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I have a 2002 EX with a broken timing belt. I realize I may have some bent valves. My question is how do I now time it or align the camshaft gear and the crankshaft gear properly to put the belt back on. In addition what would be the best way to check for bent valves.

thanks any help is appreciated.

 
Rep Power: 518

I'd first remove the valve cover and timing covers.
Rotate the crank to 90 degrees away from TDC (this gets all pistons away from the valves).

Now the cam can be rotated without damaging any more valves.

Inspect valve clearances. (rotate cam for each cylinder and valves, etc. etc.) If any are EXTREMELY loose, those valves are probably bent.
If it got to that point, then I might pull the rocker shafts off and look for which valve stem tips sit lower than the rest. If valves are bent, then the head needs to come off.

If no valves are suspected of being bent, then align cam to proper marks, then rotate the crank 90 degrees to TDC again, install timing belt, and see if it runs.

If it runs well, then buy lottery tickets!

 
Rep Power: 186

Bummer man. I'm not sure if you bought it new or used, but owners manual says 84 months(7 years) or a 100,000 miles. If you bought it new...I'd put that on you, but if you bought it used...it's a crap shoot IMO.

I took my chances on mine and went eight years before I changed it. I bought mine brand new with 33 miles on it. Still kicking with 94K plus on it. ezone was nice enough to help me with the head gasket replacement.

 
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Thank you Ezone. So am I to assume that timing of the spark to the cylinders is decided by the ECU based on what the cam and crank sensors tell it?

 
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The PCM decides which coil to fire (#1, 3, 4 or 2) based on cam position sensor and crank position sensor inputs.

Actual ignition timing control for each cylinder is a bit more complex.

HTH

 
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Ok just got the time to inspect the valves, can you give me a bit more detail on how to rotate the cam in order to inspect the valves? And is there a specific order when pulling the rocker shafts off?

thanks I really appreciate all the help

 
Rep Power: 518

Sorry man, I tend to think as though I'm in the shop. I don't always think about what options most DIYers have available to them or how much time and work can go in to each step.....I can change that timing belt in an hour in the shop, my views are a bit different from most..

Retime it and put the new timing belt on first, install the crank pulley tight enough to turn it with a socket, then check the valves....It's probably much easier than me typing out alternate methods.

Another way might be to retime it and slide a new timing belt on, button it up far enough to crank it up, and see if it runs.
If it won't run at all or won't run right, then worry about the valves or do a compression check to see which cylinder(s) have problems.



So if you wanna check before trying to fire it up, with the new timing belt on and in correct time, now check the valve clearances as per a service manual.
Do not adjust any of them right now, you are only looking for any that are extremely loose.

If any are super loose, then go to the next thing...Pulling the rockers might be a step immediately before the head comes off, because the head gets stripped before it goes to the machine shop.

 
Rep Power: 512

When my TDC sensor decided it was hungry (the bolt holding the TDC sensor came loose, fell off, got lodged between the timing belt and.. something else, and ate 2/3 of the way across the cross section of the timing belt), I ended up replacing the timing belt, ensured proper timing, and it wouldn't start. Pulled the head and all 16 valves were bent.

My scenario happened while the car was running, then randomly shut off on me. If you had a same/similar situation, I'm sure you'll have a scenario like mine.

Just some food for thought.

 
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I don't have a service manual but it would probably be a good investment, which one would be the best in your opinion?

 
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Factory, of course!


I didn't look, but this might be close enough for your needs..

If it isn't, search the thread for what you need.

https://www.civicforums.com/forums/1...ml#post4647144

 
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what rpm were you at when it shut off?

 
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I know its been about a month but I'm finally ready to re-assemble. I sent the head out and had all the valves replaced. I have rotated the crank 90 degrees and all the pistons are out of the way. I have read with the 1.7 I should rotate the crank twice counter clockwise then put the belt back on once the head is reinstalled. This concerns me because won't the pistons hit the valves again? Can you give me a quick description on how to get it properly timed (once the head is on) in order to reinstall the timing belt?

Thanks again I really appreciate all the advice.

 
Rep Power: 367

?!?
did you place all the markings on the gears where they should be before torqueying the head in?!?

 
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NO NO NO STOP!

Why are you spinning the crank?

Absolutely correct. That will get even more expensive in a hurry, and cause 4 letter expletives to come out of your mouth.

At least you are thinking here!
You can't spin the crank a half revolution if there are valves in the way, they will be damaged. (head on, belt off)
You can move the crank either direction while the timing belt is not on. Once the timing belt is on, you are to only spin the crank CCW as viewed at the pulley. If you go the wrong way the belt can jump time.

If you will need to rotate the camshaft after setting the head on the block, then leave the crank turned so none of the pistons are at TDC. Do whatever you need to do, then set cam gear to its timing marks, then rotate the crank only 90 degrees back where it started (nearest TDC).

I completely assemble the head, and set all timing marks before installing the head. (I may even do the valve adjustments on the workbench too, depends on my mood.)
Put the head on, double check marks, slip the belt on.
Spin through minimum of one complete cycle (that's 2 crank revolutions, minimum) (SLOWLY AND BY HAND) and recheck marks.
Do it by hand so if there is any unusual sudden resistance you can stop before there is damage.
If you did it way wrong and hit the key to fire it up, you just wasted everything.




If I have the crank turned away from TDC for some reason, it goes right back where it came from. Do NOT spin it on through.
I keep track of where all pistons are (easy on a 4 cylinder engine, not easy when there are 6 or more) because it WILL bend valves if you spin the crank on around...

Don't rely on me for all this, I have lots of experience and I may skim over a lot of stuff simply because I assume others already know some things. I may lump a bunch of steps together as one step and take shortcuts that make others tremble in fear.


Did any of that make sense?
PLEASE get some real service information and use it.

 
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I didn't re-install the head yet. However my intention is to have the camshaft gear aligned properly while having the crank gear where #1 will be at TDC. Is this not the correct procedure?

 
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Ok so I will set the crank where it aligns with the mark on the oil pump housing. They align the camshaft according the markings and only then re-install the head. Once he head is on I will slip the timing belt on and rotate it two crank cycles CCW. If marking on the cam and crank are correct once rotated then I should assume I'm good to good correct ?

thanks again for all the help

 
Rep Power: 367

Pheeew! you scared the hell outta us...

yes, if both are on the right position, (head camshaft and crankshaft), it should be ok.

 
Rep Power: 518

Head is now bolted on at this point, right?
You sucked all the liquid out of all 10 head bolt holes in the block, right?

Yeah that procedure sounds ok to me.
Be careful about setting the head down in the right place since there are valves slightly open somewhere at almost any cam position.