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Hello all, I have read several forums and watched several videos on youtube, and I would like to just come here for a final parts list check to make absolutely sure that I will have everything I need to perform the swap before I get started, and have the best parts to make sure I do it right. I am not concerned with budget on this build as I am going to take my time with it, and plan to swap and build the engine NA, and eventually if I want it faster or want to get into racing I will then build the engine for boost and get the turbo kit and do all that. But for now I would like to just port and rebuild the head and add any bolt ons and tune it to increase the HP, while maintaining reliability and daily drivability.
I have a 1997 civic hatchback with a d16y7 and manual transmission, and I am getting a 1992 acura integra from my friend with the B18B1 and manual transmission.
So I will have the non vtec b18 engine, manual transmission, transmission linkages, ecu, wiring harness, axles, radiator/heater hoses, (from the integra.)
And the carbon fiber cold air intake, transmission mounts, AC compressor, (and anything else I need from the Civic)
And I am going to get a Civic SI T bracket, a crv b20 2-post bracket mount, and crv b20 ac mount, and an OBD2 to OBD1 harness all from Ebay.
I plan to pull the b18 and have the head ported and rebuilt with bigger cams and gears and valve train components (any recommendations would be greatly appreciated for these parts as I have done more research on a Mini Me swap and already got a y8 head, intake, and ECU but have decided to B18 swap now that this integra has fallen into my lap, so I am still researching the best parts for the B18).
I would like to gain some decent power NA, I don't care for numbers as much as reliability and DD-ability, but I'm sure I can easily get over 200HP with cams heads exhaust and tune.
And about tuning, is it required to have something like Hondata? I dont know much about tuning or piggy back systems, but if its cheapish and easier to get a decent tune with then I wouldnt mind going that route, so any recommendations there would be greatly appreciated!
So if I am missing any other necessary parts or anything recommended to make the swap go smoother, and any recommendations as to the cams and valve train or other bolt ons (headers, exhaust, fuel pump, injectors, ignition, cooling, anything else I may be forgetting.) I would greatly appreciate it!
This will be my first swap with a honda, I have only ever had V8 Camaros in the past, so I am relatively new to everything honda, but I am loving it so far.
...I've never heard of a cheap tuning project going well, lol. Including my own.
stand alone systems are far more expensive but save you time, because the company programs a base map for you, and it will directly plug into your factory harness (for most quality stand alones).
piggyback ecus are cheaper because you need to pin out a harness adapter, and, need to tune a base map, which takes weeks to months of time to learn if you street tune yourself. Or bunch more money if someone else builds your map.
You wont need a tune though for mods which don't aggressively alter the timing or air fuel ratio.
You wont need a tune though for mods which don't aggressively alter the timing or air fuel ratio.
Lol yea, didnt mean cheap cheap. my main problem with tuning is the closest tuner is probably 2 hours away in Charlotte NC lol.
And I plan on basically changing everything with the head, valve train upgrades, cams and gears, port, maybe even a new throttle body or port the stock one and even an intake manifold if I find a decent price on an aftermarket one, as well as exhaust work, as I feel on a stock NA motor this is all that needs to be done to gain decent power and maintain reliability, but I feel this much change might require a tune.
I see the issue with piggybacking, however the hondata s300 is only $495 and they give you the tuning software so yes you could do it yourself, but I am completely inexperienced and would never be able to tune this by myself lol. So is there a service that sends you these base tunes like you were talking about? For instance for my old camaro I used ecmforless.com I believe it was, and sent my ecm to them and they flashed the chip and put a tune for everything I specified, camshaft, cold air intake, no AC, all the engine specs, the wheel and tire size, and all kinds of stuff, and they did everything for me and sent it back and it worked great. Is there anything like that for honda? To my knowledge they only did chevy ecms so I dont think I could just go through them?
Yes the s300 is probably a great solution since they specialize in honda tuning.
In running AEM FIC 6, because the 7th gen d17 ecu isnt chipped from hondata, so I had to uncover all of the stock sensor voltage and amperage peramitors, to build my maps.
Check your air amount sensor, either a mass air flow or manifold absolute pressure, sensor. If your vehicle is running a MAP sensor then you should be fine for most air flow mods with no tune. Since a Map relates fuel to pressure, rather than a pre throttle body maf, which is less precise.
I ran the fallowing with no tune and no issues. (d17a2)
-stage 1 cam
-custom manifold
-port and polish
-3" throttle body from j30 engine
-i/h/e
-low compression pistons for future boost build
Yes the s300 is probably a great solution since they specialize in honda tuning.
In running AEM FIC 6, because the 7th gen d17 ecu isnt chipped from hondata, so I had to uncover all of the stock sensor voltage and amperage peramitors, to build my maps.
Check your air amount sensor, either a mass air flow or manifold absolute pressure, sensor. If your vehicle is running a MAP sensor then you should be fine for most air flow mods with no tune. Since a Map relates fuel to pressure, rather than a pre throttle body maf, which is less precise.
I ran the fallowing with no tune and no issues. (d17a2)
-stage 1 cam
-custom manifold
-port and polish
-3" throttle body from j30 engine
-i/h/e
-low compression pistons for future boost build
Sounds good. Might have head rebuilt and maybe do some other bolt ons and then complete the swap and just see how it goes before tuning.
Probably just going to go with stage 2 crower cams and his steel valve springs and retainers, bout $680 total, may end up with p30 pistons and shorter head gasket for higher compression, and going to ask around to local machine shops and get TB head and intake all max ported, probably easiest and cheapest option for intake flow. Headers and exhaust will probably come next after head is done for good exhaust flow. I'm hoping to be anywhere near 200hp, like 180 is a reasonable goal, and a fairly high jump from the 106 from the d16y7 in the civic now, and it is a 2000 pound car lol. But I'm keeping AC and it already doesnt have PS so I feel it will be a fun daily.
probably going to be $200 total from ebay for Civic SI T bracket, CRV 2-post bracket mount and AC mount and the OBD2 to obd1 harness,
probably $700 total shipped for the cams and valve springs and retainers,
apparently p30 pistons are $100 a set used, going to check around for that.
found some cheap 4-2-1 headers and test tube sets for anywhere around $130-200. If my current exhaust would work with that I would just keep it and possibly do some fab work, weld the connection point from the integra to the civics exhaust to meet the header lol.
probably going to guess $200-500 for port and rebuild of the head TB and intake? The one shop ported and rebuilt both heads for the LT1 I had for like $150, so I'm just being conservative.
Im going to ask them for a quote on a full engine rebuilt as well, I don't want to sink too much money into it yet, and this is already maybe $1500 before I can even have the head on lol. But I'm just going to keep doing research on the best parts and the cheapest place to get them, and make my little dream honda lol.
You're probably aware but If you're going high comp pistons you'll need a tune right off the bat. And possibly larger injectors/fuel pump (but double check)
You're probably aware but If you're going high comp pistons you'll need a tune right off the bat. And possibly larger injectors/fuel pump (but double check)
yea that was part of my initial question, if I can run the crower stage 2 cams without the p30 pistons then I will. If anything I could cut back and do the stage 1 and valve springs with steel retainers. But tune wise I'm not sure how I would go about this without doing it myself, as theres no tuners around me. Any idea what injectors/ fuel pump would work for the stage 1 and stage 2? Just so I dont have to bounce between two products, just pick one and then I'm safe with whatever cam i get.
I would like the stage 2 because it will still work if I decide to boost later.
Are you sure it’s the B18B1? Unless the integra’s been swapped or you got the year wrong then it’s a B18A1.
he told me it was b18b1, but I just had him verify and it is actually a 92 b18a1, so the 140hp one. i believe the only difference is cams.
good call man!
he told me it was b18b1, but I just had him verify and it is actually a 92 b18a1, so the 140hp one. i believe the only difference is cams.
good call man!
Only difference I can think of off the top of my head is the intake manifold. Everything else is almost identical. The transmissions are different, but I wouldn’t stress it too much. Just get one from an si or gsr.
...Any idea what injectors/ fuel pump would work for the stage 1 and stage 2?....
I would like the stage 2 because it will still work if I decide to boost later.
Generally
-stage 1 is drop in, and will work with the stock fuel setup, as well as boost
-stage 2 is more aggressive, some manufacturers it will run fine and they suggest springs (though tbh I found the springs near identical at least for my engine d17a2, from Crower, and titanium retainers which I have seen useless since my retainers stick are tiny, you dont save much weight)
other manufacturers you'll need a tune to increase fuel
Stage 3 tune and injectors needed
Dont go crazy on injector size, bigger isnt better past a point. For my small 1.7L 500cc works well, when tuned. I'd guess the same for a 1.8L
Don't swap injectors until you can tune or it wont rune.
There was a guy here trying to run 1000cc injectors and had reduced the period (time sprayed) and voltage (amount sprayed), to the point where the injectors where not firing, and any small increase was too rich to run. Think he ended up buying a smaller set.
