stage 2 na crower cam experience
Originally Posted by se7engen_riDe
^^^ it takes 2 hours to instal a camshaft?
lol i dunno i just shot that off the top of my head, i figure if he doesnt have to do springs/retainers he wont have to pull the head, saving a ton of time.
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Originally Posted by kezay
meowdog the fcon is only designed to controll fuel however we need something to controll the ignition timing, raise the rev limiter, adjust the VTEC point, and also to controll fuel. The AEM EMS is the easiest choice for us. However the greddy e manage would be able to controll both fuel and the ignition timing but I have come to the conclusion that if I am going to but anything to tune my car I am going the AEM route. (Just do it right the first time around)
im currently on emanage now..not running very well w the cams. seems like the stock ecu is "kicking in" very often and my air-fuel is screwed up. on the dyno, the air/fuel ratio started to change just after 3 runs. indicating the stock ecu kicking in to remove the settings inputted by the emanage.
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meowdog, read this thread.
http://www.7thgencivic.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=220799
it deals with the long term and short term fuel trims on the D17 ecu. It will explain why your dynographs are inconsistent.
http://www.7thgencivic.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=220799
it deals with the long term and short term fuel trims on the D17 ecu. It will explain why your dynographs are inconsistent.
Originally Posted by turboengnr
meowdog, read this thread.
http://www.7thgencivic.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=220799
it deals with the long term and short term fuel trims on the D17 ecu. It will explain why your dynographs are inconsistent.
http://www.7thgencivic.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=220799
it deals with the long term and short term fuel trims on the D17 ecu. It will explain why your dynographs are inconsistent.
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From: Boise, Idaho
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Originally Posted by kezay
This is exactly my point but my question is what do we do?
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Originally Posted by kezay
This is exactly my point but my question is what do we do?
But at 1400$+ that is a lot of money and you will have to keep the stock ecu!! S**T , ... !
Well back to the drawing board.
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From: so cal djmota=oscar
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Originally Posted by jky
As I see it the only thing is the AEM EMS 30-1030, right ?
But at 1400$+ that is a lot of money and you will have to keep the stock ecu!! S**T , ... !
Well back to the drawing board.
But at 1400$+ that is a lot of money and you will have to keep the stock ecu!! S**T , ... !
Well back to the drawing board.
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From: so cal djmota=oscar
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Originally Posted by ncirom2003
what about any hondata products??? do theyre things even work with our cars and engines?
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Originally Posted by djmota
I really don't see whats wrong with keeping the stock ecu. All it does is run the multiplex system. (ac guages ect.) The ems is alot of cash if you are going to stay with the d17. If you are planning a swap in the future. It nice to have something to play with now (d17) and still be able to use it later (k series).
In Europe you pay al lot more for a 200hp engine, as for 125hp engine, the difference is round 800$/year in insurance money!!!! that is why I would like to keep my engine and just upgrade it, so on paper the engine is still 125HP, but in realty it is +-140WHP !
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From: so cal djmota=oscar
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Originally Posted by jky
If you keep the stock ecu, then there is no point in swapping cams, pistons, headers , ...
All it does is run the multiplex system. (ac guages ect.)
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Originally Posted by djmota
The stock ecu does not run anything else. It just allows you to continue to use the stock temp guage and ac button. EMS will handle everything else.
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Originally Posted by jky
If you keep the stock ecu, then there is no point in swapping cams, pistons, headers , ...
In Europe you pay al lot more for a 200hp engine, as for 125hp engine, the difference is round 800$/year in insurance money!!!! that is why I would like to keep my engine and just upgrade it, so on paper the engine is still 125HP, but in realty it is +-140WHP !
In Europe you pay al lot more for a 200hp engine, as for 125hp engine, the difference is round 800$/year in insurance money!!!! that is why I would like to keep my engine and just upgrade it, so on paper the engine is still 125HP, but in realty it is +-140WHP !
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Rep Power: 281 Cwick187....to answer your question reguarding idle qulity
Says on the spec sheet...Stage 1 idle to 7000+, Stage 2 1000-8000+. Meaning that with the stage 2 you will be above the stock idle...780ish. That alone should tell you that the ECU can't stay stock cause there is no other way to adjust idle but set screw and that WILL throw an idle adjustment code. ONLY way to fix this wis with the EMS. No other unit for ours cars has the ability to change this.
Says on the spec sheet...Stage 1 idle to 7000+, Stage 2 1000-8000+. Meaning that with the stage 2 you will be above the stock idle...780ish. That alone should tell you that the ECU can't stay stock cause there is no other way to adjust idle but set screw and that WILL throw an idle adjustment code. ONLY way to fix this wis with the EMS. No other unit for ours cars has the ability to change this.
Last edited by Nokturnl; Sep 16, 2005 at 07:42 PM.
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From: Boise, Idaho
Rep Power: 328 Here is a explanation taken from HERE
Originally Posted by ncirom2003
can somebody explain closed loop? thanks
CLOSED LOOP
Definition: The basic principle of electronic engine management in which input from an oxygen sensor allows the engine control computer to determine and maintain a nearly perfect air-fuel ratio. To enter closed loop operation, the oxygen sensor must be producing a voltage signal and the engine must have reached a certain operating temperature.
Definition: The basic principle of electronic engine management in which input from an oxygen sensor allows the engine control computer to determine and maintain a nearly perfect air-fuel ratio. To enter closed loop operation, the oxygen sensor must be producing a voltage signal and the engine must have reached a certain operating temperature.
OPEN LOOP
Definition: A mode of operation in a computerized engine management system that occurs after a cold start. During open loop, the computer provides a fixed air/fuel ratio that is richer than normal to improve cold derivability until the engine warms up.
Definition: A mode of operation in a computerized engine management system that occurs after a cold start. During open loop, the computer provides a fixed air/fuel ratio that is richer than normal to improve cold derivability until the engine warms up.
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Originally Posted by Nokturnl
Cwick187....to answer your question reguarding idle qulity
Says on the spec sheet...Stage 1 idle to 7000+, Stage 2 1000-8000+. Meaning that with the stage 2 you will be above the stock idle...780ish. That alone should tell you that the ECU can't stay stock cause there is no other way to adjust idle but set screw and that WILL throw an idle adjustment code. ONLY way to fix this wis with the EMS. No other unit for ours cars has the ability to change this.
Says on the spec sheet...Stage 1 idle to 7000+, Stage 2 1000-8000+. Meaning that with the stage 2 you will be above the stock idle...780ish. That alone should tell you that the ECU can't stay stock cause there is no other way to adjust idle but set screw and that WILL throw an idle adjustment code. ONLY way to fix this wis with the EMS. No other unit for ours cars has the ability to change this.
