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I have some Megan Racing Coilovers on my 2001 Civic Sedan right now. They were installed around 2 weeks ago. I used chassis grease between where the perches and the spring meet, so that I don't get that annoying squealing sound. Got an alignment a couple of days later. Drove great.

Now, I'm noticing a loud thump over bumps on the passenger side front strut. First I thought, ball joint? Nah, that would be squealing. Bad tie rod? Nah, my steering would be wobbly. Last thing I can think of is the coilover itself.

I did set the preload on the spring a little too stiff, maybe. That may have been a mistake because the topping out is starting to get louder, and my steering has become affected (sagging towards the side of the coilover that is topping out). I am going to adjust them once the weather clears up today.

My question is, if I adjust the preload to allow a longer dampening stroke, will this problem potentially go away? Or am I looking at a bad coilover... which I REALLY hope is not the case of being because I shortened the spring dampening stroke?

And, what are the dangers in topping out your suspension? Not much is covered in this area...

 
Rep Power: 412

Did you set the preload to the correct height - meaning that when the car is jacked up, the spring should be snug between the mount and the collar, but you should be able to spin it.

You adjust the height by moving the shock body in and out of the strut.

Dangers = busting seals and leaking oil.

 
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Just got back from checking it out. The preload, according to you, was not set properly. So I loosened it until I was able to get some spin out of it. Unfortunately the squealing noises have arrived, lol. I guess all that pressure squeezed out all the grease or something.

I understand the height adjustment. I made the preload intentionally stiff but was not aware that it would top out as much as it did.

Fortunately, no seals were broken, and hence no leaking oil. The dragging-to-the-right was caused by the perch lock not tightened on the driver front side, so as I was steering, it was spinning off little by little. Had I not checked it, my suspension would've spun off.

Anyway, it's fixed. But now I'm stuck with toe-in on the driver front side. I know toe is adjusted primarily through the tie rod, and I don't want to spill another 80 bones for an alignment on one corner of my car.

I remember the guy loosening one nut on the inner tie rod and spinning another one to reach the desired toe... anyone know how this is part of the alignment is done so I can get in a quick fix before winter hits?

 
Rep Power: 388

I think its the rod coming off the steering rack that the tie rod end connects to, those have some adjustment to them.

Check out the link in my sig to fixing your coilover binding... aka, your coilover unscrewing itself. You need to get those locking rings REALLY tight. With road viberations they will come undone in notime, especially if you are on a really firm setting. I used the wrenches supplied and hit them with a hammer numerous times. Its tricky- kinda need a buddy's hand to hold the other wrench- or you can use your foot too if your running a solo show. You would think there would be a better way, but there isnt.

 
Rep Power: 412

Preload is a myth. Basically "preload" is shock stroke. Adjusting the preload to be "stiffer" doesn't do ****. Any spring that is a specific rate will still compress regardless of if it is set right or set higher in your case. Basically, you put the shock under undo stress.

Let the car settle for a few days, go back and make sure everything is tight, then go for an alignment.

Remember for the future, all coilovers with independent height adjustment, you set the spring in the same manner. It should be snug and should be able to be moved up and down while the car is jacked. You adjust the height by using the independent height adjustment. Preloading the spring does not do anything.