jky

The 30-1070 is the first of these to be released. It supports vehicles that have swapped the following engines with manual transmissions only.

K20A2
K20A3
K24A1
D17A1
D17A2

These motors originally came from the USDM RSX Type-S, RSX Base/Civic Si, CR-V, Civic EX, and Civic DX/LX, respectively.

While the 30-1070 can drive these motors in the vehicles listed above, the EMS will not support the factory A/C Switch and Coolant Gauge that are driven by Honda's Multiplex System (Datastream/CAN Bus). Note: these chassis's have their own EMS part number 30-1030.

The 30-1030 will run all of the factory functions on the RSX Type-S, RSX Base/Civic Si, CR-V, Civic EX/DX/LX. This will be an iEMS where it will have all of the benefits of the 30-1070 EMS but will be "integrated" with the stock ECU so the Multiplex unit can run the Coolant Gauge and the A/C system. It is important to note that no EMS function is lost because of this.

30-1070
Advantage: Does not require 2 ECUs to be run in the vehicle
Disadvantage: Will not run 01-up Honda Multiplex System which drives the Coolant Gauge and A/C Input Switch.

30-1030
Advantage: Will run 01-up Honda Multiplex System which drives the Coolant Gauge and A/C Input Switch.
Disadvantage: Requires 2 ECUs to be run in the vehicle

FOR MORE INFO CHECK:
http://forum.aempower.com/bbs/index.php

Nokturnl

iTrader: (20)

Jeff st Streetlevelpreformance.com said the 30-1030 should be out mid sept. I am # 8 on list to get one...guess we will wait and see

djmota

iTrader: (34)

so theres a list. hmm,, I'll wait it out. I stil have to pay for the last bunch of parts I got. mid sept. sounds good. keep us posted.

ncirom2003

iTrader: (7)

dam, i was all excited about getting a stage 2 (na or turbo if i buy a kit) cam put into the ex head i just bought, i was really happy but now im all worried about it,
cel's
really rough idles and the car bogging out unless you flutter the throttle.

eek!
maybe ill stick to a stage 1 idk.

keep us posted on news though. this is a great thread.

stl01civic

iTrader: (12)

That is because his car has no tunning. You have to dyno tune to get everything smoothing out. Plus a safc2/vafc2 is not good for tunning.

Nokturnl

iTrader: (20)

to tune it with out fighting the closed loop system the EMS is the ONLY system out there for this application. Otherwise you will at least get a cel light for trying to up the idle with the set screw (tried it). AND it will idle from 800 to about 1700 rpms back and forth till the stock ECU gives up trying to correct the signal your vafc/emanage is giving it trying to correct the other way. Emanage says "gimme mo more fuel" and stocker ECU says "wait a sec that ain't right take it out". Eventually the stock ECU will give up but not untill it makes your car sound bad. It does this cycle every time you stop at idle after driving......yup every stoplight home. And only EMS can change stock idle point.

ncirom2003

iTrader: (7)

well i just bought a turbo kit and i plan on running it at 10psi its got 2 extra injectors(incase that matters) and i was going to get the stage 2 turbo cam than maybe stronger internals and turn up boost to like 17. what electronics should i get? (i think ill need to get the vafc2 cus im swapping from lx to ex head.

meowdog

hi, i have fitted crower stage2 cams into my civic04 EX. running on emanage and the check light comes on almost everyday. i adjusted the idle valve using the set screw...how do i adjust the idle set screw back to original settings? im sick and tired of the check light. but yet, sick of the vibrations the stage2 cams are giving me. yes, the gains from the stage2 cams are good. but the benefit does not exceed the costs and pain im getting.

would be trying out hks fconSZ to try to control the idle...any comments?

ncirom2003

iTrader: (7)

how low do the rpm's drop? (so i can get an idea of how the car vibrates)

IS everyone getteing these check lights everyday? cus i wont pass for my sticker if i have the light on. and im worried it wont pass emissions with the stage 2.

cwick187

Not to go off topic, but has anyone had any expierences with the stage one cam??? It just makes me wonder if Crower even R&D'd any of these cams for our car...It was said that the stage 2 didn't cause any idle problems..Correct me if Im wrong

meowdog

after adjusting the idle set screw, finally got it to idle at 1100rpm to about 1300rpm..it jumps about...w the headlights on at nite, there would be compensation and it would idle around 1400 to 1550rpm...

however, whenever im stuck at traffic lights for a long time, the rpm would slowly drop from 1100rpm til about 750 or sometimes even 650...the exhaust gets really lopey..sounds like a boxer WRX...but with lots of vibrations. i can feel it on my clutch pedal. it's really irritating. usually im not very **** about little vibrations or weird sounds but this time i've really lost my cool. the car just cant idle properly. even after resetting the ecu, the problem would surface within 2days.

does anybody have the same problem as me?

meowdog

not sure about the US emissions, but after stage2, it definitely is very smelly...i had decat my car before installing stage2 cams...it wasnt tt bad...but when the cams were put in, woah...i cant even stand outside my car for a smoke when i warm the engine in the mornings. have to stand much further away.

meowdog

anyone out there has tried the aem ems? can it really really solve the idle problem?

i'll be fixing my hks fconSZ next week. would do a feedback...

Blahman240

Give some good power? I want the race cam.

kezay

iTrader: (2)

Actually I have the same issue however I love the way it sound while idleing. The problem with the cam is that the ignition timing, fuel maps etc. desperately need to be dyno tuned also cam timing. Because I have in the stage 3, and every time that I reset my ecu the car run real sweet (pulls like crazy) but after like about 5 minutes the ECU goes into closed loop mode and it runs like **** (boggs, no power, idle's very bad, very difficult to rev past 6000 RPM etc) . So I have come to the only conclusion that the EMS is the only way that the cams will work like a dream.

ncirom2003

iTrader: (7)

bogging.......I HATE BOGGING with a dam passion.
i know this is an issue most probably dont care about, but how has your fuel usage changed?
whats the estimated mpg your getting while driving city conditions, driving normal most of the time but goofin off and hammering it when you get the chance.?

kezay

iTrader: (2)

Gass mileage is pretty much unchanged but the car is running too too too too rich.

ncirom2003

iTrader: (7)

how can you adjust that?

yourinmyw0rld

iTrader: (12)

This where you need to go

03-Acura-1.7-EL

iTrader: (14)

Dont want to sound off beat, but in turbo d17 to fix idle (make it smoth and kill vobrations and blah-blah-blah....) we use "synopse missing link".
If some one can try it out with d17 n/a + stage 2 cam, I think this where the problem is....
Well if you dont try, you wont know.
This just a theory, so you cant prove it wrong without trying.
Also, CEL - use secondary o2 sensor simulator.

Blahman240

this could be the answer, lets hope it is.

se7engen_riDe

did anybody dyno their car with the cam on yet???????????

meowdog

kezay, any idea if fcon sz can work too? cos there isnt anyone in my country who brings in aem ems and knows how to tune it. it runs rich in the low end/idling due to the overlap but in the high end, it is running quite lean. my mech suggested changing fuel pump to Evo7 and injectors.

i dun mind the lopey idling. it's the vibrations which is irritating the hell out of me. feeling the vibration at ur accelerator and clutch pedals; and if ur clutch is not released well, the engine rpm would bog all the way down to 650rpm and takes a split second of revving to get it up again.

kezay

iTrader: (2)

meowdog the fcon is only designed to controll fuel however we need something to controll the ignition timing, raise the rev limiter, adjust the VTEC point, and also to controll fuel. The AEM EMS is the easiest choice for us. However the greddy e manage would be able to controll both fuel and the ignition timing but I have come to the conclusion that if I am going to but anything to tune my car I am going the AEM route. (Just do it right the first time around)

ncirom2003

iTrader: (7)

doesnt the e-manage also control vtec engagement rpms?

wborocivex

kiiinda off topic,, but im lookin into just puttin the stage 1 crower cam in w/ an aem cam gear.. will this be safe and effective?

cwick187

No one has tried the stage 1 cam on here yet, that I know of...Go ahead and try it...Im thinking about it, but don't know when I'll be able to try it

Vantage

I think stage 1 is a little waist of time, maybe 5 whp gain? seems kinda not worth the $$. But does any1 have any Dyno's of a tuned stage 2?

ncirom2003

iTrader: (7)

^^ on the contrary, stage 1 doesnt need the springs/retainers and when paired with good I/H/E system it should show good gains you figure its 350 bucks and he might get 10whp thats 35 bucks per hp, thats good. and if he got e-manage to adjust a few things that would make it even nicer set-up. plus he probly wont have to deal with crappy idle, cel's left and right or other lil problems. and its only a few hp less.

wborocivex

yeh this guy im'd me about a stage 2 camshaft with springs for 675.. but i just wanna get the stage 1 for like 380 so i dont have to worry about springs and ****.. they say u get 7-10 to wheels with taht soo w/e.. sounds good to me.. btw.. u guys know a good estimate of having a camshaft installed?