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Update - Its DONE!

Old Aug 30, 2004
  #91  
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how is this thing mounted i have yet to see a sf kit installed and up close. my friend had to mod his turbo inlet to point a different direction to properly mount the i/c. he had the elbow cut off and re welded. is there any kind of elbow or extension that you could trim to give more room with the rad. inlet?
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Old Aug 30, 2004
  #92  
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Originally Posted by familycar
how is this thing mounted i have yet to see a sf kit installed and up close. my friend had to mod his turbo inlet to point a different direction to properly mount the i/c. he had the elbow cut off and re welded. is there any kind of elbow or extension that you could trim to give more room with the rad. inlet?
Look at the pictures. Its right behind the crankcase breather filter.

I don't know about the grommet - I tried using that, but the damn thing was just ready to blow out. Which is why I used silicone - however, it appears that its not holding, which means that I may have to try something else, like epoxy!
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Old Aug 30, 2004
  #93  
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opto---> what size is your intercooler piping? I need to find out if my hood is gonna clear that pipe..
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Old Aug 30, 2004
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Originally Posted by RiceRocketeer
opto---> what size is your intercooler piping? I need to find out if my hood is gonna clear that pipe..
2.5" - bigger than my exhaust piping...

My exhaust is a magnaflow - only 2.25"

Went for another ride to get some gas, wouldn't you know - too much excitement, I forgot my wallet!

Get some tomorrow. Everything appears fine - just don't want to fry my ringlands with detonation. 89 octane.....hmmmm

I think it spools up around 3500-4000 RPM, partial throttle I can tell its bucking a little bit. Damn ULEV ECUs like to cut injector duration to 0 when the foot comes off the gas - that worries me (my wideband show AIR). I tried adding some injector duration with the emanage - but until I have more time to study things I have to keep my lead foot off the gas so I don't end up like this guy.
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Old Aug 30, 2004
  #95  
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Originally Posted by opto_isolator

I don't know about the grommet - I tried using that, but the damn thing was just ready to blow out. Which is why I used silicone - however, it appears that its not holding, which means that I may have to try something else, like epoxy!

http://www.7thgencivic.com/forums/sh...ght=IAT+sensor
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Old Aug 30, 2004
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Originally Posted by opto_isolator

Get some tomorrow. Everything appears fine - just don't want to fry my ringlands with detonation. 89 octane.....hmmmm

i was running 93 octane like 2 months b4 i actually was boosted b/c i wanted to make sure i had higher grade fuel and plus i kept expecting SF to get my kit to me.
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Old Aug 30, 2004
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Originally Posted by civic01vtec
i was running 93 octane like 2 months b4 i actually was boosted b/c i wanted to make sure i had higher grade fuel and plus i kept expecting SF to get my kit to me.
Yeah - its good insurance from what I understand.

If that idea with the IAT doesn't work - I think I am going to try high temperature hot glue first. The other method with screwing it in would require me to do more ghetto rigging currently than I want to at this point (even though it is a more proper method for attaching it).
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Old Aug 30, 2004
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Originally Posted by opto_isolator
2.5" - bigger than my exhaust piping...
hmm, do you know about how much room you have left after the hood is closed and the intercooler pipe is there? I have some "invader style" hood and I just wanted to know if I will have enough room to put a 2.5" or if I have to put 2 1/4"

edit: oh yea, does ic piping get extremely hot? because if it does I may have to wrap it so it doesn't ruin my carbon fiber hood, since it will be in such close proximity...
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Old Aug 30, 2004
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Originally Posted by opto_isolator
The other method with screwing it in would require me to do more ghetto rigging currently than I want to at this point (even though it is a more proper method for attaching it).

tell me about...........i have been boosting for 4 months with my IAT sensor just tied up
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Old Aug 30, 2004
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Originally Posted by civic01vtec
tell me about...........i have been boosting for 4 months with my IAT sensor just tied up
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Old Aug 30, 2004
  #101  
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OK I made a DIY a long time ago on how to do the install... The pics are gone but I can email them to you opto if you want. I bought a bit and a pipe tap, dremeled the 4 "teeth" down on the end of the IAT sensor, and it screwed right in, no leaks, and looks 100% OEM.
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Old Aug 30, 2004
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I dont have pics in my gallery yet however this is what I did about my IAT. I used my existing Injen intake piece that has a bung welded with a rubber grommet. The IAT fit right in their tightly. Honestly, at 6psi it's not enough pressure to push it out. At 18 psi, which you will not see with a D17 unless you have lots of stupid money, it may pop out. Mine is in there with no epoxy or glue and I checked it and it hasn't moved a mm. I think you'll be ok. Im going to post better pics in my gallery prolly tomorrow. Not sure tho...I have to paint the bowties on a set of Chevrolet Aluminum Valve covers on a Merlin III Race engine......big block 540.......700 ft lbs TQ..YA!
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Old Aug 31, 2004
  #103  
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Originally Posted by Titleist71
I dont have pics in my gallery yet however this is what I did about my IAT. I used my existing Injen intake piece that has a bung welded with a rubber grommet. The IAT fit right in their tightly. Honestly, at 6psi it's not enough pressure to push it out. At 18 psi, which you will not see with a D17 unless you have lots of stupid money, it may pop out. Mine is in there with no epoxy or glue and I checked it and it hasn't moved a mm. I think you'll be ok. Im going to post better pics in my gallery prolly tomorrow. Not sure tho...I have to paint the bowties on a set of Chevrolet Aluminum Valve covers on a Merlin III Race engine......big block 540.......700 ft lbs TQ..YA!
Yeah - I think I found an answer last night after reading everyone's posts.

I am going to try and glue a nut to the silicone coupler - either with high temp hot glue, or gorilla glue (which is polyurethane based). Suppsedly either should work. That way I can screw the IAT into the nut rather than tapping anything. The ideal solution would be to insert a metal piece in there and run it thatway - I may re-evaluate my options.
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Old Aug 31, 2004
  #104  
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Just out of curiosity is there a reason why you couldnt mount the IAT sensor on the intake side of the turbo and not the boosted side? I would think this would eliminate the problem with it falling out and also would read a cooler temp to run a little richer? Or does that not matter with the e-manage?
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Old Aug 31, 2004
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Originally Posted by tfnaaf
Just out of curiosity is there a reason why you couldnt mount the IAT sensor on the intake side of the turbo and not the boosted side? I would think this would eliminate the problem with it falling out and also would read a cooler temp to run a little richer? Or does that not matter with the e-manage?

It would actually be a lil less accurate if you did it that way. The pipes may get hot, and your intercooler will change the temps a lil. Closest to the TB is the most accurate.
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Old Aug 31, 2004
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Originally Posted by tfnaaf
Just out of curiosity is there a reason why you couldnt mount the IAT sensor on the intake side of the turbo and not the boosted side? I would think this would eliminate the problem with it falling out and also would read a cooler temp to run a little richer? Or does that not matter with the e-manage?
The IAT needs to be mounted right before the throttle body. Its purpose is to measure the temp of the intake charge before it enters the engine. This actually effects timing. If its too hot the car retards the timing - which is why its important to have it connect - or your car may detonate...
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Old Aug 31, 2004
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Originally Posted by opto_isolator
Yeah - I think I found an answer last night after reading everyone's posts.

I am going to try and glue a nut to the silicone coupler - either with high temp hot glue, or gorilla glue (which is polyurethane based). Suppsedly either should work. That way I can screw the IAT into the nut rather than tapping anything. The ideal solution would be to insert a metal piece in there and run it thatway - I may re-evaluate my options.
Revised - looking into GE silicone caulking...That stuff is supposed to stick to anything! I've used it before when building speakers, its messy stuff - but may work. Going to test it first.
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Old Aug 31, 2004
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Originally Posted by opto_isolator
Revised - looking into GE silicone caulking...That stuff is supposed to stick to anything! I've used it before when building speakers, its messy stuff - but may work. Going to test it first.

lemme know how it works out for u........i may use Madwheel's way or just use the grommet from my CAI.
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Old Aug 31, 2004
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makes sense, i wasnt aware that also effected timing
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Old Sep 2, 2004
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Good news - just checked the compression - around 135 for all 4 cylinders! Tightened the clamps, made sure everything looks good. The car is starting to idle better now, learning the new fuel injectors better.

The valves a little noiser than previously - They will probably need adjustment (at only 35k miles!).....

Other than that - I really don't want to beat on it yet because I need tuning. Too bad the f'n hurricane is coming right for us. I'm sure we'll all be without power for a while - which means no tuning!
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Old Sep 2, 2004
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awesome man, yea this hurricane francis is a turd, no hurricanes at all...until august then they wanna come back to back. But good luck once you get it tuned
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Old Sep 2, 2004
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opto! im so happy for you!! you finally got boosted! im still pooping around until dec when i get my bonus (i hope!) and im gonna go all custom (slp return kit, aem ems if its out!, and all the rest of the goodies!) ,t3/t4. how do you like the boosted 7thgen? -- Jeremy
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