Need advice
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i HAve and 03 civic and got a new spindle on my right arm. now i need to do the alinment on the front cause its pulling hard to the right . HOW DO U ADJUST CAMBER ON THE FRONT TIRES DO U NEED A CAMBER KIT? IF SO WHICH ONE? i just dont wana pay a shop to do it its to expensive.
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so ur telling me theres no way to do it urself? how much does alinment cost is there no tool to buy i want to be able to align my cars for life and not pay a shop every time. what the cost around theses days?
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It's around $50 a wheel.
You could get a very rough approximation of a proper alignment adjusting bolts, but it wouldn't be worthwhile because it would still be bad enough that you burn through tires. Go get an alignment done and when you see whats involved you'll understand why you can't just DIY and eyeball it.
You could get a very rough approximation of a proper alignment adjusting bolts, but it wouldn't be worthwhile because it would still be bad enough that you burn through tires. Go get an alignment done and when you see whats involved you'll understand why you can't just DIY and eyeball it.
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If you replaced the spindle yourself, you should have the mechanical experience to align it yourself. It will be a lot of work, but it may cost next nothing.
Park the car on level pavement. Keep in mind the street has a crown in it. Adjust air pressure to your preference. Eye ball the front tire just to see if it is far enough out to see.
Center the steering wheel and measure from one front tire to the other at the front and rear of the tires. That will tell you toe in. If the one tire is pointing straight with the steering wheel straight, adjust the other tire.
You can then measure chamber by placing a bubble level vertically against the tire. Compare to the other front tire.
That will get you as close as possible by eyeball and measuring what you can.
If it is close enough to drive safely, drive it long enough to get the tire hot. Park it and immediately pour water over the tire tread. Watch how the water evaporates. The hot part of the tread will dry out faster. Those parts of the tread will wear faster, and tell you how to adjust the alignment.
If the outer or inner edge of the tread drys out first, adjust chamber to take weight off the side of the tire that dried out first.
If you get a water drying pattern of feathering, you need to adjust the toe in. Most tire and auto part stores have a pad on the counter that has pictures of various types of tire wear.
It may take several tries to get it really close. If you get good tire wear patterns, your alignment is good. It is actually a good learning exercise, you will develop a good understanding of suspension components.
For the record, I have done this on my rear drive cars. I have not done it on a front drive car. The older I get, the easier it is to pay and get it done by a shop.
Park the car on level pavement. Keep in mind the street has a crown in it. Adjust air pressure to your preference. Eye ball the front tire just to see if it is far enough out to see.
Center the steering wheel and measure from one front tire to the other at the front and rear of the tires. That will tell you toe in. If the one tire is pointing straight with the steering wheel straight, adjust the other tire.
You can then measure chamber by placing a bubble level vertically against the tire. Compare to the other front tire.
That will get you as close as possible by eyeball and measuring what you can.
If it is close enough to drive safely, drive it long enough to get the tire hot. Park it and immediately pour water over the tire tread. Watch how the water evaporates. The hot part of the tread will dry out faster. Those parts of the tread will wear faster, and tell you how to adjust the alignment.
If the outer or inner edge of the tread drys out first, adjust chamber to take weight off the side of the tire that dried out first.
If you get a water drying pattern of feathering, you need to adjust the toe in. Most tire and auto part stores have a pad on the counter that has pictures of various types of tire wear.
It may take several tries to get it really close. If you get good tire wear patterns, your alignment is good. It is actually a good learning exercise, you will develop a good understanding of suspension components.
For the record, I have done this on my rear drive cars. I have not done it on a front drive car. The older I get, the easier it is to pay and get it done by a shop.
Last edited by Too Tall; 03-27-2011 at 10:39 PM.
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^Interesting tips, have you done your own alignments using these methods in the past?
If so, how good were the results compared to pro-alignments?
If so, how good were the results compared to pro-alignments?
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If so, how good were the results compared to pro-alignments?
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for easier adjustment, use plates with grease in between under the tires so you can change the alignment with the car on the ground.
To OP, pulling to one side is more likely toe, not camber
To OP, pulling to one side is more likely toe, not camber
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You can always do a huge burnout in your driveway and then pour the water on Good tips on the self alignment. I've heard of people drawing chalklines along their car and other stuff too but not totally sure how that works.
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for easier adjustment, use plates with grease in between under the tires so you can change the alignment with the car on the ground.
To OP, pulling to one side is more likely toe, not camber
To OP, pulling to one side is more likely toe, not camber
My explanation is brief, skipped a lot of details. You should have the wheels off the ground when making some of the adjustments, especially chamber.
I suppose the chalk lines are used a reference points.
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I still prefer to use steel plates with grease in between - they will move enough to do the job at ride height, especially the rears with the huge camber angle changes during the stroke.
Naturally, you can do it lifting the car, but you would need to measure the angles at rest, then check the angles when lifted and then change them, then remasure when you put it back in the ground.
Not saying against, just that this works easier and slightly more accurate. consider this comment as adding to yours
Naturally, you can do it lifting the car, but you would need to measure the angles at rest, then check the angles when lifted and then change them, then remasure when you put it back in the ground.
Not saying against, just that this works easier and slightly more accurate. consider this comment as adding to yours
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to the op an alignment at sears is 60 dollars and you get a warranty for a couple of months and they work on lowered cars. (well the one in my city does) so its not that expensive and like what mindbomber said watch what they do and you really will realize that paying is better than trying to do it yourself on this one.
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yeah, i know what i am doing so can adjust the alignment - unfortunately i don't have a flat surface back home to work on, so lots of adjustments...
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