Rep Power: 200

So I was installing the A-Spec suspension yesterday on my EP3 and got three of the four combos in. The left rear trailing arm bolt was seized terribly and I ended up round off the head. Is there a way I can remove this? I'm going down the route of "will need a new bolt" which is fine by me, but I just want the darn thing out. Thanks fellas

 
Rep Power: 243

You can Dremel a slot in the head of the bolt , then take an impact gun, and flat head and get it out. You could also hammer a slightly smaller socket onto the end of it and use an impact gun. You will loose a socket but the bolt will be out. If all else fails you can get an Easy-Out and drill it out.

 
Rep Power: 200

Tried the smaller socket trick to no avail. It's rounded and slightly pointed at the top so it basically twists itself loose when tried to torque it off. Anything smaller also will not make itself down towards the back of the head. I've read that drilling through the shock and just to the bolt to get PB Blaster will work. The problem is that the bushing sleeve isn't Zinc plated, but the bolt is.... the two become one

 
Rep Power: 285

Use a reciprocating saw or an angle grinder to cut through the bolt and disconnect the shock from the trailing arm, the bolt seizes to the metal collar inside the bushing so unfortunately this is necessary. You could theoretically use a hack saw, but it would take a long long time due to the high strength of suspension bolts. Once most of the bolt is removed, you should be able to get a grip on the last piece of the bolt using vice grips.

 
Rep Power: 367

ouchie...
MB said most of them, so good luck, bud.

 
Rep Power: 352

spray the **** out of it with PB plaster. let it soak for a few hrs. then use a vice grip and take that nut/bolt off.

 
Rep Power: 285

Another thing to note, torching it should be the last option explored. Heating up suspension components is considered a very poor practice if they won't be replaced. The act of torching it, then spraying penetrating lube, tempers the metal and to a possibly dangerous degree increases the ductility of the metal which could result in a shear under load.

 
Rep Power: 200

Yeah I was not gonna resort to heating as it was the strut closest to the gas tank. The ol' reciprocating saw worked like a charm. After about a half hour of cutting it came out and the new strut went right in. Along with a new bolt of course. My dad wants to see if he can get that slug out now that's trapped..