Painted my headlights! 56K take a nap! **Updated with day time pics on 3rd page**
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Originally posted by infinite012
flat black from advance auto zone. i bet you can use any flat black paint though...
flat black from advance auto zone. i bet you can use any flat black paint though...
Yes, it's an Acura EL
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Originally Posted by WhiteCastle
what kind of paint are you guys using? I was thinking of painting my headlights white ^.^ matching the car and junk
I just wanted to reply to a few other comments here:
- You don't really need high heat paint for headlight housings. It doesn't get THAT hot in there. That said, if you were to do a white finish, I dunno if it'll go yellow in time. One other thing to worry about with white housings is if you get condensation and it happens to stay in there for a while, you'll really be able to see any kind of mold or discoloration that happens as a result.
- I used to use high heat barbecue paint (seriously) to paint housings black then a coat of Duplicolor Graphite wheel paint to give it a gunmetal glossiness. Since then, I've moved on to Plastikote black for blacked out headlights, and if I want a gunmetal finish, I'll spray on a coat (more like a dusting) of Duplicolor Wheel Paint (graphite)
- Plastikote paint black sticks to plastic, so no need to sand/primer the (plastic) chrome pieces, and it gives a finish that's plenty glossy, especially once you place the lens back over it. If you really wanna get shiny about it, plan to have your headlights off for a couple of days, then primer-sand-paint-sand-paint-sand-clearcoat-sand-clearcoat-sand-clearcoat-sand-clearcoat-sand-rubbing compound. It'll come out looking like a bodyshop did it. But I don't think you'd be able to tell the difference between the two unless you were comparing cars side by side.
- I do sedan headlights in the oven buy popping them in at 300F for 3-4 minutes. Coupes, same temperature for 2 minutes at MOST. Heck, I did a coupe headlight clearing on a really hot day and all I did was pop the clips and open it outside. Make sure it's 300F, not 300C, especially with those fancy schmantzy ovens with the digital displays! A friend of mine melted his because he didn't know which was which - I was in the room, and the smell and sight of a drooping headlight is heart-rending. I don't think I've ever had to wait longer than 5 minutes total at 300F for a sedan headlight. You really should check them at 3 then if you can't open them without minimal effort, pop them back in for another minute. Otherwise you risk warping/permanently bending the rear housing, which will of course result in the headlight not resealing properly, which leads to leakage and condensation.
- When resealing, I press the headlight housing and lens together, then pop it in the 300F oven for 3 minutes at most. As soon as I get it out I use spring clips to press the seams closed. They look like this:

Once the gap is closed up, for coupes you should be good to put the clips on. However, for sedans, and the paranoid coupe owner, I use Permatex Gasket Maker (the grey stuff) and run a bead all around the headlight:

My headlights are still condensation free from this method, and I've hit them with thunderstorms and pressure washers.
- One more thing, make sure you don't have any dust on the inside of the lens when you reseal. You'll notice it like two days later and it'll drive you mad. I keep either one of those air-cleaner spray cans or (if I have money that week) one of those swiffer refill cloth thingies. You don't want to use a paper towel (wet OR dry) or just any random cloth, as it'll put tiny scratches on the inside of the lens. I used to use terry cloth towels but the ones I got always left a tiny piece of lint on the lens so I had to use an air can anyway. Bah.
Last edited by TeLLy; Jul 27, 2004 at 08:09 AM.
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