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Getting back at that NA build, BUILD ON HOLD

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Old Mar 4, 2009
  #121  
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Re: Getting back at that NA build, BUILD ON HOLD

****, and I was paying them!
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Old Apr 21, 2009
  #122  
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Re: Getting back at that NA build, BUILD ON HOLD

ok Triz, i finally got the kpro and installed it last Friday. Putting in the stupid cam gear was the hardest part! Right now i am just running a base map the kpro has. I think the notes said it was for a stage 2 cam, i/h/testpipe/e. I had some miss firing and stuttering when i would just cruise. I changed the vtec point from 3800 to 2200 hoping that would help. It did a little but the car still stutter a little. it's very iritating as your just cruising down the road and your car feels like it's going into convulsions. lol After a day of driving i finally got an error code that says running to rich. I'm thinking i might need to retard the came a degree or so. I have it set at zero....... today i am going to call my tuner to see when i can get in.
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Old Apr 21, 2009
  #123  
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Re: Getting back at that NA build, BUILD ON HOLD

don't retard the cam it will do nothing. List up what mods you have on the car.
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Old Apr 21, 2009
  #124  
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Re: Getting back at that NA build, BUILD ON HOLD

Originally Posted by bomerman19
don't retard the cam it will do nothing. List up what mods you have on the car.
Intake
DC race header
Exhaust
stage two cam
PNP head
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Old Apr 21, 2009
  #125  
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Re: Getting back at that NA build, BUILD ON HOLD

Ok v-tec for the stage 2 cam should be set anywhere from 3800 to 4200 don't go all the way down to 2200 you will start to run into oil pressure issues when it gets to low. I would first disconnect the battery then reconnect the battery make sure your software is up to date and reload the map. every once in a while k-pro does develop a phantom and can cause this. I f that does not work check your grounds if you have a ground off any where it will cause problems. there is one on the trans one on the frame by the radiator to the water neck and right next to that one about an inch a way is small square connector with black wires that comes out of the wire loom and bolts to the water neck that is a ground also.

Next check your spark plugs they need to be the resistor type otherwise you will have all sorts of problems I recommend NGK BKR7E-11 they are good from stock to about 600hp unless your running nitrous and then you should go a step colder. and there cheap. Iridium's or platinum's won't get you any extra power out of this motor and with the way the coil packs are set up from stock you can shoot a spark halfway across the engine bay.

If it is still giving you problems check to make sure that you didn't knock the cam or crank sensor or the timing marks on both. Also make sure that you have the same rpm listed for your v-tec point in both upper and lower boundary windows.

if you are still having problems post up a datalog or pm me

Last edited by bomerman19; Apr 21, 2009 at 09:26 PM.
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Old Apr 21, 2009
  #126  
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Re: Getting back at that NA build, BUILD ON HOLD

**** this Site with it's double post and why the hell does it take so damm long to load up anything now a days

Last edited by bomerman19; Apr 21, 2009 at 09:25 PM.
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Old Apr 22, 2009
  #127  
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Re: Getting back at that NA build, BUILD ON HOLD

Originally Posted by bomerman19
Ok v-tec for the stage 2 cam should be set anywhere from 3800 to 4200 don't go all the way down to 2200 you will start to run into oil pressure issues when it gets to low. I would first disconnect the battery then reconnect the battery make sure your software is up to date and reload the map. every once in a while k-pro does develop a phantom and can cause this. I f that does not work check your grounds if you have a ground off any where it will cause problems. there is one on the trans one on the frame by the radiator to the water neck and right next to that one about an inch a way is small square connector with black wires that comes out of the wire loom and bolts to the water neck that is a ground also.

Next check your spark plugs they need to be the resistor type otherwise you will have all sorts of problems I recommend NGK BKR7E-11 they are good from stock to about 600hp unless your running nitrous and then you should go a step colder. and there cheap. Iridium's or platinum's won't get you any extra power out of this motor and with the way the coil packs are set up from stock you can shoot a spark halfway across the engine bay.

If it is still giving you problems check to make sure that you didn't knock the cam or crank sensor or the timing marks on both. Also make sure that you have the same rpm listed for your v-tec point in both upper and lower boundary windows.

if you are still having problems post up a datalog or pm me
Looks like I have some stuff to do lol I will try all these out and get back to you. Thanks for the help.
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Old Apr 22, 2009
  #128  
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Re: Getting back at that NA build, BUILD ON HOLD

hey bomerman or anyone around on here who knows NA stuff. Im lookin to get into the NA game. Ive got a pnp head with stage 1 cam. I havent put it on yet. What's your guys' opinions on vtec points. Im only running afc neo for now. Any other tuning i can safely do myself on the afc?
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Old Apr 22, 2009
  #129  
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Re: Getting back at that NA build, BUILD ON HOLD

3800 is about the best v-tec point for the cams I sometimes bump mine up to 4200 cause I don't want it switching on and off while highway cruising. if you go too low you run into oil problems. I guess with afc try to lean it out the stock ecu dumps a lot of fuel and watch out if all of a sudden your car feels like it is dragging dumptruck and you have a cat there is a good chance that the cat is clogged up with unburnt fuel and will cause the car to die from to much back pressure I had this happen when the car was stock no mods. Your best bet would be to get your self a wideband gauge so you know what is happening other wise there is not much you can do if you want to start going further you might have to step up to k-pro and that is a big step for many.
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