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i could use a little help here, so the ECU die, I went out and bought one off of eBay along with the ignition mobilizer. It came with a new set of keys. I replaced everything in the first two days everything was fine I go to start today and get the green key light . Why?
No, i have tightened the alternator. Here's what i have, I have old ECU and ignition plus original ring. I have replaced the ECU along with a new ignition/ring that i purchased on EBay together. After replacing all 3 the car ran fine, expect for the fact is made squeaking noise. I did a little research and discover it was the alternator/ac belt. My son and i adjust the belt and the next morning i go to start the car i get the green key light.
No, i have tightened the alternator. Here's what i have, I have old ECU and ignition plus original ring. I have replaced the ECU along with a new ignition/ring that i purchased on EBay together. After replacing all 3 the car ran fine, expect for the fact is made squeaking noise. I did a little research and discover it was the alternator/ac belt. My son and i adjust the belt and the next morning i go to start the car i get the green key light.
I still all of the original parts. Please help!
So I couldn’t sleep last night, and decided to put back the original ECU and original ignition / Ring. Used the original keys and still (green key light comes on) FML. Please help.
Sadly, as time, gunk, and corrosion works it’s way onto the mounting points, the alternator can “loose” it’s mechanical grounding to the engine and that then results in the ECU being damaged.
Mostly properly torquing the bolts seems to avoid the issue, but we see lots cases where the adjustment wingnut was tighten, but the two main bolts were not fully tightened down and pop goes the ECU.
We have seen many, many people on this forum have that happen to them, because you would never “think” a loose mounting bolt would kill a ECU, but it can.
Before putting a “third” ECU on, good option is to remove alternator and sand bolts and mounting points back to shiny metal, best option is to do same and also install an additional ground cable from alternator body itself to the front frame.
The top bolt does not make a ground connection, only the lower two bolts need thoroughly cleaned. another thing to check would be the engine/trans to chassis grounds. Also the power cable on the alternator as well as the other connector on the alternator.
I do not know what else could have caused the immobilizer to all of a sudden not recognize the key. Did the replacement set you bought come with a second key? Maybe one was properly programmed but the other wasn't.
Yes the replacement set cane with a 2nd key, and I try that too. I’ll work on the car tomorrow. If you think of anything else please post it. And thanks again
I put in the ECU and immobilizer that I bought original and started to troubleshoot using the service manually and funniest thing happen, the car started! Didn’t do anything different then last time. Thank you for your time and knowledge, one last question where does this go? Lol
I put in the ECU and immobilizer that I bought original and started to troubleshoot using the service manually and funniest thing happen, the car started!
Good to hear. That is the driver side kick panel. It goes above the accel/brake pedals.
Yes that panel goes on the bottom of the driver's side dash. Flip it over, slide front groove into the white plastic V, push up on clip on the left and then twist to **** into hole on the right.
