Rep Power: 280

LOL i know what you mean.. least your car didnt look like :





my car sat like that for 4 weeks while i worked out the kinks in my motor lol. But hey good luck man, i cant wait to see some numbers. heard you and andy were working this weekend.

 
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^^^^ Holy **** dude. That looks like 10000000 headaches.

 
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Thats a gross understatement. Its more like we were working ALL weekend. Oil pump crank shaft seal was defective, the pressure was a little low, I thought it was a combination of dinopiss oil and all the assembly lubes thinning it out until the car spewed almost all the oil out, had it towed to andy's, tore the bottom end apart, got really lucky and didnt spin a bearing or damage anything.... then put it all back together. it takes 2x as long inside the car. Once I got the car back together and saw how much pressure it has now.... that damn seal never worked right. The real stink of it is that it was a brand new oil pump and seal from Honda.

 
Rep Power: 297

Wish I lived closer to you fellas. I dont know any other serious 7thgeners up here.

 
Rep Power: 424

Andy has a spare bedroom, I'm sure he could make some room for ya

 
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im just glad it's all getting sorted out.

 
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Damb oil seals always a pain in the ***. andy was telling me about that.. and your BOV went out too?

 
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Yeah, this is a recient thing, 3 weeks ago I pressure checked it and it was fine. I bought a turbosmart kompact valve, which is a piston valve rather than a diaphragm one, just gonna eliminate the issue all together.

 
Rep Power: 280

good plan... good luck man

 
Rep Power: 350

Yeah, I don't know, the seal could've been defective or it could have been that you didn't seat it properly after installing the pump. They probably just shoved it in there and it wasn't flush. That's how it looked when I got the timing gear off the crank. I could see a small piece of the seal torn and hanging. Important thing is, you've got 1,000X's better luck than I do, lol.

 
Rep Power: 424

Bought a DC Sports SCS exhaust this morning. gonna try and pop it on tomorrow and see what that does. once the BOV comes in, I'll take it out and make sure the car is holding boost.
Andy, the car is holding oil now, which is good.

 
Rep Power: 0

Sorry to barge in here.
Have you considered using a recirculation valve, to help with the spooling of the turbo?(I know that you have vtech set low to assist with the spooling just wondering)

 
Rep Power: 424

Um, I am using a recirc valve, have been since day 1. See photo, refer to blue hose.

 
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Yeah and when you make phone calls, don't forget the vtech, yo!

 
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Haha he walked right into that one. +1, cause I feel sorry for him.

 
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how does this work?

 
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Instead of venting pressure to the atmosphere, its vented back into the system before the turbo.

 
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it recycles the presurized air to keep up the turbo speed... its the same idea as the 2002 passats have.... you can also go to a recirculate/bov combo f you want to tune better... i no greddy makes one

 
Rep Power: 424

Its intended purpose has nothing to do with compressor speed.
ALL mass air metered cars (VWs, Saabs, Volvos, Porsches, Subarus, Mitsubishis, Nissans) use recirc valves to maintain the proper amount of air in the system. If you vent it after the computer accounts for it, you end up with a rich spot and the car bogs down.

Recirc valve = Blow off valve = diverter valve
They're all the same thing.

 
Rep Power: 350

NO, NO, NO, it makes the turbo spool faster!

 
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But didn't you tell me it helps the snail stay spooled or was I dreaming? Or was it that it prevent crap from getting sucked back up by the BOV and also gives it a more subtle sound? I can't remember.

 
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It does exactly what boiler just said. That's the purpose, for MAF metered cars. Airflow from the exhaust spools a turbo, not air in the charge pipe.

 
Rep Power: 424

well, I got my DC installed and took it out for a spin. Umm its kinda loud. Not annoying loud, but I'm used to quiet. Hopefully once it burns out a little bit, it'll quiet down. It was fine cruising on the highway with the windows up, but when I hit the gas from a light or something, its a little too boomy for my taste. The good thing is when I get on it, it sounds really good and smooth, and goes from 0 to .7 bar (10.15 psi for you non-metrics) in an instant.

Big discovery.... that Tanabe had a 2" flange with an expansion section. The DC is straight through 60mm..... so I'm sure that it'll open up a little bit without the choke section on it. Also gonna clear out that scrubby brick thing, but um...

 
Rep Power: 331

hey, no econo-box jap car is complete without a touch of rice..

 
Rep Power: 424

no... expect to hear very little before next wednesday

 
Rep Power: 424

moderate update. I got my new BOV. I'm pretty sure I just closed the leak, I got more boost now. Now I need to figure out if the solenoid setting is off, or if I have a major creep problem, the gauge registered almost 13 psi and I bounced off the Kpro boost cut, which is incredibly violent.... still working out the bugs, but its getting better.

 
Rep Power: 280

LOL welcome to the world of Boost and lean cuts! You hole car feels like it wants to stop huh?

 
Rep Power: 424

Well, I'm glad its there, but I need to figure out whats going on. I dont have a laptop that can get me into Kpro (I have a mac), so I gotta borrow one and run it with the datalogger on. It seems the cut off is somewhere around .9bar, must be a factory default, but I dont know if the wastegate is creeping or if the solenoid isnt quite calibrated. Will have to play with it tomorrow.

 
Rep Power: 280

Umm you can run... virtual pc
http://www.apple.com/macosx/applications/virtualpc/

 
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Was gonna say... Bootcamp or parallels are your friends as far as running windows goes. I'm building a mac with PC parts... OSX86 project.