Rep Power: 424

IT IS ALIVE
Fired up at 10 this morning on the first shot.... here's some pics of the 15 hours of mayhem..... Freddy took em with his DSLR. Thanks Freddy.

Out with the old heap

Kinda naked.... this can be done without taking the AC and PS off.... makes life easier later.


The tranny


New throw out bearing and clutch (Exedy Organic)


All the power in the palm of your hand (VTEC solenoid)




Hey look, I match the motor, and I installed the turbo


New radiator. I highly recommend installing it like this.... remove crash bar, swing AC condenser open slide in radiator. Makes life much easier than trying to jam it through the little hole on top.


Edwin made a mess....


Me.... trying to tune Kpro, without really knowing how to tune, yet I managed to figure it out anyways.


I'm still looking for the screen with the bouncing fuel map like in FATF... cant seem to find it.


Basically done




Completed



Initial impressions: Kpro is easy, which is good. For you boosters with big injectors, use a K20A3 map, then just shut off VTC. You'll probably find your self pulling fuel, I think I pulled about 20-25% out across the board for both cam profiles and the car is running fine. Also, adjust the idle speed up, and speed up the idle cycle rate (the slide bar in the idle window).
The car runs well, good oil pressure, steady temps, putters along like a stock motor with very little cam lumping. Low end is strong, vtec is pretty noticable, even when set at 2400, but with the maps being kinda rough, that will probably change when its dynotuned next tuesday.
The swap as a whole..... eh, probably not a driveway job, unless your driveway has air tools. The lift and air tools made life easy... I couldnt imagine doing this on jack stands.

 
Rep Power: 242

congrats man. car is lookin sick

 
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after all that work and being boosted, why no block guard?

 
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Because there's absolutely no reason for it. The sleeves are thick, it restricts water to the head, and when you install it cold and the block heats up, you can distort the cylinder walls with it. Some people swear by em, other people hate em. I hate em.

 
Rep Power: 350

Eh, its not bad on jackstands, just need a big *** pry bar to angle the motor right when mounting front and rear mounts in. Glad it all came out well man. Make sure to remember to change the oil at 100 and 500 miles before you tune it and especially check for any large shavings just in case. Better safe than sorry. When are you tuning tuesday? I want to go if I can make it.

 
Rep Power: 350

+1
You hear about cylinder walk, yada yada. With 375 and stock block, the sleeves are perfectly fine. Pretty tough to damage them.

 
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yay, ok now it's my turn.

edit: man, i LOVE my job.

 
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^Yuh, you know what you gotta do! We can do it in a day. Do me a favor. After Justin tunes, go for a ride with him. Then come for a ride with me. Then decide on which cam you want, hehe.

 
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hey i gota question. since u built the motor internally and i think u did work to the head, and its boosted. how does ur vtec work. is it still the conventional SOHC VTEC-E...the kind that doesnt really increase performance but more fuel efficiency.. so now after all that youve done. what does it do...is it still primarily for fuel efficiency or have you modified it or tuned in thru k-pro for a more performance oriented spec. thanks anybody who answers this...

 
Rep Power: 331

he's running a mildly built head with basically a valve job, stage 2 crower turbo cam and titanium retainers and springs. i think he's got vtec kicking in at like 2200 rpms and it's all about performance. fuel economy went out the window with the kitchen sink faucets he used to replace his fuel injectors.

 
Rep Power: 388

Looking good. How much did labor run you with those guys? Cant wait for the numbers.

 
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I really can't let people know how much boiler paid if i want to keep my job, but average swap prices in this area are around 2-2500k, i suppose it would be significantly less since the swap consisted mainly of old motor out, new motor in. no dealing with a car and motor not originally equiped with it. all i can say is that although he did pay some labor time, it was nothing close to 2k, not by a long shot..

shameless plug - come see us at Rockville NTB, we do way more than just tires and batteries.. as if that isn't already apparent.

 
Rep Power: 424

There's no way to convert the rocker set to anything else. I looked the D16 rocker set and its just too different, I dont think the oil passages would line up. So the only thing you really can do is get it running on all 16 valves as fast as you can, open them wide and and shove as much boost in there you can.
With all 16 valves open, yeah, the turbo spools a tad earlier, but the turbo spools before 3K anyways, I dont really notice it.

 
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I'm gonna need a little recovery time and I need to let all my knuckles heal before I do it again....

 
Rep Power: 350

Yeah right. If you're ever in dc, hit me up.

Of course operating 4 valves instead of 3 will spool a turbo and get you to full boost faster. On a small bb turbo, you probably won't notice it, but on my setup, I couldn't imagine hitting vtec at 5k+rpm. I'm already at full boost by then. My powerband would be significantly different/weaker.

 
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you guys make me sad, now i want to boost . good time this weekend guys.

 
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Boilermaker1=ricer.





j/k Congrats on finishing the build and I'm gald to see all the orange.

 
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Yeah the only time Im not on all the valves is at cruise and low throttle. As soon as I get into it the vtec pretty much engages instantly. Works good like that. I never feel any kind of transition, it just rips right outta the hole.

 
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I see you had a different muffler on the car, but wasn't so sure about the rest of the exhaust, looked like you still had the resonator on there. Maybe i'm wrong?

 
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Its a Tanabe Hyper exhaust. Nice and quiet, so I can drive and not be annoyed at the car.

 
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i wasnt sure if it was just a muffler or if u redone the entire exhaust

 
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good stuff!! so are we gonna see vids anytime soon?

 
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congrats!!!!can u get some vids of ur car now please?

 
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You know, I just might. I'll be in the area the week of 17 June (business trip to Ft. Meade that week) so I may drop in just to see what's going on.

 
Rep Power: 424

More Kpro learnings. I had to call hondata today to figure out how to make closed loop fire up.
Follow this precisely for 01-03
File ---> New
Select 01-03 Civic D17
Pick the applicable map
leave the closed loop settings as is. It should be Enable Closed loop, disable heater code, use secondary O2 sensor input for closed loop
You'll need to repin the ECU as shown on Hondata's website.
Thus far it doesnt work so hot. I'm trying to run 440s with the 310 cc map and I adjusted it so the car runs, but I'm still fighting with it. It keeps throwing an O2 sensor voltage too high code, probably because its idling out of the narrowband's range... gonna have to frig around with it some more.

 
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even with the kinks, the hondata still seems to be a much better option than the AEM EMS.. im thoroughly impressed, then again, for what it costs..

 
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good work Boiler

 
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None taken. And you just 'think' you're more of a smartass, hehe.

I think you aren't going to be able to get a good idle with a narrowband sensor, don't quote me but the pirmary sensor on the k series is used for feedback, the secondary is emission control. I will check into this more later. I do know that I can't get lean protection enabled without a Honda wideband. My understanding is you need a Honda wideband to get closed loop to work properly, too, depending on what map you use. I think you'd be better off running the map you had loaded and tweaking the idle, we can play with it this weekend if you want. Even if its a little rich, like say in the 12's at part throttle, you should be fine while you break in until you tune.

 
Rep Power: 424

Closed loop can target the idle, its idling between 14.5 and 15, but it wants to surge when the car is warm.
Beyond idle, I'm cruising in the high 13s and on the gas its in the 11's, running nice and safe for now, very smoothly, with quite a bit of partial throttle punch. Beyond about 50% throttle it really gets fat, but there's only 170 miles on the motor, I havent taken it past 1/2 throttle really. By sunday it'll be on oil change #4..... might be able to get into the top half of the map by then.

 
Rep Power: 413

Lets all take a breath and relax...

Back on topic.