Rep Power: 0

Hey guys!
So I own a 97 Civic 1.6 l 4 zylinder with around 200,000 miles on it. Engine changed around 60,000 miles ago.

I just came back from my vacation in Germany. The car stood in my driveway for about 5 weeks. Tried to start it, only cranked. Thought it was the battery and took it to AutoZone - a jump with a donor battery did not start the car. They said battery was dead so I bought a new one.
Car didn't start again. Now I ordered a spark tester to see if the ignition system and the 4 zylinders are working. I also have starter fluid which I will spray into the throttle and see if that starts the car for a second. Otherwise clueless.

Do you guys have any recommendations on what I should check next? I do need to have it running again soon but would like to safe the money and do it on my own.

Thank you and have a great night guys!!
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Rep Power: 367

usually the dizzy is losing voltage. check the dizzy cap

 
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I have spark on all 4 zylinders. So the distributor shouldn't be the problem right? I did take the cap off and there was oil and some dust where it seals to the distributor.

I can hear the fuel pump turn on when the key is in on position and the main relay clicking. New battery is in so that's not the problem.

Could it be that the fuel has gone bad/ the engine is flooded?
​Otherwise should I just buy a new distributor or would that be to risky since I have a spark on all zylinders. I'm going to check the spark plugs today to see if they are worn off.

 
Rep Power: 211

Try cranking it with gas pedal fully depressed. If it doesn't start then try starting spray + gas pedal fully depressed. If it still doesn't start disconnect the fuel pressure regulator (FPR) return hose and put a bucket underneath the FPR to catch fuel as helper turns the key to position 2 or 3 to engage the fuel pump. This test will show if fuel is getting to the fuel rail/unjectors.

 
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Thanks for the awesome tips guys! Troubleshooted the fuel system, was good. Figured out it was the spark plugs. Just got it to start! I do have a thin white smoke coming from the exhaust tho. Could it be that my engine is running a little rich?

 
Rep Power: 222

Could be from all the repeated start attempts, see if it clears up

 
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Dang it. Just tried to start again and failed. It tries and fails, tries and fails. It is rainy out might that be a problem?

 
Rep Power: 222

Cracked distributor cap or spark plug wires?

 
Rep Power: 211

Did you change the spark plugs recently? If so, were the old spark plugs electrode side wet (with fuel, coolant or oil) when you removed them? Are the new spark plugs wet? As Colin stated the cylinders may be flooded from all the starting attempts. A bit of white smoke coming from exhaust is normal on cold starts for engines but should stop by the time of reaching operating temp. If is smoke persist after reaching operating temp this is a general guide: white/grey = coolant leaking in cylinders, grey/blue = oil from getting past piston(s) oil rings or valve stem seals, dark/black = rich fuel condition caused leaky fuel injectors, lack of air in cylinders, lack of spark in cylinders or incorrect o2 sensor metering. Detailed in this read: https://meridianautocare.com/4-vehic...hat-they-mean/

Spark, fuel, air ...which one(s) is your engine getting too little or too much of to keep it from starting? You mentioned previously that it's getting spark but there's a difference in spark quality and with these engines it often comes down to a weak ignition coil not producing a high quality spark/arc. Try testing the coil's spark quality as shown in the video below. A weak (but not completely failed) o2 sensor may not throw a CEL but can cause either a lean or rich condition within the cylinders and effect starting. Try starting it with the o2 sensor harness unplugged from the o2. Incorrect mechanical timing (crank, cam) being misaligned by the timing belt skipping a tooth or teeth can cause starting (and running) issues. You may need to check mechanical timing. Low compression in one or more cylinders can cause starting and running issues and may need to be checked by doing a compression test.


You can uses either a test light as ETCG mentions or a long flat-head screwdriver that's metal shaft is connected to ground to check spark arc/quality.

 
Rep Power: 0

Thanks for the help! Replaced the entire distributor and my car works amazingly! New spark plugs make her run like a new car. Appreciate it!