New Suspension question
New Suspension question
I just ha D2 racing coilovers installed plus front control arm bushings. The car is making a noises when i turn. sounds like banging and clicking? Any ideas what this is? is it the new suspension breaking in?
Re: New Suspension question
This is my first upgrade and didnt have this noise before i had the new coilovers put on. the mechanic did tell me my control arm bushings were shot so i ordered the energy suspension kit to get those replaced
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Re: New Suspension question
Its very common for outer tie rods to be destroyed when you change your struts, here's the test.
Originally Posted by slowcivic2k
No, Inspecting tie rod ends can be done without the wheel, but you need a firm grip on the brake rotor (and thus the suspension) to feel any lash in the tie rods. The most correct procedure includes a "dry park" test.
This procedure requires that the wheels be on the front of the vehicle, and on the ground. Have an assistant wiggle the steering wheel while you hold onto the tie rod from underneath. (yes I know it is a tight fit.) Any slack requires replacement of the tie rod. This allows the full weight of the car to fight the steering, identifying joints that may not be loose on the next method.
The second method is preferred by most novice mechanics for its ease of inspection. It is the raised method. Raise the vehicle front end and support it. have an assistant shake each wheel, one at a time, while you monitor the tie rods on that side. Note any movement of the tie rod housing relative to the knuckle.
After the clearance test, if the joint passes, inspect the range of motion for the tie rods by turning the tie rods by hand left and right . If it is significantly difficult to turn, binds up, or has a "notch" worn into it where the joint feels very loose but is tight, suggest replacement.
Replacement is required if slack is present.
Replacement is suggested if the joint exhibits binding/notching during the range of movement test, or if the boot is compromised.
The inner tie rod is inspected the same way, but cannot be visually seen. The easiest way is to pull down on the tie rods with your hands. This is how you inspect the inner tie rod if the outer is loose, since pulling will force the outer tie rod into its socket further and remove most of the clearance. You will generally see the bellows boot notch in and out if the inner is loose.
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This procedure requires that the wheels be on the front of the vehicle, and on the ground. Have an assistant wiggle the steering wheel while you hold onto the tie rod from underneath. (yes I know it is a tight fit.) Any slack requires replacement of the tie rod. This allows the full weight of the car to fight the steering, identifying joints that may not be loose on the next method.
The second method is preferred by most novice mechanics for its ease of inspection. It is the raised method. Raise the vehicle front end and support it. have an assistant shake each wheel, one at a time, while you monitor the tie rods on that side. Note any movement of the tie rod housing relative to the knuckle.
After the clearance test, if the joint passes, inspect the range of motion for the tie rods by turning the tie rods by hand left and right . If it is significantly difficult to turn, binds up, or has a "notch" worn into it where the joint feels very loose but is tight, suggest replacement.
Replacement is required if slack is present.
Replacement is suggested if the joint exhibits binding/notching during the range of movement test, or if the boot is compromised.
The inner tie rod is inspected the same way, but cannot be visually seen. The easiest way is to pull down on the tie rods with your hands. This is how you inspect the inner tie rod if the outer is loose, since pulling will force the outer tie rod into its socket further and remove most of the clearance. You will generally see the bellows boot notch in and out if the inner is loose.
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