Turbo Pistons
Joined: Sep 2001
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From: Lexington, KY
Rep Power: 584 
all said and done labor and having to buy duplicate parts to replace the crap that turbo performance sent me its come to like 14 grand, thats not what i inteneded but if i didnt have to be a damn research and development car it wouldnt have cost that much, but when u think about it, ex swap, everything for the turbo kit that was pieced together and not bout as a kit, and all the guages and controllers and the fuel management stufff, it adds up, u guys remember back at the beginning of the year the ultimate street car challenge in sport compact car, that yellow turbo type R the shop that did that is doing mine, that type r is the shiz......it was detuned for the magazine, but it dynos at like 600 hp and then the shop owner has a fully built type r in a hatch, and it has 600 hp and ran a 11.6 at the track
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From: Cincinnati, Ohio, US
Rep Power: 374 Its ok of a place. It is one of the only places in Cincy that does major motor work.
I would love to see your civic though. PM me and we'll meet up.
I would love to see your civic though. PM me and we'll meet up.
Last edited by Jodster; Jun 22, 2003 at 03:24 PM.
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 26,407
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From: Lexington, KY
Rep Power: 584 the price i quoted for the total is inflated bc i had to by the same parts twice from two different places raceline was the first and they are the worst place to take ne thing at all, so from him to get a motor build it put it back in tune it create a return fuel system and in stall the turbo along with custom work and as for ur engine swap depending on the motor price it should cost no more than 900 bucks including tax to do a swap, so 15,000 is way out there, personally i dont think he ripped me off. as far as being king or what not. if i was tim and had people coming in asking for prices and can i do this and can i do this and never dropping any $$$ it would make me mad too, nothing against you, but i went in there a paid for it all in like 3 weeks, so im on his good side and as for prices on parts he charges like maybe 10 bucks more per part but if u buy it all from him he lowers the labor bill. i will be in South carolina when it gets done so it wont be til like the middle of july til its tuned right
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From: Cincinnati, Ohio, US
Rep Power: 374 I understand what your saying. I have no problem at all dropping some cash. I would have done the swap if he didn't qoute me such a crazy price. I'm more than likely going to go back to his shop here within the next two months and have him build me a K20. Like I said, I have no problem at all spending money at his shop. I'm not going to pay over twice the amount though. Good luck with everything. PM me sometime and we can meet up.
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From: phoenix, Arizona, US
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it was detuned for the magazine, but it dynos at like 600 hp and then the shop owner has a fully built type r in a hatch, and it has 600 hp and ran a 11.6 at the track
Joined: Sep 2001
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From: Lexington, KY
Rep Power: 584 theres a thing called traction that he doesnt have til 3rd gear and that was on street tires , and there are so many variables that come into play with that, not to mention that after that first run he couldnt run anymore until he got a fire suit.
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From: NJ
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Call me crazy, but if you build your engine to handle a good amount of boost (namely studding the head), you should benefit more from the 9.1:1 over the 8.5:1.
I think 8.5:1 would be safer, but 9.1:1 would make some more power/psi. I might be wrong.
I think 8.5:1 would be safer, but 9.1:1 would make some more power/psi. I might be wrong.
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From: phoenix, Arizona, US
Rep Power: 0 Originally posted by C2i0v0i1c
theres a thing called traction that he doesnt have til 3rd gear and that was on street tires , and there are so many variables that come into play with that, not to mention that after that first run he couldnt run anymore until he got a fire suit.
theres a thing called traction that he doesnt have til 3rd gear and that was on street tires , and there are so many variables that come into play with that, not to mention that after that first run he couldnt run anymore until he got a fire suit.
Joined: Sep 2001
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From: Lexington, KY
Rep Power: 584 i dont have time to sit here and explain someone elses car there are plenty of cars out there that will beat it for sure. theres already a roll cage, but when u only get to run the car once instead of the 10 times u get to at a slower track u dont get that many chances to better urself. im also not going sit here and list all the parts that are on it either, the suspension has been upgraded too. the car had never seen the strip nor been dynoed before the track, after the track he dynoed it and got 522 and maxed out his 720 injectors he has now moved up to 1000 injectors, o and unless u seen the car in person dont complain to me about it
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From: Lancaster, California, US
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The trade off for 9:1 vs 8.5:1 are as follows
8.5:1 More Boost, less umpf before boost
9.0:1 Little less boost, more umpf before boost, more power/PSI gained
All around, the best for our cars depends on the level that you know how to tune your car. If you cant tune worth a crap and want to make more power, go with the 8.5:1 pistons.
If you know how to tune your car, use the 9.0:1
The 9.0 will be better around town because you dont lose all of your bottom end, and you still have a good top end without having to run 20 psi.
The 8.5:1 will let you run more boost for the octane gas you have, but as i said before, you sacrifice the bottom end power.
With the 9.0:1, your car will be slower than stock before you make boost... BUT the 8.5:1 will be even worse before boost. So when you choose to buy pistons, just take the following into consideration:
Driving habits (are you putting around town or Racing?)
Tuning abilities
Amount of boost you want to run
And the Octane of your fuel
The trade off for 9:1 vs 8.5:1 are as follows
8.5:1 More Boost, less umpf before boost
9.0:1 Little less boost, more umpf before boost, more power/PSI gained
All around, the best for our cars depends on the level that you know how to tune your car. If you cant tune worth a crap and want to make more power, go with the 8.5:1 pistons.
If you know how to tune your car, use the 9.0:1
The 9.0 will be better around town because you dont lose all of your bottom end, and you still have a good top end without having to run 20 psi.
The 8.5:1 will let you run more boost for the octane gas you have, but as i said before, you sacrifice the bottom end power.
With the 9.0:1, your car will be slower than stock before you make boost... BUT the 8.5:1 will be even worse before boost. So when you choose to buy pistons, just take the following into consideration:
Driving habits (are you putting around town or Racing?)
Tuning abilities
Amount of boost you want to run
And the Octane of your fuel
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From: NJ
Rep Power: 0 Originally posted by Catalyst
Smokie2k2Lx
Sorry i stole your words. Atleast we are on the same page!
Smokie2k2Lx Sorry i stole your words. Atleast we are on the same page!
But it was well said... I'm gonna add it to the FAQ in your words if you don't mind 
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Joined: Mar 2003
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From: Lancaster, California, US
Rep Power: 312 I just try to help out as much as possible.
Since Stafford (SFpower) made me read everything he could find about turbos, superchargers, and fuel injection (thank you Corky Bell), i learned quiet a bit.
I figure why not help out you guys, because, after all, you do have some sweet a$$ rides!
Since Stafford (SFpower) made me read everything he could find about turbos, superchargers, and fuel injection (thank you Corky Bell), i learned quiet a bit.
I figure why not help out you guys, because, after all, you do have some sweet a$$ rides!
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