Camber kit? Yes or No
#1
The one and only....
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 614
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Rep Power: 0 Camber kit? Yes or No
Well I called a shop today to get a quote on lowering my ride, and they told me that it would require a camber kit. Is this true? I am not planning on slamming it, I just want to eliminated wheel gap. This shop quoted me $300!! Outrageous! So I have a friend of a friend that has a shop that will do it for $100. So do I need anything else besides springs? Thanks!
#3
BLDNPSI Mod
Hey! Look At Me!! I'm a Supporting Member!!
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Boise, Idaho
Age: 55
Posts: 3,318
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Rep Power: 303
Originally Posted by Echelon04
Well I called a shop today to get a quote on lowering my ride, and they told me that it would require a camber kit. Is this true? I am not planning on slamming it, I just want to eliminated wheel gap. This shop quoted me $300!! Outrageous! So I have a friend of a friend that has a shop that will do it for $100. So do I need anything else besides springs? Thanks!
If your getting camber kits front and rear INSTALLED for $100 your either getting CRAP parts or they miss quoted you
#4
The one and only....
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 614
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Rep Power: 0
Originally Posted by tfnaaf
If your getting camber kits front and rear INSTALLED for $100 your either getting CRAP parts or they miss quoted you
He is charging me $100 labor. Its a friend of a friend so he is doing it as a favor basically....
#5
Broken Road......
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Jan 2005
Age: 50
Posts: 1,825
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Rep Power: 255 Get the camber kit!!!! It could save you money in the long run. I only dropped my car an inch, but got the kit anyway. I'd rather spend the money on the camber kit then risk tearing up $650 worth of BFG tires.
#7
BLDNPSI Mod
Hey! Look At Me!! I'm a Supporting Member!!
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Boise, Idaho
Age: 55
Posts: 3,318
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Rep Power: 303
Originally Posted by Echelon04
He is charging me $100 labor. Its a friend of a friend so he is doing it as a favor basically....
#8
Registered!!
iTrader: (19)
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: po-town,ny
Age: 78
Posts: 4,312
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Rep Power: 290
Originally Posted by tfnaaf
We charge .5 hours for front and .5 hours for back @ $65/hour = $65 front and back. Just as a comparison and this is price for everyone.
#9
Registered!!
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: calgary
Age: 45
Posts: 115
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Rep Power: 0 from what i have read on these forums, a rear kit is essential when lowering the vic, but a front isn't really neccesary when staying around the 2" drop level. I've been on 2" drop springs for 7,000 miles and haven't noticed wear yet, but I don't drive much either. do the rear
#10
Retired suspension supermod.
Hey! Look At Me!! I'm a Supporting Member!!
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Gaithersburg, MD
Age: 45
Posts: 10,857
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Rep Power: 387 1) Read the FAQ
2) It is up to you if you want to save your money by not getting a camber kit or waste your money by getting new tires every year.
3) You should also get shocks
4) Read the FAQ
5) Educate yourself before slapping suspension parts on your car.
2) It is up to you if you want to save your money by not getting a camber kit or waste your money by getting new tires every year.
3) You should also get shocks
4) Read the FAQ
5) Educate yourself before slapping suspension parts on your car.
#11
BLDNPSI Mod
Hey! Look At Me!! I'm a Supporting Member!!
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Boise, Idaho
Age: 55
Posts: 3,318
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Rep Power: 303
Originally Posted by pon55
I'm good, very good! But dayum, you better! 1 hour in and out
#12
Banned
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 1,376
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Rep Power: 0 Neg. camber performance wise is good, but as said before it wears tires faster. However performance wise I am finding that it would be better to adjust just how much neg. camber that my car has so I may get a camber kit in the future.
BTW for those that know alot about this just how fine can you adjust the camber with a kit?? Is there a kit that is better for this than others??
BTW for those that know alot about this just how fine can you adjust the camber with a kit?? Is there a kit that is better for this than others??
#13
Jap-Euro Fusion
Hey! Look At Me!! I'm a Supporting Member!!
iTrader: (16)
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Washington DC
Age: 41
Posts: 13,151
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes
on
3 Posts
Rep Power: 399 You can fine tune it as much as you want. Rears you have no choice but the threaded upper arms, fronts, use plates, not bolts.
#14
Banned
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 1,376
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Rep Power: 0 ^^^Is this going to be a must for me when I go to fine tune my setup. As much as I understand the more neg camber that you have in the back will cause more oversteer which is good. However when the difference of - camber in the back compared to the front gets to great the oversteer gets unpredictable esulting in a car that is to lose. Is this correct???
#15
Jap-Euro Fusion
Hey! Look At Me!! I'm a Supporting Member!!
iTrader: (16)
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Washington DC
Age: 41
Posts: 13,151
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes
on
3 Posts
Rep Power: 399 Negative camber in the rear produces more cornering grip since the tire lays flatter when the car leans. Its more neutral than oversteer. You do not want more camber in the back than the front... its ugly. Running .5 to 1 degree less camber in the rear than the front should do it. Right now I'm at -2.1 front, -1.3 rear. I'll probably kick it to -1.5 next time I get the alignment checked. Oversteer is more generated by a balance bias. If you have a front that digs in, then rear gets real light no matter what. If the rear is also super stiff, it'll let loose. The key is to get the car to feel like its right on the edge of breaking loose, but you can't break it unless you really get in trouble.... a good test is if you can get the car to slide straight sideways.
#18
Registered!!
iTrader: (17)
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Orlando, FL
Posts: 231
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Rep Power: 257 www.camberkit.com There we have a camber faq page that should be helpful if you need any more basic info.
#19
Retired suspension supermod.
Hey! Look At Me!! I'm a Supporting Member!!
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Gaithersburg, MD
Age: 45
Posts: 10,857
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Rep Power: 387
Originally Posted by peteriap
www.camberkit.com There we have a camber faq page that should be helpful if you need any more basic info.
Trying to get people to buy things peter??
I am going to update the FAQ, mind if I link?
#20
Subarus FTW I do NOT miss my civic
iTrader: (9)
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Scottsdale, AZ
Age: 40
Posts: 4,595
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Rep Power: 0 I had some pretty crappy rear camber. It was at -3 and -2.8. I had eliminated the wheel gap, and wasnt slammed. Only a couple inches lwoer. I went through a set of tires pretty damn fast, and I had a complete alignment, toe was within specs, almost 0.00. My tired still wore pretty quick. After a month you will notice a good amount of wear inside your tires. Toe may be worse (usually thread get turned into toe over camber), but camber will definately eat your tires much much faster than stock. It is a lot cheaper for a camber kit, I finally got a camber kit, and new tires after that. So much nicer now. I have the rears set at -1, BTW.
#21
Registered!!
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
Age: 43
Posts: 548
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Rep Power: 0 I dont know what Pon was saying ... as the guy is saying he doesnt want his car slammed ...
So if your not slamming your car your FRONT definately doesn't need a camber kit, your rear will need it way before your front will.
God people lets give him good info please, noobs stay away
So if your not slamming your car your FRONT definately doesn't need a camber kit, your rear will need it way before your front will.
God people lets give him good info please, noobs stay away
#22
Registered!!
iTrader: (19)
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: po-town,ny
Age: 78
Posts: 4,312
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Rep Power: 290
Originally Posted by WhiteHalf
I dont know what Pon was saying ... as the guy is saying he doesnt want his car slammed ...
So if your not slamming your car your FRONT definately doesn't need a camber kit, your rear will need it way before your front will.
God people lets give him good info please, noobs stay away
So if your not slamming your car your FRONT definately doesn't need a camber kit, your rear will need it way before your front will.
God people lets give him good info please, noobs stay away
And don't call me no noob, that was last month!
#23
Registered!!
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Midwest
Age: 41
Posts: 110
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Rep Power: 0 Is there one camber kit this recommended over others? I am looking to do a whole new suspension setup this spring so I've been trying to do alot of reading and compairing products. I don't want anything to agressive because I do a lot of city driving, but I'm thinking some Koni yellows, maybe proline eibach kit and a good camber kit. I'm still torn between 18 or 17 in. wheels, depends on if I can get some lighter weight 18 I guess. Thanks for any advice in advance.
#24
Retired suspension supermod.
Hey! Look At Me!! I'm a Supporting Member!!
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Gaithersburg, MD
Age: 45
Posts: 10,857
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Rep Power: 387 SPC is recommended. Hotchkis is great but expensive. there have been probs with Ingalls. OBX, Eibach and Comptech all have one too but few people have them.
1) it doesn't matter if you lower your car or not, you can still get a camber kit for front and rear if you want the adjustability. Some racers who want to stay in stock racing classes get them to add more camber without throwing them out of the class
2) The front is only $20 and usually you can get the front and rear as a set so I suggest doing so. The front will be ok without one, but it is always good to have the adjustability in case you need it.
3) You are all noobs!
1) it doesn't matter if you lower your car or not, you can still get a camber kit for front and rear if you want the adjustability. Some racers who want to stay in stock racing classes get them to add more camber without throwing them out of the class
2) The front is only $20 and usually you can get the front and rear as a set so I suggest doing so. The front will be ok without one, but it is always good to have the adjustability in case you need it.
3) You are all noobs!
Last edited by robbclark1; 03-04-2005 at 04:46 PM.
#25
Banned
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 1,376
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Rep Power: 0
Originally Posted by robbclark1
3) You are all noobs!
#26
Retired suspension supermod.
Hey! Look At Me!! I'm a Supporting Member!!
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Gaithersburg, MD
Age: 45
Posts: 10,857
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Rep Power: 387
Originally Posted by bgoetz
We will always be noobs compared to you, oh great one . I wish there was a middle finger icon on here I would give you 2 because that is what I am doing now. LOL
#28
Registered!!
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Midwest
Age: 41
Posts: 110
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Rep Power: 0 Haha, been watching this site for over two years now. Just started posting recently when I bought a 04 sedan. One day I may not be a (noobie) but until then I'll keep posting and responding with the best of them.
Thread
Thread Starter
Honda Civic Forum
Replies
Last Post
Dave Brabant
6th Generation Civic 1996 - 2000
20
10-06-2015 12:44 AM
Hutch1051
Mechanical Problems/Vehicle Issues and Fix-it Forum
2
09-29-2015 09:20 AM