is a tie rod seperator really necessary? I don't think it is...
03-31-2003
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is a tie rod seperator really necessary? I don't think it is...
the past 3 cars i've installed springs on i haven't needed a tie rod seperator. i've been able to just hammer up on the bottom of the bolt and it pops out. I haven't tried doing that before because i heard it was practically impossible to do. is this bad for the suspension, or have I just mastered a trick?
03-31-2003
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Rep Power: 299 You have just been lucky. It is very possible to do...BUT the danger is hammering on the end and messing up the threads or worse mushrooming the end thereby ruining a good end and pissing off the person you are doing the install for.
03-31-2003
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Rep Power: 0 i tried using a hammer but it wouldn't budge, & i've heard of people using a pickle fork & tearing the boot. so i just went to pep-boys & spent the $9 on a tie-rod seperator. & it worked perfectly!
03-31-2003
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Rep Power: 393 alot of people hammer it.. just remember to keep the bolt on the end. you have a less chance of damaging something that way. ya i used a pickle fork and ripped my boot, everythings still fine tho. was very easy to use. but ya if you can get one i suggest you get the tie rod seperator when you turn a bolt to seperate the tie rod
04-01-2003
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Rep Power: 294 my boots torn really bad.. i don't even think there's any grease left in it. all it does is lube that tie rod bolt that comes in contact with the strut, right?
04-01-2003
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Rep Power: 282 Just ask MaddonE if he should have used a tie rod separator.
For everyone that tore their boot, congratulations, you just accelerated the wear on your tie rod ends. It is not a question of if they will fail, but now it is a question of how much quicker they will fail. But hey, they only connect your wheels to the steering system.
There is a right way, a fast way, and a cheap way. You can only do two at any one time. By saving 65 dollars on a proper separator, you now get to buy two tie rod ends, install them, and get your car re-aligned. I have been a mechanic for many years and am always amazed when someone has to get a car fixed because they did it the mickey mouse way first. It always costs more to fix it afterwards than it would have cost to do it properly.
Some of you hit the rods with a hammer. You got lucky if they still allowed the nuts to thread on. If you want to save money and still drive a safe car, do it right! The tie rods were factory sealed and without lubricant will fail, usually within 10,000 miles.
I only say this to pass on correct information. When erroneous information is regurgitated, it does everyone a dis-service. What is worse, these tools could be rented for next to nothing. Much less than a trip to the emergency room for removing a spring without a compressor and much less than a vehicle crash due to a failed tie rod. It amazes me that some of you will spend thousands of dollars on accessories and skimp on things that truly matter.
I realize some of you will disagree. That is your right. But my tie rod ends are pristine with no tears of any kind. My car is aligned to OEM specs using camber kits. I have no abnormal tire wear after 20,000 miles. I am still on my first set of tires with lots of tread. I drive with peace of mind and feel safe. Do you?
For everyone that tore their boot, congratulations, you just accelerated the wear on your tie rod ends. It is not a question of if they will fail, but now it is a question of how much quicker they will fail. But hey, they only connect your wheels to the steering system.
There is a right way, a fast way, and a cheap way. You can only do two at any one time. By saving 65 dollars on a proper separator, you now get to buy two tie rod ends, install them, and get your car re-aligned. I have been a mechanic for many years and am always amazed when someone has to get a car fixed because they did it the mickey mouse way first. It always costs more to fix it afterwards than it would have cost to do it properly.
Some of you hit the rods with a hammer. You got lucky if they still allowed the nuts to thread on. If you want to save money and still drive a safe car, do it right! The tie rods were factory sealed and without lubricant will fail, usually within 10,000 miles.
I only say this to pass on correct information. When erroneous information is regurgitated, it does everyone a dis-service. What is worse, these tools could be rented for next to nothing. Much less than a trip to the emergency room for removing a spring without a compressor and much less than a vehicle crash due to a failed tie rod. It amazes me that some of you will spend thousands of dollars on accessories and skimp on things that truly matter.
I realize some of you will disagree. That is your right. But my tie rod ends are pristine with no tears of any kind. My car is aligned to OEM specs using camber kits. I have no abnormal tire wear after 20,000 miles. I am still on my first set of tires with lots of tread. I drive with peace of mind and feel safe. Do you?
Last edited by rickinthescv; 04-01-2003 at 04:42 PM.
04-01-2003
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Rep Power: 393 what exactly does the grease on the tie rod boots do?
keep it greased enough so that it turns properly? how, when the boot doesnt even twist.
keep it greased enough so that it turns properly? how, when the boot doesnt even twist.
04-01-2003
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Rep Power: 0 that happened to mine I had to pay for a new tie rod and it was $54 and the bolt that was stripped was $4 + installation was $80, it was a pain in the ****, your best bet is hitting it on the side of the shock where it holds the tie rod don't hit the threads.
04-01-2003
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Rep Power: 299 The tie rod end is a ball joint. It needs to be able to move and keep your steering connected to the strut while the suspension travels up and down also doing this while you turn right to left. If all it did was go right to left your car would have zero suspension travel, the first bump you hit would either bend or break something. Ball joints need lubrication to live long. let the grease out , and let dirt in shortens the life considerably. metal+metal+dirt = 
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