greenlants

Hey everyone! Let me apologize up front for my lack of car repair knowledge. Before I started doing the work on my 2001 Honda Civic EX Coupe (155k miles), pretty much the only other thing I knew how to do was put gas in it, change the battery, coil wires, small stuff like that. I'm currently a delivery driver, so I really need to get this idling issue fixed so I can get back on the road safely!

So, here's what I've done so far...

First, once I noticed I probably shouldn't be driving it since it was idling so roughly, and the CEL was flashing, I took it to AutoZone so they could check for codes. The lady said there were no codes. I think she was using a smaller cheaper scanner, and that she might not know what she was doing... (not because she was a girl, just she seemed kind of unsure). So I started doing research online, not wanting/able to afford to spend a lot for someone else to do guesswork and fix it.

I started with small things. I changed the air filter. I went to go change the spark plugs and saw there was oil in the first 2 cylinders. I read up on that. With a friends supervision that knew about cars, I changed the valve cover gasket and spark plugs gaskets (not the ones under the rocker arms, I haven't gotten that brave yet!), and put in new spark plugs. That still didn't fix it...

Then I put 4 new ignition coils in today. Still didn't fix it. Took it back to AutoZone and the guy that helped me used a different scanner this time, and got 2 codes: P1298 and P0302. There were 4 suggestions as to what the cylinder 2 misfire might be. Knocking an easy one out, I put a can of SeaFoam in my gas tank after filling all the way up. Drove it for awhile, that still didn't fix it. Trying to knock the easy one out for the P1298, I reset the ECU fuse (drove for 10 minutes, took the fuse and backup out for 10 minutes, put back in, started car touching nothing for 10 minutes, turned car off, waited 2 minutes and started back). STILL not fixed.

The only things left on the paper print-outs for AutoZone that is suggests for the codes that I haven't tried are replacing the ELD (easy enough and only $28), or finding a vacuum leak. Some info on how it's idling... When I start it up and it's just sitting there idling, it's at about 650-700 rpms which is where I thought it should be. When I accelerate, the car seems to pick up speed well enough, and doesn't seem to have power problems driving at normal speeds. Then when I get to a stop light and sit there, that's when it starts idling roughly. Also, when I accelerate, when I get up to say 3000 rpms and let go of the gas, it drops VERY quickly, didn't know if that was a sign of an air leak or not. And when I sit in park at rev it up to 3000 rpms, it gets rough around 2000, and when I let go completely it almost seems to "dip" kinda under 500 before settling back up to 650-700.

Sorry if this turned into a novel, but I know how frustrating it can be when new people don't provide enough information (in-fact I know a few of you even know are yelling at the screen saying "why didn't you include _____!*@&$". Am I on the right track? Am I just throwing random money away at this point (though all the stuff I've done is maintenance, so I guess that's never a waste...). I'm just wondering if you guys think it's either the ELD or a vacuum leak, thinking of just doing the ELD since that looks quick and easy enough to see if that fixes it before moving on to the vacuum leak last!

THANKS!!!

Steven

Poopies

iTrader: (4)

Ha, no one can say you didn't give enough information now! Since there really aren't many hiding places for a vacuum leak to hide, spraying some throttle body cleaner or some slightly soapy water (avoiding the electronics of course) around the intake, intake manifold and throttle body might help you find it if it exists.
If you're on a preventative maintenance kick, you could also try cleaning the Idle Air Control Valve located on the TB. Here's a link: https://www.civicforums.com/forums/1...e-up-mods.html
I also wonder if the injectors are dirty...
I don't know about that ELD idea... I know electrical malfunctions can have widespread effects on the whole car though.

xRiCeBoYx

iTrader: (22)

replace the ELD (part number 38255-S5A-003). It's a $20 part and it takes a half hour to swap. Replacing that may clear up any electrical issues you may have.

Case in point, I got the P1298 code accompanied with a P1457 (fuel.. canister.. something..) and a P0420 (cat under efficiency threshold). I replaced the ELD, reset all codes, and none of them came back. I know the ELD is meant to regulate voltage (so your alternator isn't generating electricity 100% of the time or something like that, thus longer alternator life), but when it goes bad, it seemingly brings a slew of problems (or so I've seen in the forum's history).

https://www.civicforums.com/forums/2...-detector.html

https://www.civicforums.com/forums/3...d-problem.html
https://www.civicforums.com/forums/3...le-issues.html
https://www.civicforums.com/forums/3...ode-p1298.html

ezone

Wow. Lots of words and info, broken up into easy to read little paragraphs.....This is clearly not the correct forum for you!!!

Doesn't matter, I still can't read. That's why I park in the Handicapped spots.

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I'd ignore the ELD code for right now, save it for last.
The misfire is much more important IMO, as that can and will ruin the catalytic converter quickly.

I see #2 cylinder is probably a "dead hole".
You already tried throwing plugs and coils ($$$$) at the engine, so far nothing has stuck.


An engine must have compression, spark, and fuel in order to run.
In the correct amounts, and at the correct times.


Do a proper Compression test.

greenlants

I fixed it!!! (Somehow lol)...

I went to AutoZone today to pick up some Brake Fluid cleaner and another can of SeaFoam. When I got home, I was looking around to see where to spray the brake fluid, because I was kind of unsure at this point. So I was just poking around, and I noticed right by the oil dipstick, there was a little electrical connector just hanging there not plugged in. I plugged it in and the misfire was gone! I'm thinking this might also be why it threw off a P1298 too since there was a break in the electrical connection. The car FINALLY sounded really smooth, but the CEL was still on (though not flashing anymore). So I took the ECU fuse and Backup fuse out for 10 minutes and reset the idle. The CEL went away! I did my best to take pictures of the area it's in, it's still pretty hard to see since it's under a metal bar:




Thanks to everyone for your advice! Now that my car is fixed, I want to continue learning and do preventative maintenance so the car continues to run smoothly!!!

ezone

I can't see detail in the pic very well, but you are in the right place for a fuel injector connector. Glad it was so easy!

Poopies

iTrader: (4)

Congratulations on the simple fix!

ezone

Unsure, so am I.
WTF is this?
WTF is a brake fluid cleaner? In a spray bomb?
Got a link or a pic?


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"DOT 3 Brake Fluid" is the ONLY fluid that is to go in your brake fluid reservoir (same fluid goes in the clutch system if you have a manual trans).

Brake fluid will eat paint.
If you spill brake fluid on your paint, you simply rinse it off with fresh clean water to remove it. No need for any special cleaner, it's a waste of money.

greenlants

Oops, I think I just meant Brake Fluid. I thought maybe I had a vacuum leak and that was the only way I knew how to find it other than using a propane torch which I don't have and probably can't afford right now!

ezone

K.


With brake fluid??
Oh no no no no no.
Close the hood, step away from the car slowly.


wait...
Before I get all carried away, tell me what you would do with the propane torch to locate a vacuum leak?

Same for this one, how does one use brake fluid to locate a vacuum leak?