7thgensurvivor

Got the head off. Some pics coming.

So the big question I have is should I continue with my plans to take the valves out, clean em up and reseat them. Thoughts? Pointers? Haven't found a good thread yet on a 7th gen DIY valve job. Thinking I want to do this while I have it open. Not sure if I need to replace the valve springs. Remember, this engine has 250k on it...

Pics of the head, block, valves, etc attached...

7thgensurvivor

Got it all buttoned up tonight and all the fluids back in her.

Tried starting it up, but no luck. Starter kicked in and just wouldn't fire. Not sure where to start. I'm beat for tonight. It'll have to wait for the weekend I guess. Was hoping to have it running for my daughter's b-day this weekend, but that doesn't look likely now.

Any ideas on what to check for first? I am going to get my bluetooth OBD scanner setup and see if I can figure anything out from that.

ezone

Is it timed correctly
Are the valves adjusted correctly
Are ALL of the sensors connected now? Cam and crank sensors?
Got compression?

7thgensurvivor

Yes, should be timed correctly. I checked TDC at the crank and cam about a thousand times.

Did a very thorough valve clearance adjustment as well before putting the cover back on.

Cam and crank sensors are connected.

Got compression? I think so? when I was turning the crank by hand after putting on the timing belt, I could feel the air coming from the spark plug tubes, and when I put my hand over the tube, it generated enough pressure to break the seal between my hand and the tube pretty easily.

I am pretty sure no fuel is getting into the system. I am thinking the ECU may not be powered, cause I didn't get any readings from my bluetooth OBD scanner. The scanner connected ok, but I don't remember seeing any temperature readings.

Guessing this means that the injectors aren't spraying and the plugs are not firing. Going to look for a blown fuse next.

By the way, when I put the key to position II, I noticed the normal lights on the dash including the engine symbol (check engine) which after a while went away, and then flashed three times. Going to see if I can lookup what this means.

7thgensurvivor

I remember when I started this job one of the first steps was to remove the fuel relay behind the glove box to ensure the fuel system was de-pressurized. I remember being confused about where the relay goes, and maybe I put it back incorrectly. Going to check this tonight

ezone

Both sets of ground wires bolted to the top by the thermostat housing??

"Got compression?" usually means doing real checking with a real compression tester.


The CEL flashing after having the key on for 15 seconds or so just means the computer has not completed all of its OBD2 monitors yet. If you live in an emissions testing area you can use this to tell if the car is ready to go to test or not.

7thgensurvivor

All fixed. The fuel pump relay behind the glove box was it. I never put it back in when I first relieved the fuel pressure. That was two months back, so I just forgot about it.

Engine sounds fantastic! A bit of a problem with throttle response as I futzed with the wrong nuts on the throttle and cruise control cables. When I let of the accelerator the RPMs drop to about 2k and then pop up to about 2250. Eventually idle falls to around 750 RPMs. Guessing I just have the throttle cable tension wrong.

Anyway, well on my way. Just need to get the hood and bumper reinstalled.

Hoping to figure out what is wrong with the airbag system. Sara's light is always on.

bsmiley

The seat belt buckle could be causing the SRS light. Is your car affected by the airbag inflator recall?

7thgensurvivor

Good guess bsmiley!

I followed the guide to read SRS codes found here: http://forums.clubrsx.com/showthread.php?t=636707

got a 9-3 code which is "faulty driver's seat belt buckle switch".

Called the dealership, and they said the replacement buck switch is covered under warranty. They said they would need to do an SRS system inspection which would be free as well.

What's funny (not really) is my vehicle was part of the SRS recall, and I took it to Morgan Hill Honda to get the airbag replaced. Upon picking up the vehicle, the SRS light was still lit. They told me I would need to schedule an appointment to have that looked at and there would be a $150 service fee to diagnose what was wrong. Amazing, I did it with a paper clip.

The dealership that I called today, and said they would inspect and replace under warranty was Capitol Honda in San Jose.

Once again, Morgan Hill Honda fails!

One more problem well on its way to being fixed!