andyman97

iTrader: (14)

You know xproductionz has a downloadable pdf manual for free that tells you exactly how to troubleshoot all of your codes.... Just pull up his profile, the link is in his sig....

tuningmycivic

iTrader: (11)

i didn't know, but thanks for the info...

been tracing wires today and testing relays...all seems good. i'm wondering if i may just have either the wrong or a faulty O2 sensor

tuningmycivic

iTrader: (11)

manual didn't have what i needed.

sensor i had obtained from a member here seems to have been the wrong sensor. called the dealer today and the part number was different from the one they pulled up using my VIN. apparently, the 01-03s use a wideband-type O2 but the 04-05 use an "air/fuel sensor" according to the guy at the parts counter with it on his screen. and guess what? they hit me to the tune of $312.87 for a new one.

I put the old one back in tonight just for kicks and, lo and behold, afr's are somewhat stable (fluctuating from 14.2-15.2 during light and part throttle driving and pretty steady at 14.5 - 15.0 during idle). I'm still getting a CEL at initial cold startup. but if i clear it using my cheapo scan tool, it goes away and doesn't come back. guess I'll be returning that sensor unless somebody can explain to me how mine is faulty.

bueller??

speedfoos

iTrader: (17)

You've got it backwards Tony, 04-05s use a wideband, 01-03s don't. Other than that, I'm stumped. Thanks for getting in touch with Sean by the way. I owe you big on that one.

andyman97

iTrader: (14)

Clint's right. Honda doesn't refer to them as "widebands," they call them "air fuel sensors." And they are only on 04-05. You need the regular sensor for the 01-03. It sounds like a faulty sensor.

tuningmycivic

iTrader: (11)

well, what they call it is irrelevant to me, long as the part number is right. once i open the new one i can't return it so i don't want to put this damn sensor in only to find out it's not the problem, but for the life of me i can't find anything else wrong. all wires/connections/relays are good according to my digi multimeter and the sensor seems to work fine after the car is warmed up. is it possible the sensor has an open internal circuit when it's cold?? I'm not entirely sure how it works before it reaches operating temperature...

and no worries on that Clint. I sent him my info yesterday and he said he'd let us both know when they ship.

speedfoos

iTrader: (17)

You've got an 04-05 anyway, right Tony? Dumb question though. Since you're having electrical issues, have you checked your grounds? How about your alternator lead? I know some of my electrical issues seemed to go away once I upgraded my grounds, and plus my main alternator wire was cooked from being near my unshielded downpipe. just a thought.

tuningmycivic

iTrader: (11)

yep, cleaned em all with a wire brush before reconnecting them too. and the only issue is that 0134 code after a cold start. the wife drove it all day yesterday and only got it once last night when she had to go back out for a bit. so it's not everytime you start up, or even every time it's been sitting a while...frustrating, to say the least.

and my alty wires have been wrapped in heat sheilding since before my first boosted startup. no issues there...

andyman97

iTrader: (14)

Sounds like the heater element is gone. New sensor. Just make sure it's the right one. Your is an 04-05, right? And it's the primary? Just get on majestic....

andyman97

iTrader: (14)

Ok, I just checked the manual, it's the air fuel sensor (primary). You need to replace it with a new one. There are no troubleshooting steps for this sensor. Is the car an ex?

I haven't done any work on 04-05's so I don't know if the sensor clips are different between dx/lx & ex. The air fuel sensor from majestic for dx/lx is 122, for ex, it's 200.

tuningmycivic

iTrader: (11)

you're right andy, too bad i found it on Majestic after I had already ordered one at the dealer...the car is an 04 EX.

i'd like to believe it's the heating element, but why don't i get the code for the heating element, 0135, instead of the one for no sensor activity, 0134??

and that would be the million dollar question...
either way, the new sensor will be in tomorrow and to be honest, for 300 bucks, i'm seriously considering doing without. it only causes a rich condition every once in a while and it goes back to normal if i clear the code with my handy scan tool

hatE

iTrader: (3)

i've been having the same problem and have been goin thru exactly the same dilemma as u..lmk if it works..my other option that i was goin to check on was if the wire had gotten fried at the ecu..and thus tryin to get another 04 ecu and try to see if anythin changes

andyman97

iTrader: (14)

Well, there may not be a specific code for "o2 sensor heater". I don't know. Like I said, I've never had to troubleshoot widebands but I found it interesting that the manual had no troubleshooting steps for that sensor. Ditch whatever management you're using and get kpro. I know, I know, it's expensive, but to be realistic, what's more expensive, destroying a motor and replacing it, or getting a kpro that will run your engine perfectly?

filipinop1405

iTrader: (6)

Thats a good way to put it andy!!

speedfoos

iTrader: (17)

I like destroying motors. You learn more.

robbclark1

iTrader: (8)

and spend more

speedfoos

iTrader: (17)

Meh. It's a hobby. You're supposed to spend money on it.

What's the word Tony? That new sensore fix your probelms yet? Is your wife ready to firebomb the car and divorce you?

tuningmycivic

iTrader: (11)

ha ha...nah, haven't picked it up yet. it didn't come in til Friday and I went home to GA to visit my folks. I'm of the mind to say screw it and just get my cash back. it's easy to clear the code and hell, it's 300 bucks