Boost spikes and BOV's
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Boost spikes and BOV's
Im having a lot of trouble w/ boost spiking. At around 4000 RPM's I make 9 psi and then the waste gate opens and my pressure drops to 5-6 psi. Do you think that If I installed a "pop of valve" that limmits boost to 9psi I could turn up my boost controller to make full boost through the rest of the powerband?
Here's the pop of valve Im looking at. valve
Can the greddy tytpe S be use in the same way? It has the secondary port as well...look here
Or should I use this
Here's the pop of valve Im looking at. valve
Can the greddy tytpe S be use in the same way? It has the secondary port as well...look here
Or should I use this
Last edited by RiceBuRNeR; Oct 1, 2003 at 05:25 PM.
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Originally posted by ohmysac
what boost controller are you using
what boost controller are you using
Im hoping that I can just get the greddy relief valve and then turn up my BC a few turns.
BTW: did you ever think about those CAD drawings? (need to know soon, Gotta pic a project drawing for class)
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yeah i think i'll have you do one...mine is gauranteed not to spike...if it does just send the unit back (write return to sender on envelope and they'll be no charge) and i'll refund your money...
i'll cut you a deal...20 bucks shipped and a cad drawing...hows that sound?
i'll cut you a deal...20 bucks shipped and a cad drawing...hows that sound?
Riceburner just a simple suggestion it may be best for you to get an electronic controller as someone else stated. Many of the newer units have functions that not only allow boost control but allow you to set gain per rpm in the various gears. Although more expensive going to a electronic boost controller in my rx-7 as opposed to a manual helped greatly.
Not to mention that you don't really want to rely on your bov to control your boost. It's simply there to keep your turbo from experiencing compressor surge. To properly control boost you want to rely on a good boost controller/wastegate combination.
gettin a manual boost controller with fix that ... my buddy had the same problem in his H22 turbo accord .. he had an XS manual one and he upgraded to a greddy Profec B much easier to deal with.
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manual boost controllers are very hard to work with not to mention how inaccurate they can be. most manual boost controllers require a trial and error to get them correct since you have to keep setting it and checking the boost with you gauge inside, while with an electronic boost controller you just set it and know that the boost you selected is what you will be running.
You also have to consider weather and air temp with a MBC. Mine spikes at 12psi when it is cold dense air. Hot and humid I am good if I get 10psi. Something to think about when summer is around the corner.
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IF your pressure is dropping off way too earlier is your wastegate... damn... so many amatuers... naw j/k... but after working around DSM's way way too much... i can tell you right now an electronic boost controller is a waste... it's just for if your a lazy *** and wanna turn up ur boost inside ur car... you need to fix the wastegate to not fully open at only 4000 RPM.... do some researching on wastegate probs... and u'll figure out how it is very easy and free to fix....
^^Right on, running a 5psi actuator when i spike at 8 it'll drop til 5psi and stay there from 4500rpm-redline...my dual stage XS boost controller was always set at either 4.5psi or 8psi and did not creep, all i did was had a custom actuator made to open only at full boost, which in my case was 8psi and the actuator dropped me to 7psi
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