Rep Power: 0

4-5 months ago my 2001 Civic EX 4 door automatic (112k) went into safe mode with engine light on, had it checked and the code 1361 was for the excessive cam shaft play per the TSB. I had just had the timing belt changes and replaced the O2 sensors, so I thought that may have contributed. It has run for a number of months just fine until this morning. I pulled out onto the highway and accelerated a little harder than I normally do, reaching up to arount 5k, then it shifted and got up to around 4k and the engine cut out for a split second, then engine light came on and the Maintenance Required light started blinking. I was a quarter mile from work, so I shut the engine off for 15 seconds or so while coasting, started it back up and made it to work. Usually, when the the car would go into safe mode, the engine would start right up and run fine after cooling off. Went to get into my car at lunch, and it reluctently started after cranking a lot more than normal, it started up in safe mode. I did notice that when I shifted from Neutral to Drive, it went "thunk" immediately, and the same from Neutral to reverse. An immediate "thunk" and slight jolt to the car in both directions. So now it seems there is a transmission issue as well. On a side note, the battery dash light had been on for 2 months or so, and it went out when this occurred. (I had the car checked and no battery issues were found - alternator charging as normal. I checked 13.x volts on battery all along.) Any help with this would be appreciated. Just wondering what would have caused this to happen. Is there any hope for this car? I'm about ready to donate it to the local trade school.

Main issue I'm concerned about is that even with the engine in safe mode, if I shift from Neutral to drive or Reverse, it immediately jolts the car significantly. Definitely not good.

The green key light flashed on the dash along with the flashing Maintenance Required. Does this sound like a powertrain control module issue? Would that make the car have the immediate jolt when shifting into gear from Neutral? Tomorrow, I will have car towed either to a mechanic, trade school for donation or junk yard for cash. I hope to find out what happened...can't dump any more money into this car - no more than a few hundred dollars or so.

 
Rep Power: 518

P1361 has never been defined as "excessive camshaft play" or "replace the cylinder head". It does not automatically mean the cam has walked and the head needs replaced.
P1361 only means the cam signal is intermittent. I have not replaced a single head for this code in my 10 years at this dealer.
The bulletin lists a set of VIN number ranges that are affected.




See if the alternator bolts were left loose. That can ruin the PCM.
Search this site for "loose alternator bolts"

https://www.civicforums.com/forums/3...ease-help.html

https://www.civicforums.com/forums/1...-no-power.html

 
Rep Power: 0

Thanks Ezone, I will check the alternator bolts. I did not get the P1361 code until after the timing belt was replaced...maybe a coincidence...

 
Rep Power: 518

See if it isn't plugged in all the way, like connector not latched.

 
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Thanks Ezone, I looked at my alternator connections at lunch, didn't have any tools, but pulled back the rubber covers and everything appeared OK.
Started the car up again, in "safe mode". The "Check Engine" light stays on, "green key" icon light on dash is flashing, "Maintenance Required" light on dash is flashing.
So is my PCM cooked? Should I try to have a diagnostic check done on this car? I read with these lights flashing, they can't read codes....also, tach was not functioning. Car still makes a nasty jolt when shifting from N to R or D while idling in "safe mode", which it has never done since I've had it. (got it with 105k, now 112k)
Thanks!!!

 
Rep Power: 518

Alternator MOUNTING bolts, not the wiring post. Did you read the links I supplied on the first reply?
And yes the PCM sounds like it is fried.
Fix the loose alternator bolts first, see if that fixes the rest of the problems.
If the alt bolts are tight, then check ground straps between battery/body/engine/trans.


The trans bangs into gear because the PCM has gone stupid.

Check the connector on the cam position sensor for the P1361 code ONLY.

 
Rep Power: 0

Thanks again for your help Ezone, you answered my main questions. I just paid 80 to have car towed back to my house - and the tow guy could not get a reading on my car, so I'll check the alternator bolts when I get home with some tools in hand. Thanks again for all your help and I'll read your posts more carefully. Reading all this at work, so I kinda have to read through it quickly - you know how that goes. Local import junk yard offered me 10 dollars per 100 pounds for my car if I drove it in to them, but they have several PCM's in stock, 150 tops, so I will buy one from them and get it fixed eventually. Love this little car, fun to drive and comfortable for this 6'-1" 265 pounder. Also, the ground straps are corroded pretty badly on this car that spent some time in CT, so I will need to replace them..

 
Rep Power: 518

I skim posts and miss stuff too. NBD?


Found a copy of the bulletin. Read carefully, it describes some/any/all of your symptoms: http://www.underhoodservice.com/issu...ontentid=88560


If you get a used PCM, it will need to be programmed by a dealer before the car will run at all. (If you have a well equipped locksmith that can program the immobilizer keys, he should be able to do it instead of the dealer. Dealer is the only game in my town though.)

Fix the alternator problem first so you don't fry another PCM.

 
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Ezone, thanks again for your help, links and advice! You have shown me what to do to get it going, and I plan start looking at it this weekend. Thanks again!

 
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Thanks for the input...I had issues with the same code, wondered if I had to replace the head...figured I would just replace the sensor ($42..or $84 when you wife throws away the first one you bought)...SO far so good...no more alarms, safe modes, etc. Oddly, it does seem to start a little easier, and this may be odd, but it seems to run a little cooler as well (don't think this makes any sense, so I am probably just rationalizing it since the thing only failed in the summer when it was hot.

Definitely replace the sensor before any talk of a new head....