory position besides the radio or blower?

ezone

My diagrams show fuse 27 and 28 are powered with the key in accessory position.
Those power the lighter socket, clock, and radio.
There's also an "option connector" in the circuit diagram.