Rep Power: 211

I decided to install the lip to check fitment and mock it all up on the car to see how it looks, and I really love it...it's going to look very nice with new paint and the coilovers...and rims.


Also ran out of room in the old tool chests, so we upgraded

 
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It's looking really good man, I cant wait to see the finished product

 
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Nice new tool box.

 
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Love it, dude!

 
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What could this be...

Booyahh!


Started putting one in...discovered I need a new ball joint and castle nut, and also discovered that the strut bearing is not a sealed unit, not sure why I didn't think of that, seeing as how I've done this before on another car...ball bearings everywhere :S

 
Rep Power: 294

Man. You've made some progress, bro! Need to follow this thread a little closer. Great work so far. I've never seen placement of the aerocatch latches in that location before. Where did you exactly did you place the pins? I usually see the latches above the headlights, with the pins inserted where the rubber bumps stops go.

 
Rep Power: 211

Thanks! Actually, I just noticed, if you look at the pic of the GC box, right next to the bottom right corner is one of the pins, right behind one of the stops. There were holes already in the car on both sides, so I just lined everything up to work.

I've taken a break with the GCs as the tie rod ends are FUBAR with rust and they are getting replaced, and I've been wrestling with the lower shock mount bolts in the rear for 2 hours and still can't get them out - I'm too weak to turn them with a ratchet, my electric impact gun is too long to fit between the LCA and the bolt, and my compressor isn't set up yet at my new place, so air tools aren't an option...oh well, I'll get back to it tomorrow and see if I can't get them out.

On a better note, I welded the lower O2 sensor bung in. so all that's left to do on the exhaust is bolt it up to the header and clamp everything down.

I also have a question for anyone who has put racing seats in their car: I bought some ractive seats for a really decent price, and have managed to retrofit the stock rails to fit, but the seat sits up pretty high, to the point where I only have about 1.5 inches from my head to the roof, and the seat won't recline forward because it hits the roof, meaning the passenger seat won't go forward enough to make getting in the back easy. Does anyone know where I can get rails that are designed to work with aftermarket seats?

 
Rep Power: 211

More pics!

As per Ortwein's advice over on NorthernImports.com, I siliconed the f**k out of the header/downpipe gasket, and now, although a bit messy, she's sealed up tight.


And that completes the exhaust. Here's a pic of what was changed. The welds are a bit messy, but they're sealed and they hold well.


And, lastly, I figured I'd put up a pic of the passenger strut installed with the GC coilovers. Once i fix the threads on the drivers side tie rod nut, I can put the wheels on and drop the front end.


After that, its time to limp over to a shop that can crack the the outer tie rod ends and the rear lower shock mount bolts loose so I can steer without wondering if a nut is gonna come off, and can finish the back springs.

 
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Where did you get your center dash piece? I wanted to brighten up my car a little, maybe silver or even some sort of woodgrain would be cool...

 
Rep Power: 211

Krylon hammered finish silver plastic paint - I used it to paint all of the silver pieces in the car. As long as its prepped properly, it looks great.

 
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that steering wheel has got to go bro

 
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Give me a momo wheel and maybe it will!

 
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Nice progress!

 
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The EP3 wheel looks nice on our cars

 
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Actually, I'm not a fan of the EP3 wheel...just not ricey enough for my taste. I mean I'm not going for a rice look overall on my car, but there are just a few things I really like, such as the style of wheel I have (minus the fake cf) and the ridiculously short shifter

On another note, no progress updates to report since the last - I have a few more aesthetic things I can take care of, but I've had homework, and Skyrim lol

 
Rep Power: 222

I personally love the steering wheel.If I had one,I'd feel like I'm driving a Super GT500 NSX or HSV

 
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i had one of those that bent after a while. I went to an s2000 wheel and I have never looked back. Its small and balanced, adds substance to the steering feel.

 
Rep Power: 222

oh and it also has cruise control buttons. CC FTW

 
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I'm looking at adding cc to my car at some point...I know it's not something people often do so it should be fun

 
Rep Power: 222

dude man I'm in the same exact sinking canoe. I have the buttons on my steering wheel. That's as far as I have gotten with adding CC to my hatch. They sell kits for 200ish for good kits. You can acquire the stock **** too but I dunno how easy it is with your 7th gen

 
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Making great progress!

 
Rep Power: 211

There's a guy on the FS forum selling the control unit and throttle cable for $50 but I haven't gotten a response on the shipping and so on so I dunno what's going on. If I can get my hands on that then all I need is the buttons and the wiring harness and I should be golden, provided I don't screw it up.

 
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I've been reading up on using eibach gc's but im not sure how well the stock struts would hold up when you lower the car.

 
Rep Power: 211

Well I've only got the fronts done right now cause I need to get the car to a shop to crack the rear shock mount bolts loose with torches (I don't have access to these), but I will say this: at the highest ride setting, these drop the front at least 2 inches, and a 2" drop + original stock struts = a carnival ride over bumpy roads. My desire for a lower ride has overcome my common sense, so I'm keeping them in until I can afford the Tokico D-Specs, but don't expect to take your car racing on stock struts, that's for sure. On the brighter side, I really like the stiffer springs, and it improves the look dramatically.

 
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Wow that bad? Screw that noise. All of the roads around here need repair, so I'll just keep saving and won't bother putting them on early.

 
Rep Power: 222

the rears could be bucking yyou up and down, you can always get softer springs for the GCs from eibach. If you save your pennies and get konis you can raise it a kunt hair higher for ground clearance.

 
Rep Power: 285

If you're referring to the lower bolt, which attaches the shock to the trailing arm, it's unlikely torches will be the solution. The lower bolt has a tendency to seize to the metal sleeve within the bushing, no impact or torch will ever break that free. The solution is cutting the bolt on either side of the shock freeing the shock, then removing the bolt. It's a fairly simple job with a saws all or grinder, even a hack saw if you're patient since those are high grade bolts

I've had this happen to at least one side of the car on 3 em2s, since lots of my friends happen to own them as well and I do most of their repair work.

 
Rep Power: 211

Yea I was just reading up on that, and one guy managed to get it loose with heat on the bolt head, a lot of pb blaster, and a good impact wrench...I have all of those (maybe not a "good" impact wrench), so I'm gonna give that a go when I decide I"m not so lazy...in the meantime:



This little f**ker died on me on the way to a buddy's place to go see Rally of the Tall Pines in Bancroft, ON, and turned my car into a powerless moped that weighs 1800 pounds...I wasn't impressed >

Oh, its the cam position sensor, if you're wondering :P

 
Rep Power: 285

Hopefully it comes off with just a bit of heat, that's less of a hassle than cutting it.

 
Rep Power: 211

New wheels came in today!

Yes, I know what you're gonna say: "Common rims are common" - But I really like the style, and these were a really good deal!



Rota Slipstream - 17x7.5, Charcoal Black

Now I just need some tires and I've got me some fresh new shoes