HELP!02 civic starts up then RPM and Temp guage stop working and motor has no power
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Rep Power: 0 HELP!02 civic starts up then RPM and Temp guage stop working and motor has no power
hey guys im new to this site and i need your help!i hav a 2002 civic ex with a 1.7 vtec and when i start the car everything seems good for about 2 seconds THEN the RPM and temp guage stop working.also when i put it in gear and go to drive it the car has no power and will barely go over 2000rpm.i just recently had my boy do a headgasket on the car and now this problem has surfaced.....does anyone hav any suggestions?????
#2
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: HELP!02 civic starts up then RPM and Temp guage stop working and motor has no pow
If the alternator was left with loose bolts, it could fry the PCM.
Tighten up the alternator bolts properly first and see if that solves the problem.
If not, then it may have just got real expensive.
Search the forums for "loose alternator bolts".
HTH
Tighten up the alternator bolts properly first and see if that solves the problem.
If not, then it may have just got real expensive.
Search the forums for "loose alternator bolts".
HTH
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thanks for the response.i did check the alternator and even replaced it with a new one and made sure the bolts were tightened properly this time but the car is still doin the same thing.do you have any suggestions?and what would a PCM cost me cuz u said real expensive
#4
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: HELP!02 civic starts up then RPM and Temp guage stop working and motor has no pow
Why? The alternator itself wasn't the problem. (Unless it was a problem.)
So they weren't tightened properly before?
Seriously, answer this one. It's important.
If it was run with the alternator bolts loose, it could have fried the PCM from overvoltage.
Here, read the article on the first page
"Engine Won’t Start? Check
for Loose Alternator Bolts"
http://www.mediafire.com/?wzy1mnmdwrl
Lousy and limited running is part of the symptoms. So is the gauges acting all wrong, the gauges operate off of data info that comes from the PCM.
and made sure the bolts were tightened properly this time
So they weren't tightened properly before?
Seriously, answer this one. It's important.
If it was run with the alternator bolts loose, it could have fried the PCM from overvoltage.
Here, read the article on the first page
"Engine Won’t Start? Check
for Loose Alternator Bolts"
http://www.mediafire.com/?wzy1mnmdwrl
Lousy and limited running is part of the symptoms. So is the gauges acting all wrong, the gauges operate off of data info that comes from the PCM.
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i replaced the alternator because the kid that worked on my car had suggested that it was bad and thats why the PCM got messed up.BUT when i went to change the alternator the BOLTS WERE DEFINITLY LOOSE.so now that ive replaced the alt. and made sure the bolts are tight im looking to replace the PCM with a used one for $85.im told that i havto get the used PCM im buying reprogramed(flashed).so far am i on the rite track?
#6
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: HELP!02 civic starts up then RPM and Temp guage stop working and motor has no pow
i replaced the alternator because the kid that worked on my car had suggested that it was bad
It wasn't.
If he was an upstanding and professional business, he would owe you a running car.
and thats why the PCM got messed up.
Close, but technically no cigar.
BUT when i went to change the alternator the BOLTS WERE DEFINITLY LOOSE.
Like I suspected.
The alternator bolts left loose (lack of electrical grounding) caused the charging voltage to rise far above what the PCM could handle. PCM is now toasted.
If it had been caught early, it might have been saved. I have seen several that "made it out alive".
so now that ive replaced the alt. and made sure the bolts are tight im looking to replace the PCM with a used one for $85.im told that i havto get the used PCM im buying reprogramed(flashed).so far am i on the rite track?
Wow, that's cheap for a PCM. Hope it works.
Yes, you will need to get it to the dealer to get the Immobilizer programmed to work with the new-to-you PCM, and update the PCM software if possible.
Most likely you are looking at a dealer only job. Average shops aren't going to have the equipment to do this.
I'd tell you to arrange it beforehand with your dealer...
But
Save you a tow bill.
It will not run on the new PCM yet.
Swap the PCMs but leave the old one all connected (IF possible) so you can limp it to the dealers lot.
Park where they can push the car into the shop easily, make it easy for the guys that actually work for a living.
Connect the new PCM there before you give them the car. Let them make it all work.
Whip out your credit card, then drive home happy and $100 poorer.
If you have to let them swap the PCMs too, I'd expect maybe another Cnote for that labor.
HTH
It wasn't.
If he was an upstanding and professional business, he would owe you a running car.
and thats why the PCM got messed up.
Close, but technically no cigar.
BUT when i went to change the alternator the BOLTS WERE DEFINITLY LOOSE.
Like I suspected.
The alternator bolts left loose (lack of electrical grounding) caused the charging voltage to rise far above what the PCM could handle. PCM is now toasted.
If it had been caught early, it might have been saved. I have seen several that "made it out alive".
so now that ive replaced the alt. and made sure the bolts are tight im looking to replace the PCM with a used one for $85.im told that i havto get the used PCM im buying reprogramed(flashed).so far am i on the rite track?
Wow, that's cheap for a PCM. Hope it works.
Yes, you will need to get it to the dealer to get the Immobilizer programmed to work with the new-to-you PCM, and update the PCM software if possible.
Most likely you are looking at a dealer only job. Average shops aren't going to have the equipment to do this.
I'd tell you to arrange it beforehand with your dealer...
But
Save you a tow bill.
It will not run on the new PCM yet.
Swap the PCMs but leave the old one all connected (IF possible) so you can limp it to the dealers lot.
Park where they can push the car into the shop easily, make it easy for the guys that actually work for a living.
Connect the new PCM there before you give them the car. Let them make it all work.
Whip out your credit card, then drive home happy and $100 poorer.
If you have to let them swap the PCMs too, I'd expect maybe another Cnote for that labor.
HTH
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